84 Crew Cab Roof Removal, need help with rear seam above rear window

[srodster]

Don't ask why at the moment, but I need to get some help from someone that has removed the outside roof skin on an '84 Crew Cab.  I have cut all the spotwelds and the front is loose enough to lift up about 5 inches.  However, the seam above the rear window appears to have been reverse spot welded, or the seam are faced inward, or it slides into a groove......not sure.  Just need to figure the correct way to remove it.

I have some photos for reference.  The short seam along each edge at the back appears to be tack welded......., I haven't messed with it yet, as I hope someone can help.  Maybe someone has played around with one, and can provide advise.

[HAULIN IT]

Cut the roof skin off from the rear corners along the back a 1/2" or so above the seam & get the roof out of you way then you can work on the seam from there. I would suggest metal glue for installing the new one. Lorne

[srodster]

I noticed there is a narrow panel on the inside of the roof, (part of the inner skin) that is only maybe 9 inches wide, that runs from corner to corner across the back, and is spot welded into the top the back glass housing.  I was thinking of cuting those spot welds and removing that particular panel to expose the seam I need for the roof.
I have attached a couple photos of the panel.
Make sense?

[srodster]

Ok, a little ambitous today.  I got the section cut out, so now I can access the "C" rail on the inside that has the spot welds to get to the seam above the back window.  Almost there......, job for next weekend.

[HAULIN IT]

I guess I'm confused...Are you throwing that roof away or is that the donor one? That sure seems like a  bunch of extra work. Does your truck have a headliner? Lorne

[srodster]

No, the piece laying on the ground is what I had to cut out from the rear inside to access the spot welds above the back window to remove the roof.  So, now I will cut the spot welds out on the "C" channel seam, and lift the roof off.  Then I will rhino line the inside layers of the roof and celing, and also install a sunroof with drain tubes that will be sandwiched by the panels.

[HAULIN IT]

Don't ask why at the moment, but I need to get some help from someone that has removed the outside roof skin on an '84 Crew Cab.

Based on the way you started this post & the fact that what you are doing makes NO sense to a guy that has changed many roofs leaves me guessing...So you cut a perfectly good roof off of a truck, cut some of the inside of the cab out all to install a sunroof & then are going to re-install the same roof skin...Is that what I'm making of this?

Hmmm, & to think...I went to the GM dealer & bought a new roof skin & installed it on my 4x4 truck to get rid of the sunroof installed by a previous owner...Guess thats what makes the world go 'round. Lorne

[srodster]

Actually, there is more to it, but that was just the basics for what is allowed on this thread.  So, the good news, I will have it off this weekend, and then I can go ahead and actually put some acoustics barrier in it, like a sandwich to make it quieter too.

Any pointers on reattaching it, or if you have some photos, let me know.  I would love to see them.  Thanks.

[fitz]

Did you cut the roof off of your truck to add a sunroof and sound deadening material?  Am I missing something?

[srodster]

There is a little more, but those are the basics.  (I was bored, ha...)
I'll send photos when I reattach it, but would like to know what tricks others may have used to reattach....., Tig or Mig the inside seams?  I don't have a spotwelder.......

[fitz]

I would glue it like Haulin IT said

[srodster]

Any particular brand or part number for it?

[srodster]

Does anyone have experience with the 3M™ Panel Bonding Adhesive, 200 mL, 08115 used to adhere panels?  Or a similar one?
http://3mcollision.com/3m-panel-bonding-adhesive-08115.html

[HAULIN IT]

Care to explain: "the basics for what is allowed on this thread"? This is so silly I can't help but ask. Allowed by who? Why?      I've not used the 3M brand. There are several companies on the market. The one I've always used is Fusor...it's in a dual cartige package like the one shown using the same gun I believe. There are different drying time formulas & I would advise you use a slower one for a roof that size, especially if it's warm/hot where your using it. On the sides where you don't have any good way to clamp the skin...use a self tapping screw w/ washer in a few of the holes you made taking off the original spotwelds. Lorne 

[Irish_Alley]

i think what hes implying was he plans on doing more but wants to create a new thread with a different title for his build