Getting a little fancy... 1987 V10

[frotosride]

I found a source for pakard connectors and repinned my new weatherpak harnesses into the OE fusebox bulkhead fitting. The 3-wire weatherpak pictured below is for Ignition1 (white key-on power) Fuel pump (blue +12vdc) Tach signal (green). the Headlight and fan harnesses are made in the same fashion. For the headlights, they recieve switching power from the OE switch which now has a weatherpak harness to the relay and then from the relay to the lights. I added a few extra Tach signal wires to the bulkhead connection (4k ppm, 129k ppm) as backups. The 4k pulse per mile is for any decent tach I may add later and the 129k is for potential cruise control. Both of these are generated by the PCM as outputs based on the initial programming.

[frotosride]

Time to take the engine back out and re-pin the inside of the fuse box as well as route a few more wires like the extra tach signals and starter solenoid switching power. That wire is easy to remember because from 1987 to at least 2003 it's still purple. Also it was time to completely re-pin the PCM...    Took a little time but they all got in the right place. You will also notice my grounding issue solved with a distribution box near where the old fuel pump relay mounted. It is a 3/8" center stud with 12 smaller studs circling it.



While the engine is out it's time to investigate the rust hole below the fuse box. Aside from the two pics below there is a large hole below the grommet that the vacuum line and OE cruise control harness enters the cab.

drivers floor board


Drivers Kick panel

[frotosride]

I stripped most of the drivers side firewall down to make an attemp at salvaging what metal I can and patching the rust. I will likely be using pieces from the K20 to fill these gaps. Then came time to put the engine back in so I did. Took me just under 6 minuets and I took it right back out to do this...



I figured if I am only putting the engine in to make sure if fires and my wiring was good to go, why not put everything in I needed to do the exhaust as well. I bolted the transfer case back together (completely empty) and bolted it to the trans with the new trans mount from energy suspension.

[frotosride]

IT'S ALIVE!!!!! Below is a link to the video of the first start-up of the LQ4 in the chassis. It wasn't the first attempt however. First I had a booboo with wiring 12vdc switching power to the fuel pump relay when I knew that the PCM supplied this (unlike the fans #1 &#2, it supplies ground). So i fixed that but still no priming. Checking for voltage drop led me to the bulkhead connector that has the black tar sealant on the contacts and then to the single wire connector that leads into the selector switch. Thankfully that was it and everything went well!
It started with open headers, no water and no alternator so I didn't run it for long. To be completely honest, the first time it fired up you hear it turn right back off and I said 'it scared me' well.... it scared me when it roared to life and I immediately turned the key off!! laugh if you must... I know I did

https://youtu.be/5dII3BJv8Mw

[frotosride]

Next up will hopefully be exhaust, I have enough to do a true dual 3" and maybe a balance tube in there somewhere. Also I really want electric cutouts. The cutouts may go in at a later point and I will post pics of all my current exhaust components when I get them off the shelves and out of the boxes.  I'm so freaking excited to finally be getting this done. I'm not completely set on true duals simply because of how close the passenger side will be to the transfer case and fuel lines. If I do go that route I will just make longer heat shields for the inside of the frame rails.

[VileZambonie]

Use a dual exhaust crossmember for added clearance. PS the Delphi weather pack and metri-pack kits are a must have.

[frotosride]

Use a dual exhaust crossmember for added clearance. PS the Delphi weather pack and metri-pack kits are a must have.

If this were a 2wd I could see using the dual exhaust crossmember. I cannot see the benefit in this application only less room to run more pipe. You know of one that will work with this and keep my passenger pipe above the frame rail?

Two things that drive me crazy are crappy connectors and open power supply buses like on a Polaris ATV. Weather pack are affordable especially when you consider the potential loss of major electronics...

[bd]

Don't discount Deutsch, either, or the Amphenol compatibles/equivalents.

[frotosride]

Don't discount Deutsch, either, or the Amphenol compatibles/equivalents.

True, I for one do not like re pinning amphenols but they are sturdy and seal in some very harsh environments. The Deutsche are the same style as the Computer harness and are very nice I haven't ordered any for my projects for some reason....

[frotosride]

It's been a while since I've been able to do anything,so I needed some motivation. Waiting on some 45* bends to hopefully finish out the exhaust.


https://photos.app.goo.gl/X7shSG2ATV2x7zfX8

[frotosride]

Exhaust is almost complete! H-pipe is done, mufflers aren't welded yet and I haven't made turn downs but it does sound good. I still have a little bit of work to do but hopefully it'll be done soon.
https://youtu.be/_Bi758HTkJY

When/iGotta put the gears back in the transfer case, hook up the trans kick down cablefit the radiator, put the core support back in, put torque converter in. And tidy up the wiring

[Mike81K10]

I noticed you have the transmission crossmember with the exhaust holes and you ran your exhaust above them. Is there a reason you did not run the pipes under the support through the holes. I am asking because I want a true duel exhaust system and I have a straight transmission crossmember. However, I bought one from a salvage yard like the one you have on your truck thinking I needed it for the duel exhaust, maybe I don't need to use it if I can run the exhaust above it.

[frotosride]

The only reason I went above the cross member is for looks. There's not a single place where you can see the exhaust without getting under the truck. I wanted to keep it high and clean. Plus if I ever take it off road to some sketchy stuff, it won't get knocked off. Originally, the driver's side was the only one designed for exhaust clearance. I figured if I could get 3" around the transfer case on the passenger side it was ment to be.

[frotosride]

Well, as with all projects time and money rule!
This one has mostly been time. So far I have rebuilt the transfer case. Including making a annulus bearing remover using the lathe and turning down a outer front wheel bearing race.
Engine and trans are back out for rust repair (this begins the snowball effect). Steering/Brake booster brace is removed.
Vintage air kit has fully arrived.
I'll post pics of everything when I figure out how to do it with my phone because I don't use any computers.

[Shifty]

Thanks for the updates Frost!