Author Topic: 1975 K-10 Project  (Read 147896 times)

Offline enaberif

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Re: 1975 K-10 Project
« Reply #30 on: February 17, 2015, 08:24:55 pm »
Get the metal oil pump drive and it elimates the plastic bushing all together. Mine plastic bushing was in 3 pieces when I pulled mine out.

Offline LTZ C20

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Re: 1975 K-10 Project
« Reply #31 on: February 17, 2015, 10:50:58 pm »
Yea those oil senders are leaky SOB's. Good work tho.
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Offline BBM3

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Re: 1975 K-10 Project
« Reply #32 on: February 18, 2015, 07:51:40 pm »
Get the metal oil pump drive and it elimates the plastic bushing all together. Mine plastic bushing was in 3 pieces when I pulled mine out.

If I rebuild the engine someday I will do that.


Yea those oil senders are leaky SOB's. Good work tho.

You've got that right.

Offline LTZ C20

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Re: 1975 K-10 Project
« Reply #33 on: February 18, 2015, 08:10:27 pm »
Replaced 3 of those things, 2 of which were about 2 months apart.
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Offline BBM3

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Re: 1975 K-10 Project
« Reply #34 on: February 18, 2015, 08:37:16 pm »
Good to know. I'll keep an eye on the new one.

Did you find something other than the original type sender that didn't leak?

Offline LTZ C20

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Re: 1975 K-10 Project
« Reply #35 on: February 18, 2015, 08:41:13 pm »
Yea, so far that one has been fine.
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Offline BBM3

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Re: 1975 K-10 Project
« Reply #36 on: February 18, 2015, 09:02:53 pm »
Do you remember what you are using?

Offline BBM3

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Re: 1975 K-10 Project
« Reply #37 on: February 18, 2015, 09:13:18 pm »
Last night I found three missing bolts from the engine mount crossover. Not good!
Picked up some grade 8 fasteners and installed them today.





Offline LTZ C20

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Re: 1975 K-10 Project
« Reply #38 on: February 18, 2015, 09:47:14 pm »
I've found a few loose down there before too. Not to mention the few that are loose up top.

The oil sender I used was for a 90s chevy truck. Has a 3 wire plug, got the sender and harness pigtail from work (GM dealer) only used 1 wire, the other 2 are a back up for the fuel pump on the vehicle it was design for. Had to get an adapter fitting from auto parts store. Been working good so far. My oil gauge is messed up, works the same as it did with the old style senders so I think the newer style is working good but the gauge it's sticky and doesn't move smoothly.
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Offline BBM3

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Re: 1975 K-10 Project
« Reply #39 on: February 18, 2015, 10:33:45 pm »
Thanks for the explanation. For now I'll just keep an eye on the new sender.
I'm confident the idiot light and sender work because when turn the ignition switch to "ON" it lights and when I changed the oil it lit for a second or two in "RUN" as oil pressure built up.

My lower frame to crossmember bolts were gone not just loose. The upper bolts are in place and tight.

I am going to tackle the fuel tanks / leaks / senders next. Would appreciate some help if needed once I drop the tanks.

Offline LTZ C20

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Re: 1975 K-10 Project
« Reply #40 on: February 19, 2015, 12:54:15 am »
Ok cool. Once you get those tanks dropped, post up whatever problems you have and we should be able to help.
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Offline BBM3

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Re: 1975 K-10 Project
« Reply #41 on: February 20, 2015, 03:37:09 pm »
Update:
I had the front end aligned today after replacing most of the steering system except ball joints which are still tight.
I was surprised how close my tape measure / eyeball alignment was.
My work has paid off. The steering is now perfect. Way over-boosted and almost no feedback but thats how they were designed 40 years ago.
The forecast is for a couple of feet of snow this weekend. Can't wait to play in the snow with 4WD!

Offline MannyDantyla

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Re: 1975 K-10 Project
« Reply #42 on: February 23, 2015, 11:36:51 pm »
Excellent score for that price. I bought a very similar 83 SWB 4x4 a few weeks ago for much more. I wish I had yours actually, lol

What size are the tires? Is that the stock height? You don't see that too often anymore, I like it

Offline BBM3

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Re: 1975 K-10 Project
« Reply #43 on: February 24, 2015, 12:08:05 pm »
Thanks Manny.

The tires are stock 235/75/15 and the suspension is original.
I am sure the rotted spring and hanger bushings are too.

Offline BBM3

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Re: 1975 K-10 Project
« Reply #44 on: February 24, 2015, 09:02:55 pm »
Made some progress yesterday and today.
Dash lights were not working. Pulled the headlamp switch and found the rheostat coil was broken and a couple of bulbs were blown.
While I had the cluster apart I cleaned and polished most of the fog and scratches off of the lens. Replaced the headlamp switch and everything is working.

I installed a clutch safety switch which had been removed by a previous owner.
I know most people get rid of them because they are prone to failure but I am far more concerned about someone, maybe my son or the guys at the alignment shop starting the truck in gear and crashing. I made a jumper I will keep in the glovebox if the switch fails.

Dropped the left fuel tank last night and found the leak. The sender has two outlets. One running to the selector and the other is open causing the fuel leak. My truck does not have evap. or return lines and everything clamps, hard lines, etc. look original.
Additionally the ground wire was broken which explains why the fuel gauge was at the 3 o'clock position.

So here is a question:
If I replace the sender with a single outlet how will air enter the tank to replace the volume of fuel displaced as it is used?
I assume the gas cap is supposed to be sealed at the filler neck?