No blinker

[454c10]

On my 1986 gmc c10 i cut the factory front blinkers so i could put leds but i hooked up the 3 wire led and the dont work why

[bd]

It doesn't light up at all, or it lights up but doesn't flash?

[Irish_Alley]

one thing to do is put a test light on each wire to make sure youre getting power to 2 of them. slight chance but if you mix the ground wire up with a power wire you would ideally blow the fuse and they wont work

[454c10]

Well the stock ones worked and i put a older styl bulb they work but not with the leds so

[Irish_Alley]

so after replacing the socket you put the old bulbs back in and they still worked?

[454c10]

Yea i cut the thing that hold factory then figured wire led with the three wires should work the same but  no

[Irish_Alley]

i would test the bulb

[shaggy72]

I may be wrong but I was told led's don't pull enough current to heat the flasher up and cause it to kick out and make the lights blink.

[Irish_Alley]

the flash will flash faster almost like you have a bulb out. simple fix is getting one of those electric flashers (made out of smoked plastic)

[bd]

the flash will flash faster almost like you have a bulb out. simple fix is getting one of those electric flashers (made out of smoked plastic)

This is true only in the newer body styles of the RV, CK design changes.  The newer CK turn signals will flash rapidly if a bulb is out or LEDs are substituted for filament bulbs.  The older RV body styles used thermal flashers, which respond differently to load.  Thermal flashers require a minimum current load to flash at all.  LEDs don't provide the necessary load so remain on.

Irish, ALL flashers are "electric."   

The "electronic" flashers to which you refer use an oscillator circuit and relay to flash rhythmically regardless of current load up to ~20 amps.  But, an electronic flasher still relies on current flow through the load (LEDs) to ground to complete the flasher oscillator circuit.  Special LED flashers also use an oscillator and relay, but have their own dedicated ground wire separate from the load, so current flow through the load is irrelevant.  So, shaggy72 is correct.

[Irish_Alley]

Irish, ALL flashers are "electric."   

yeah yeah lol
but they dont make the electronic flashers to replace the thermal that would fix this?. i know we did it on a 2001 chevy that we put a utility body on and led lights

[bd]

Irish, ALL flashers are "electric."   

yeah yeah lol
but they dont make the electronic flashers to replace the thermal that would fix this?. i know we did it on a 2001 chevy that we put a utility body on and led lights

 

The "electronic" flashers to which you refer use an oscillator circuit and relay to flash rhythmically regardless of current load up to ~20 amps.  But, an electronic flasher still relies on current flow through the load (LEDs) to ground to complete the flasher oscillator circuit.  Special LED flashers also use an oscillator and relay, but have their own dedicated ground wire separate from the load, so current flow through the load is irrelevant.

One LED typically draws in the range of 30 milliamps (0.03 amp).  An assembly of 10 LEDs, such as might substitute for an 1157 brake/tail bulb, would draw 0.3 amp.  An 1157 bulb draws ~2 amps.  It would take 7 LED bulbs to match the current draw of one 1157 bulb.  Do you see the problem?  If there are enough LEDs in the circuit to provide the needed current flow, a garden variety 2-prong 'electronic' flasher will work.  But, when there are too few LEDs, there isn't sufficient current flow for an electronic flasher to flash.  In this case, an LED-specific flasher that has the dedicated ground lead must be used.  OR, the LED bulbs must be shunted with resistors to provide the needed current flow.

[Irish_Alley]

we must have used a led flasher. it we a couple years ago when we put the body on i know at first the they flashed fast but my buddy got a new flasher (i thought it was the electronic one) and it fixed it. ill try to remember so next time