Rear Drums won't come off

[srozell]

1980 k20 - I've drilled out the hold-down pins, slacked off the E-brake, removed the bearing retainer nut, etc.

The adjusting screw is seized up, and I'm not sure which way to spin it anyway.

Is there anything else I can do to loosen things up?

Am I missing something?

[Jason S]

Quite often, even with an operable adjuster,  it's difficult to remove the drums if there is a lip worn into the drum. 

You might try getting some PB blaster on the adjuster, let it sit and soak. Then try to get it to free up.

Short of that, I'm thinking you may have to pry the drum off...  Maybe some others will chime in with a better or more refined technique.

[LTZ C20]

Have you tried smacking the rear edge with a rubber mallet or a big hammer and a piece of wood.

[78BIG-TEN]

you might try removing the wheel cylinder screws and brake line,put a clamp on the hose to axle so you don't loose all your fluid

[srozell]

I've banged on it from behind, I've removed the wheel cylinder, (There's no brake fluid in the system anyway as I'm replacing all the brake lines), and I've tried prying the drum off.

I have the adjuster screw soaking already.

If I manage to get the screw moving, which way should I be moving it? I can never remember.

[ehjorten]

On the Star-adjuster, the adjusting lever is outboard of the star-wheel and prevents it from spinning backwards, or UP into the lever.  So...if you are accessing it from the backing-plate you want to move your brake adjuster tool so that your hand on the end of it is moving upward to back-off the adjuster (you should be moving the wheel downward)!  The adjusting lever is also preventing you from doing so!  You need to push it away from the star-wheel to allow you to rotate it.

[srozell]

Thank you so much!

I feel like an idiot, but I forgot all about the adjusting lever, so of course the star wheel seemed seized.

I finally got the drum off, and I'm glad I did. The grooves in the drum were deeper than the liner on the shoes.

[LTZ C20]

Good to hear you got it off. Not so good that it's grooved. Time for new drums.

[srozell]

Yep, I bought all new drums, shoes, internals, bearings, wheel cylinders and figured while I was at it I might as well replace the parking brake cable so i don't have to come back and visit this again any time soon.

Since 5 of the 8 bolts were glued into the hub with caulking, and I can't figure out where to get new hubs I have to put helicoils in the hubs as well.

With all new brake lines and hoses, about the only thing I haven't touched is the hydroboost.

[LTZ C20]

Wow good for you. Come do mine lol. Probably wouldn't be a bad time to do a rear end service either. Helicoils aren't bad, work uses them pretty frequently when we find stuff people have ruined.

[srozell]

Thanks for that.

I plan on servicing the pumpkins next.  I sure hope I have less surprises there than I had doing the brakes.

[ehjorten]

With your new brake hardware, make sure to check that the adjusting lever actually ratchets and prevents the star-wheel from back-spinning!  In my experience the replacement hardware is new and pretty, but the adjusting lever is hit or miss on the forming of it so that it actually works properly as well as looking new and pretty!

I have had to hand bend and massage the lever so that it actually works!

[srozell]

I'll be sure to double check that. Thanks!

[ehjorten]

And Torq Motorsports has new OEM 14-bolt hubs w/bearings and seal, but they are $761 a pop!  I would search the wrecking yards before I would pay that!!!

[srozell]

Wow! It's nice to know that stuff is out there, but they take themselves pretty seriously!