Getting a little fancy... 1987 V10

[frotosride]

This was my original color scheme but I don't like it so I changed it up a bit...

[frotosride]

This is what it looks like now. I just uses a "Cast Aluminum" color on the heads plus the coil mounts as well but they are not in the pic. Hopefully I will be firing it up soon. Last things for the swap are Flexplate and exhaust manifolds/headers. I'm going to do the break in on the run stand so if there are any issues I can solve them before dropping it in the truck.

[LTZ C20]

looks pretty good.

[frotosride]

Runstand TIME!! All I'm really waiting for to start this is modifying my pre-lube tank with a true external oil filter which, I already have minus fittings. I think that cast aluminum paint for the intake was a good idea.

[Captkaos]

Nice work!

Chris Lucas
73-87chevytrucks.com
squarebody.biz

[LTZ C20]

I wouldn't have thought to paint the intake but since you did, it makes the whole thing look great.

[Captkaos]

If you want here is how to shave a truck intake

https://youtu.be/cg9bc2vJL9A

Chris Lucas
73-87chevytrucks.com
squarebody.biz

[frotosride]

If you want here is how to shave a truck intake

https://youtu.be/cg9bc2vJL9A

Chris Lucas
73-87chevytrucks.com
squarebody.biz

I've seen a few of these and thought about it but as of now I plan on running all the factory covers since I do have them. It may change later down the road but I doubt it because I do not feel like doing all that work on top of wanting the newer ls3 style heads at some point.

I wouldn't have thought to paint the intake but since you did, it makes the whole thing look great.

It was a shot in the dark for me as well. the intake looks a lot shiner than it actually is. I uses a high build sandable primer so most of the actual texture is covered up but in person it truly looks cast aluminum. I'm working on an exhaust for the runstand right now so I can hear the engine and hopefully appease my neighbors and surrounding communities.

[frotosride]

So I pulled all the covers out of the attic last night. I doubt I will be using all three of them if any at all. they just cover up so much and may block any possible problems. We will have to see when the engine is sitting under the hood.

[LTZ C20]

If you want here is how to shave a truck intake

https://youtu.be/cg9bc2vJL9A

Chris Lucas
73-87chevytrucks.com
squarebody.biz

I've seen a few of these and thought about it but as of now I plan on running all the factory covers since I do have them. It may change later down the road but I doubt it because I do not feel like doing all that work on top of wanting the newer ls3 style heads at some point.

I wouldn't have thought to paint the intake but since you did, it makes the whole thing look great.

It was a shot in the dark for me as well. the intake looks a lot shiner than it actually is. I uses a high build sandable primer so most of the actual texture is covered up but in person it truly looks cast aluminum. I'm working on an exhaust for the runstand right now so I can hear the engine and hopefully appease my neighbors and surrounding communities.

lol oh cool.

[LTZ C20]

So I pulled all the covers out of the attic last night. I doubt I will be using all three of them if any at all. they just cover up so much and may block any possible problems. We will have to see when the engine is sitting under the hood.

which covers do you have?

[roundhouse]

I flipped the fuel rail so the lines would be pointing forward on the passenger side to match where I had the old TBI lines

Used an ID plate I scavenged from a old coal power plant to cover up where i shaved off the box on the stock air intake tube

Don't have any pics of the fuel rail flip
You have to use a sawzall and a dremel to remove a few tabs on the intake

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[frotosride]

I know it has been some time (a few days) since I last updated this thread. Fortunately, I did finish the engine and I though I posted a video of it running after complete assembly. I read through this thread so I would be as up to date as possible. After starting the engine I realized that I didn't do run-out on the crank. As you may guess, the snout was bent from the PO sending the frame rail and gear box into the balancer. So i got a remaned crank from Summit with appropriate bearings. That started a fire because if you remember I just started out doing a budget built and used torque to yield fasteners all around. I quickly got over that and ARP to the rescue. Studded top and bottom end, decided a new cam should make me feel better about taking it apart again. Enter the Summit SUM-8701 cam 218/227 (278/287) @.050 307/308 lift (.523/.524 1.7 R:R) 112LSA. The engine is and has been back together (for a while) and ran several times on the runstand featured in the earlier part of this thread. With the the wilder cam the PCM isn't happy once the engine gets some head in her but it sounds awesome. I will try and post a video of it running on the stand before and after the bench tune and before I stab it into the truck. Then If I can film at the DYNO I will put that up as well. I'm sure I can because it is surely free advertising! I'm sure this would go quicker if i had any help but in the last two days (working when I can) i have pulled the core support, transfer case, engine and trans. I am not going to try and post every pic I took but I will put up a link as that seems to be the best thing for my threads. It's google drive so don't worry it's a safe link. If you have any questions about what you see let me know.

**I found a way to post pics but can only load 1000 pics as of now unless i pay, which i may do. Until I make up my mind on that I will keep the google photos up to date. also there will be several photos there for my memory purposes and your reference...Enjoy! 
https://photos.app.goo.gl/ceiXHQHm2d381iEb7

[frotosride]

At the  current end of the Photo Library you will see a few things. I'm sick and tired of throttle shifting to neutral every 4-6 years. I decided that energy suspension engine and transmission mounts were a must. Also a rebuild kit for the NP208. There's a sway bar kit from them as well but I doubt I will ever put it back on. And finally another intake Manifold. For those that are familiar with it, Trailblazer Super Sport(TBSS) intake from an '09 TBSS that I got from a coworker who swapped an LS7 in the 6.0L hole. I really want to install this because it is already in the garage and has gains over the stock truck intake as well as many high end aftermarket manifolds ( https://youtu.be/6Ejbwy0srmY  ), especially for a truck and large tires. I mean look at those torque curves plateaus. I'm obviously not building this exact engine so gains will not be that high however, if you've seen one LS dyno curve you've seen them all, just raise the the lines higher for displacement and boost.  But it will require some thinking. I do not want to go to the filter regulator as with most newer cars and the easy swap method. I am a fuel rail regulated, return system kind of guy for reasons... I will check and see if the truck rails will fit the TBSS manifold. Since i have an extra set of injectors (EV6) I may decap them (for greater flow) and make or buy a harness adapter to keep the original height of the rail. Either way you will also see the 4-bolt to 3-bolt TB adapter from ICT Billet as well as a oil bypass plate with 1/8th npt.  Trying the pic thing again, Can anyone see it?

[frotosride]

First thing on the list today is the ORD cross-member. There are 3 holes that have to be drilled and one rivet hole on the passenger rail that has to be enlarged to 7/16. keeping the engine mount plates loose helped to get everything lined up properly. in the pics the mount isn't tightened because it needs to be painted before final install. I used the OE hardware for mock-up so i didn't damage the self locking nuts that came with the kit.



Next was labeling the wiring. Most people hate this part but it's kinda relaxing to me. Plus I have to actually use m,y brain to remember what is what. I know this harness and the LS harness like I should know God's word (something in progress as well).
The only one I got hung up on was actually wrapped up in the harness. I think it was the original Smog pump wiring that I tucked away many years ago.



Looking at the bulkhead connector it seems like I may have had some resistance issues!? I haven't actually inspected it thoroughly because I was summoned to get in the house.



I have unwrapped all the needed wiring in the engine bay and disconnected the fuse box bulkhead connector. Next will be unpinning the power supply wires from the bulkhead connector (that power the ECM, sensors and coil), dismounting the ECM, and pulling all wiring through the firewall. I intend on putting the LQ4 PCM in the OEM location and have modified the harness to do so. My harness doesn't meet my quality standards but it is perfectly functional. I may just wrap it and keep it...or I may buy one that looks more awesomer! And just keep this as a run-stand only harness.