73 C20 Performance Engine Build

[LTZ C20]

Oil leaks aside and all...

WHAT IN THE NAME OF THE GREAT SCOTT IS THIS CRAP!?!?

[bd]

OUCH!!!  That's a bummer LTZ!   

A little more information, if you please...
Describe the metallic looking trash huddling around that center head bolt.  Have you determined exactly where it came from?  More questions: ( 1 ) What are the valve retainers-to-rocker arms clearances?  ( 2 ) How high did you rev the engine (be honest)?  ( 3 ) Are any of the pushrods bent?  ( 4 ) Are the valve springs correctly matched to the cam?  ( 5 ) Did you check for coil and retainer bind during setup?  ( 6 ) The valve train geometry appears "off" (as in way off center) - did you check rocker sweep across the valve tip with a dial indicator and dye to optimize pushrod length?  ( 7 ) What was the oil pressure running?  ( 8 ) Was the top end adequately pre-lubed during assembly?  ( 9 ) Did you align the pushrods and check the torque on the rocker studs during assembly?

[LTZ C20]

OUCH!!!  That's a bummer LTZ!   

A little more information, if you please...
Describe the metallic looking trash huddling around that center head bolt.  Have you determined exactly where it came from?  More questions: ( 1 ) What are the valve retainers-to-rocker arms clearances?  ( 2 ) How high did you rev the engine (be honest)?  ( 3 ) Are any of the pushrods bent?  ( 4 ) Are the valve springs correctly matched to the cam?  ( 5 ) Did you check for coil and retainer bind during setup?  ( 6 ) The valve train geometry appears "off" (as in way off center) - did you check rocker sweep across the valve tip with a dial indicator and dye to optimize pushrod length?  ( 7 ) What was the oil pressure running?  ( 8 ) Was the top end adequately pre-lubed during assembly?  ( 9 ) Did you align the pushrods and check the torque on the rocker studs during assembly?

Metallic looking trash is some Permatex Right Stuff that came apart when I pulled the cover off.

1- um not sure?? Would this be lash?
2- honestly, highest it's been is 3500, one time. Under normal driving, 3000.
3- nope not even that 1.
4- yes, verified by summit racing technical assistance
5- do you mean coil spring and valve retainer bind? If so then no, heads came pre-assembled
6- umm kinda sorta. I found proper pushrod length by following the steps outlined in the summit quick flicks instructional video on finding pushrod length.
7- about 60 psi
8- yes
9- not sure what align the rods means, align them with what? Check torque on studs, no. Was I supposed too?

This is only my second engine so I'm sure that I may have missed a few things. I know I learned way more the second time then I did the first time.

I think that, in my limited knowledge, the rocker arm nut just came loose. I researched this and it appears, based on what I saw, the crimp on the nut lost its hold and the nut rattled loose. It did not ruin or damage anything, just ran like it w as missing a cylinder. I got it fixed tho, went to auto parts store, picked up 6 extra nuts ( all they had in stock, .99 cents a piece), also got new gaskets and some more Right Stuff. No broken or busted parts found, all checked out good. Reassembled, rotated engine over and set proper lash, put it all together. So far no leaks (Knock on wood) and running great, like it never happened.

[rich weyand]

Did you check the pushrod for straight?  Easiest is to roll it across a flat surface....

[LTZ C20]

Did you check the pushrod for straight?  Easiest is to roll it across a flat surface....

Yep, it's good.

[enaberif]

Holy geezus I'd be replacing all those nuts just for peace of mind! That is nuts.

[enaberif]

Aligning push rod to rocker simply means ensuring the ball on the pushrod sits in the cup on the rocker.

[LTZ C20]

Holy geezus I'd be replacing all those nuts just for peace of mind! That is nuts.

I was goin to but didn't have the time or enough nuts. Parts store only had 6 so I just did the 1 that came loose. I did not see any evidence of others coming loose. Plus I gotta be able to drive this every day.

[LTZ C20]

Aligning push rod to rocker simply means ensuring the ball on the pushrod sits in the cup on the rocker.

Oh ok. Yea did that.

[bd]

Good to hear it's that simple.  Your opening comment combined with reflections off the oil coating the retainers and debris implied something more serious.  Good joke, LTZ!  You had me questioning whether the spring retainers had actually hit the bottoms of the rockers, even though your valvetrain combination is very conservative.  lol

Just to settle two questions that I raised (not necessarily something you need to do):  (1) A little graphite spray or Prussian blue lightly smeared on the valve tip will wipe away as the rocker moves through its full range of motion.  The resulting witness mark should be centered across the valve tip.  This verifies whether the pushrod length is correct.  (2) pushrod guide plates typically can be adjusted laterally for best alignment of the rockers to the valve tips while preventing the pushrods from dragging the head casting.  It's a limited adjustment that already may be near perfect from the manufacturer.  Double checking rocker stud torque is good practice and often recommended by head manufacturers.

I agree with replacing all the nuts.  Why run the risk of taking it apart again?

[LTZ C20]

Ok. I understand. I will have to find some more nuts first. I would like to be able to go a week or so without having to touch that engine. I guess we will wait and see.

[enaberif]

Ok. I understand. I will have to find some more nuts first. I would like to be able to go a week or so without having to touch that engine. I guess we will wait and see.

Well I want you to think of it this way. This time you were lucky and didn't damage anything. The next time you could take out a rocker, pushrod and maybe a lifter. Willing to take that chance?

[LTZ C20]

Ummmm no.

[LTZ C20]

I'm happy to report that the truck has been running good and all is well, knock on wood lol.

[fitz]

Still running good?