Dual exhaust?

[MEXICANKAMIKAZE]

I have a 79 c20 350 I want to improve flow of truck overall I'm taking the stock fan out for an electric and new intake but I have a question once I get to headers and exhaust. So I've been reading that it's all about torque with these trucks and that's probably the way I want to go so would short headers be the better option and also I want a dual exhaust system I seen a hooker dual exhaust kit on jegs and I want some hooker headers as well. Does anyone have any tips on installing dual exhaust systems and what your opinion is on this topic.

[enaberif]

Long tube headers and dual plane intake for torque. I wouldn't worry about the electric fans unless your dead set on it.

[MEXICANKAMIKAZE]

Yea I kinda want an electric fan to free up some hp and also if the belt was to ever break I wouldn't want to replace the radiator. So long tube headers? I thought they produced more ho than torque and also I don't think long tube headers can work with my stock exhaust

[enaberif]

Yea I kinda want an electric fan to free up some hp and also if the belt was to ever break I wouldn't want to replace the radiator. So long tube headers? I thought they produced more ho than torque and also I don't think long tube headers can work with my stock exhaust

Why would you need to replace the radiator if a belt broke? Belts have nothing to do with that.

Your going to have to mod the exhaust regardless if you want to do dual exhaust.

[MEXICANKAMIKAZE]

yea. The fan is crap and can destroy my radiator if belt snapped that's why.

[enaberif]

yea. The fan is crap and can destroy my radiator if belt snapped that's why.

No and No.

[MEXICANKAMIKAZE]

Dude you are what is wrong with This world man I'm just gonna leave it at that and leave this post alone

[bd]

Headers and a free flowing exhaust will return an improvement in torque across the RPM range.  Although long-tubes provide improved torque over shorties, you won't be able to 'feel' a difference between long-tube and shorty headers on a near stock engine, so either will suffice.  It is difficult to go wrong with Hooker.  However, any header you choose will likely require at least some modification of the exhaust, so purchase the headers according to best fit and what is in compliance with your budget.  If you decide to replace the complete exhaust system, be modest on the exhaust pipe diameter; stay with 2.25" - 2.5" and use an H-pipe and low backpressure mufflers.

If the fan you have is in such sorry shape that it might break apart from the slap of a broken belt, replace the fan with a better one (most cost effective).  Or, upgrade to electric fans and full custom shroud as you suggested (considerably more costly).  A puller fan mounted on the engine side of the radiator will generally provide better performance than a pusher fan mounted on the grille side of the radiator, but either will do the job if the fans are rated for adequate air flow.  We have several members who have installed them and posted write-ups - do a search.

[ehjorten]

yea. The fan is crap and can destroy my radiator if belt snapped that's why.

That is like saying that people die from not wearing seatbelts!  What enaberif was trying to convey is that your fan is not attached to the engine by a fan belt.  It is attached by bolts through your waterpump pulley and into the flange on the waterpump shaft.  If you belt breaks, the fan will not fly off!  It will stop spinning and you will cease to pump coolant through your cooling system.  If your fan flies off the waterpump from a broken belt you have much bigger problems!