Blown Head Gasket?

[theaddictedchef]

Hey guys....been a while since I posted and I've had some significant health problems over the past few months. 
I bought a 350 crate engine.  After install and some work, I ran it for 20 mins at 2000 rpm.  I drove it from the garage where I did the work to my house (2 miles), and when I pulled in, I noticed white smoke from the exhaust. 
I pulled the radiator cap and while running, the fluid was bubbling.  Pulled the spark plugs from the right side, and no moisture from the cylinders....not that I could see anyway. 
I added two pictures before and after photos. 
Is there something I can do to determine whether it's a head gasket or a crack in the block/cylinder wall?
The temp never got above 190, and I have not driven it more than three miles since the new engine went in. 
I know it's hard to diagnose without seeing it, but looking for any input. 







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[enaberif]

you would need to pull the heads and inspect unfortunately

[Irish_Alley]

you can test the antifreeze for exhaust gasses, i know you said it was bubbling but it could of just appeared that and if your exhaust gases got to the antifreeze it should of ran warm and at what point (engine temp) did you remove the cap?

[bd]

First - don't tear the engine down until you contact the engine supplier for instructions or you will void any warranty!

Second - If you receive authorization from the engine supplier to diagnose and report, I encourage you to remove all of the spark plugs and run a compression check and/or cylinder leak-down test before tearing the engine apart.  Low cylinder pressure will verify whether you actually have a cylinder leaking while identifying which cylinder(s), so you know where to focus your attention.

[theaddictedchef]

Thank you bd.  Talked to the manufacturer earlier and they gave me the green light to remove the heads.  In addition, he is over - nighting a gasket pack. 
It's a hassle but I'm closer than I was. 
Thanks for the advice!

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[theaddictedchef]

Irish, I removed the cap after it was at operating temp.  Had a difficult time with that too.

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[Dr_Snooz]

Am I the

Talked to the manufacturer earlier and they gave me the green light to remove the heads.  In addition, he is over - nighting a gasket pack. 

Am I the only one who finds it strange that the rebuilder would want the end customer to tear down and diagnose an engine that he supposedly built carefully and tested before sending out the door? I'm not a rebuilder, but I'd at least want numbers from a compression test and a leak down test before agreeing to have the customer fix my problem. Seems like he's asking you to bail him out. Just my $0.02.

Hope you get well soon.

[bd]

...Seems like he's asking you to bail him out.

It's not uncommon practice if the builder isn't local.


@ theaddictedchef

Second - If you receive authorization from the engine supplier to diagnose and report, I encourage you to remove all of the spark plugs and run a compression check and/or cylinder leak-down test before tearing the engine apart.  Low cylinder pressure will verify whether you actually have a cylinder leaking while identifying which cylinder(s), so you know where to focus your attention.

Take your time and pay attention to everything.

I wish you a speedy recovery, as well.

[Irish_Alley]

did you get sprayed with coolant when you removed the rad cap?

[theaddictedchef]

I did get sprayed with coolant.  I didn't enjoy that one bit. 

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[Irish_Alley]

Lol next time IF you have to put a rag over the cap.

[HAULIN IT]

I'll add my Two cents...I don't like the sounds of this at all. Snooz is on the right track here I feel. Tell us more about this "crate" engine. Was it fully assembled, a long block or what? Do you have straight water in it or anti-freeze? If anti-freeze, do you smell the famous "sweet" smell of burning coolant? How far away is the builder/seller of this engine? Was this purchased from a single guy or a company who the guy that gave you the "Green light" works for?

Not to knock you chef, however I don't know how to really put this. If you don't understand how to go about checking the basics on your own...I'm concerned you may overlook something/ miss a tell-tale sign of something simply by the lack of knowledge.

The idea of taking the rad. cap off at operating temp. & being surprised the coolant came bubbling out in itself raises question to me.

Tell us a little more background about this whole deal...What was wrong with the old engine? Where was the exhaust during   the downtime, ect. Is it single or dual? 

I feel it's simply crazy that an engine builder would say to a customer: "Yea, you have a guarantee on that engine...go ahead & tear it into a bunch of pieces looking for something even though you or anyone else has not done ANY testing on it"

Lots of good advice has already been given, however I think it's way premature talking about needing replacement gaskets at this time. A compression test is needed, a coolant pressure test would be a great idea as well. Give us some more to go on. Lorne

[roundhouse]

Do the compression test and coolant pressure test first

If the engine came with heads on it
And the compression test is low
I'd be wanting the guy to send me another engine

[theaddictedchef]

Haulin.....thank you for the message.  I appreciate the forward approach and the cautiousness of not wanting to offend me.  I'm comfortable, so please - offend away!  I need info, not kid gloves and I appreciate the fact you took the time to write what you did. 

I pulled the old engine.  It had 300,000 miles on it and had overheated coming down the freeway.  After a long assessment, I decided to go with a crate engine from O'Reilly.  I got a new wiring harness from Summit.  New - fuel pump, water pump, torque converter, flywheel, intake, distributor, alternator, battery (was due anyway), shocks, brake pads, and gauges. 

I pulled the old engine, installed the new one and my pops has been a mechanic his whole life.  He just retired from Honeywell and lives two hours away.  He's also 70 and I don't want him rolling around my garage floor.  There are a lot of times where he tells me to put something on the forum and get info from the guys.

I'm not a pro mechanic and have a solid grasp on what I'm doing.....but I'm at a spot where I'm over my head and I know it. 

I put a rag over the rad cap and my truck did spray some coolant but I didn't get burned.....I was careful about that. I wanted to see if my fluid was bubbling - which it was.  I've got a sweet smell from the exhaust and I will compression test tonight.  The way I understand it is a compression test will tell me if the cylinders are not holding pressure but won't tell me if it's a head gasket or crack somewhere. 

Fluids are good and there is not coolant in the oil.  I've checked that.  I pulled all the plugs and they don't appear to be wet.  The temp gauge appears to be running right at 180 and it did go up to about 186-190 and then came back down to 180 and held - which made me think that the thermostat opened.  I've got all of that on video with my phone.

I called O'Reilly and my crate motor is under warranty but I had to make the calls to American Torque.  I talked to a guy that was helpful and didn't just try and blow me off.  He said that they sell a lot of these motors and it's very rare that they come back.  He went on to say that I can pull the engine and send it back but that they do not reimburse for DIY stuff. I'd have to ship it to them, they inspect it, and if they determine it was defective, they will send me a new one.  When I talked to pops about that he said that they will no doubt tell me it was my fault and not send me a new engine.  OR....send me a new one that has the same issues.  I've got an open claim with them so I'm not concerned about that. The guy at AT said to pull the heads and look at the head gasket.  If it is a gasket problem, he will send me new ones overnight.  I've dealt with parts guys and warranty guys before and he seemed to want to help me (understanding that he's a company guy and sending me a new crate motor costs the company $$).  I'm realistic about that part. 

It's a 350, and came with valve covers, oil pan.  I've gotten down there and inspected and I can't see coolant from the block.  It doesn't leak oil.  It sounds good, doesn't miss, and only blows white smoke from the passenger side.

One more thing.....I'm on the heart transplant list at Mayo in Phoenix and there are days where I don't feel good enough to wrench and other days where I feel fine and spend several hours on it.  I'm in Phoenix and it's 6pm right now and 107 outside so that's a factor as well.  I don't want to end up in the hospital because I was stupid and worked on my truck. 

I'll take any input and I swear to Christ you won't offend me....any of you.  Fire away and I'm all ears.  As soon as the sun goes down, I'm going to do a compression test and I'll have more info later. 

I truly appreciate the message. 

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[theaddictedchef]

I missed a couple of answers. 
350 with heads on, oil pan, valve covers, timing cover. 
Dual exhaust with headers and smoking from the right (passenger) side. 
Old engine had very high miles and overheated on the freeway. 
Coolant in the radiator - not strait water.  Also - new radiator. 
Oil pressure is running at 50-55 - best I can tell bc the value on my gauge is 20, 40, 60, and holds steady there. 

Also, I've got about 3 mins on video - the bubbling, exhaust, and temp gauge and can send the video.  I can't load it here because the file is too big but might be able to trim it.  I'll try so you can get a good look.   

Thank you to everyone for the replies. 

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