1975 K-10 Project

[BBM3]

Project '75 K-10 Update Day 2:

Today I installed a new power steering pump, pressure and return lines, rag joint, and steering gear (box).
Huge positive improvement in steering performance.
Two minor regrets:
1) I found a quick ratio steering gear while surfing for other parts today. Too late.
2) I also found a rag joint rebuild kit that would have saved me $35. Too late.

Tie rod ends and damper are on the way for Saturday delivery. I'll have the front end aligned Monday.

Tomorrows to do list:
1) De-grease and pressure wash everything.
2) Pressure test cooling system. Flush and fill if pressure test is okay.
3) Compression test the "Mighty 350 4BBL".
2) Replace the turn signal assembly in the steering column.
(Someone dropped a Duce in the column. Figuratively not literally).

[LTZ C20]

Nice. A literal duce would be a big "drop" in moral. Pun intended.

[BBM3]

A Turd is a Turd no matter how well polished.
Whoever thought they knew what they were doing when "Fixing" my steering column was.......a Turd.

[LTZ C20]

That could not be a more true statement.

[BBM3]

For the record I am not complaining.
I thoroughly enjoy working on and adding a little shine to my 40 year old Turd.

[BBM3]

Since I last posted I have been pushing on.

I have replaced the following:

Tie rods
Steering damper
Rear main crank seal
Oil pan gasket
Valve cover gaskets
Oil pressure sensor (It was leaking like crazy at the crimp)
Engine oil and filter change
Pressure tested, flushed, and filled the cooling system.

Next up is replacing all suspension bushings.

I have a new manifold back dual exhaust system ready to install once I finish hunting and killing all oil leaks.

I am really enjoying trying to get this K10 back to as-built working order.

[BBM3]

Here are some pictures.

I think I solved the oil leaks.
The white towel has been on the floor all day after a test drive and no more pools of oil!
The other pictures are just to show I actually have this truck home.
I had a chance to try 4WD today in the snow. Much to my surprise everything works.




(The extra long mis-matched spark plug wires will be replaced)





No more oil leaks!

[LTZ C20]

Nice!

[BBM3]

Thanks LTZ C20.
Making progress.
As much as I hate too, I think I am going to have a local shop do the leaf spring and hanger bushings.
While they are at it I'll have them re-arch the rear springs. There is a limit to my tools and skills.

[LTZ C20]

There's nothing wrong with that. I've considered the same thing for the same parts. I built my engine by hand, slowly and meticulously. I let someone else build my transmission, but I stood there and watched the whole time. Learned a little too, that little has gone a long way.

[Don5]

That is a good looking truck. I am glad you are getting it sorted out. It should last you quite awhile.

[BBM3]

There's nothing wrong with that. I've considered the same thing for the same parts. I built my engine by hand, slowly and meticulously. I let someone else build my transmission, but I stood there and watched the whole time. Learned a little too, that little has gone a long way.

You are right some things are better left to the Pro’s.
I may still remove one side and give it a try.

That is a good looking truck. I am glad you are getting it sorted out. It should last you quite awhile.

Thanks. It should make it another 40 years if I get it right.

[LTZ C20]

Sometimes. I'm sure I could do it no problem, but sometimes it's more convenient to let someone else do it. Let them curse and swear when it's not going smoothly haha.

[BBM3]

I watched a number of YouTube videos. Most used a torch to burn the old bushings out but that still leaves the outer sleeve which requires a press or a DIY puller using a piece of pipe, all thread, washers, and nuts. Since I don't have a press I may try the DIY solution.
If I fail I have a great independent shop in town to bail me out.

[BBM3]

Maybe this will help someone in the future.
I had a major oil leak I thought was coming from the rear main seal.
Oil was dripping from the bottom of the flywheel inspection plate exactly where I would expect to see oil as a result of a bad rear main seal.
So I went ahead and replaced it. I turned out to be a good move and relatively simple except for the hour+ I spent removing the old cork oil pan seal from the block. What a messy pain in the butt.
The good news is that when I removed the oil pump I found the pump shaft coupling was cracked and literally blew apart when I touched it. The new Fel-Pro main seal included a new coupling. I know why.

Back to the leak(s).
Now I have a new main seal and one piece silicone pan gasket installed, start the engine and it still leaks from the inspection plate.
So I start looking from the top down. I should have done this first! Turns out the oil pressure sender next to the distributer was leaking at the crimp, not just a drip but a flood.

I learned something.
When tracking down an oil leak start at the top and work down.
In the long run it's all good. I have new seals, gaskets, an oil pump coupler and in the end my engine is now oil tight.