Author Topic: Some Newbie Questions  (Read 6925 times)

Offline Dr_Snooz

  • Junior Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 684
  • "I like to take hammers, and just break stuff"
Some Newbie Questions
« on: August 16, 2015, 05:19:49 pm »
Kind of a shotgun blast here. This is for my new Suburban.

1. Do I need to replace the seals when I repack the front bearings? Haven't done it
before on a 4x4 and not sure what to expect.

2. Where is the coolant block drain on an '89 350 TBI?

3. The last time I adjusted rear brakes, it involved a lot of swearing because the star adjusters only seem to adjust one way, like a ratchet. I can adjust until the wheels drag, but backing off doesn't work until I essentially break the adjusters by beating on them. This fills me with rage and prompts some serious swearing. What am I doing wrong?

4. When the electric rear window breaks, how does one open the tailgate?

5. Where do I get new 33" tires for 16.5" rims?

Thanks!
1989 Chevy Suburban V-2500, 5.7L, TH400

1990 Chevy C-3500 Ext. Cab, 7.4L, 3L80

2009 Chevy Silverado 1500 WT 4WD, 4.8L, 4L60

Offline LTZ C20

  • Senior Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 3795
  • "I'm here for a good time" -George Strait
Re: Some Newbie Questions
« Reply #1 on: August 16, 2015, 07:47:51 pm »
1. Yes I would, but I don't work on 4x4's much, mine is 2wd.

2. Small petcock drain, bottom of the driver's side radiator tank.

3. Can't help ya there, that may need to be a separate topic.

4. A hammer haha. Kidding, only kidding. Gotta get inside the tailgate from inside of the truck if the window is up when it quits working.

5. Large tire stores or off road stores I would guess or get rims that aren't 16.5".
LTZ Cheyenne C20

Offline Irish_Alley

  • Tim
  • Senior Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 13333
  • Family is not an important thing. It's everything.
Re: Some Newbie Questions
« Reply #2 on: August 17, 2015, 03:01:34 am »
1. Yes

3. http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php?topic=31495.msg264426#msg264426

5. No one makes them anymore  that I found unless you get specialty place and you might be paying a lot for them.
If you can’t tell yourself the truth, who can you tell it to?~Irish_Alley

When you have eliminated the impossible, whatever remains, however improbable, must be the truth ~Sherlock Holmes

Offline Dr_Snooz

  • Junior Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 684
  • "I like to take hammers, and just break stuff"
Re: Some Newbie Questions
« Reply #3 on: August 17, 2015, 01:49:02 pm »
3. http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php?topic=31495.msg264426#msg264426

Thanks for the link. That's what I usually do. However, GM says to back off "33 notches." So how can you count notches if you're holding off the ratchet plate? It's a classic "double-bind" which causes me a lot of frustration. I guess the real question is how do I adjust the brakes properly when GM has made it impossible?

I'll update the other thread too. Hope that's okay.

Quote
5. No one makes them anymore

That's what the shops keep telling me. I called Super Swamper and they confirmed that they make several different options for 16.5" rims. Then when I call a Super Swamper retailer, the story changes. So I don't know. I was just wondering if you guys knew something I don't.


2. Small petcock drain, bottom of the driver's side radiator tank.

Engine block drain?
1989 Chevy Suburban V-2500, 5.7L, TH400

1990 Chevy C-3500 Ext. Cab, 7.4L, 3L80

2009 Chevy Silverado 1500 WT 4WD, 4.8L, 4L60

Offline ehjorten

  • Senior Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 1242
Re: Some Newbie Questions
« Reply #4 on: August 17, 2015, 02:02:08 pm »
Kind of a shotgun blast here. This is for my new Suburban.

1. Do I need to replace the seals when I repack the front bearings? Haven't done it
before on a 4x4 and not sure what to expect.

3. The last time I adjusted rear brakes, it involved a lot of swearing because the star adjusters only seem to adjust one way, like a ratchet. I can adjust until the wheels drag, but backing off doesn't work until I essentially break the adjusters by beating on them. This fills me with rage and prompts some serious swearing. What am I doing wrong?

Thanks!

1. Yes!  You will destroy the seal getting it out.  When you put a new one on, take a look at the condition of the seal surface on the spindle.  It may need some emory cloth to clean it up, but if it is gouged too much you will need the proper sized Speedi-sleeve to repair it.  Make sure you use a lot of grease and pack the cavity of the hub.  I usually use one small tub of grease for each wheel on a 4X4.

3.  You need to push the adjuster off of the star-wheel in order to back off the brakes.  It is supposed to be a one-way ratchet by design!  To properly adjust them you need to put the drum on with them backed-off slightly and then when everything is on, you ratchet the star-wheel slowly checking the rotation of the drum for a slight drag.  That is it!  Backing-up with a good, rapid brake will actuate the adjuster and keep them properly adjusted.
-Erik-
1991 V3500 - Gen V TBI 454, 4L80E, NP205, 14 bolt FF, D60, 8" Lift on 35s
1977 K20 Silverado - 350, THM350, NP203, 14 bolt FF, D44, Stock Lift on 31s
1969 Chevelle Malibu Sport Coupe - EFI350, THM350
1968 Chevrolet Step-side Pickup - 300HP L6

Offline LTZ C20

  • Senior Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 3795
  • "I'm here for a good time" -George Strait
Re: Some Newbie Questions
« Reply #5 on: August 17, 2015, 02:18:35 pm »
The blocks don't have a drain, if you want to get all the coolant out you have to either flush it with regular water from a hose or pull a freeze plug and let whatever is left in the block drain out the freeze plug hole. What exactly are you trying to do?
LTZ Cheyenne C20

Offline Jason S

  • Senior Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 1561
Re: Some Newbie Questions
« Reply #6 on: August 17, 2015, 03:27:12 pm »
Engine block drain?

There should be a threaded plug on each side, low on the block. Lower than and forward of the rear freeze plug.
« Last Edit: August 17, 2015, 03:33:33 pm by Jason S »
1973 GMC K2500, Super Custom, Camper Special, 350, TH350, NP203, 4.10's
1974 Chevrolet K10, Custom Deluxe, 350, SM465, NP203, 3.73's

"1) Peace through strength; 2) Trust but verify; 3) Beware of evil in the modern world"

Offline LTZ C20

  • Senior Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 3795
  • "I'm here for a good time" -George Strait
Re: Some Newbie Questions
« Reply #7 on: August 18, 2015, 01:34:51 am »
Engine block drain?

There should be a threaded plug on each side, low on the block. Lower than and forward of the rear freeze plug.
I feel like an idiot haha, completely forgot about those. What a dummy.
LTZ Cheyenne C20

Offline roundhouse

  • Senior Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 1474
  • Newbie
Some Newbie Questions
« Reply #8 on: August 19, 2015, 08:27:22 am »
When you get the front seals

Get extras in case you damage a new one trying to install it

You will also need some dental picks and loads of patience to properly adjust the big nuts on the spindles

On the TV shows they say
"Reinstall the nuts"
It takes me over an hour for each wheel and I've done it many times there are no shortcuts

Chock the wheels so it can't roll
Only remove one tire at a time ,
When you jack it up , slide the tire you remove under the vehicle frame just behind the front or just in front of the rear wheel  depending on which one you remove

If it falls this will keep the vehicle from squishing you totally
Use sturdy jack stands and lower the vehicle onto them and then stand up and shake the vehicle side to side and front to back as hard as you can

If it seems wobbly , you don't have it supported safely

And you will normally need new locking rings that go in between the nuts and probably at least one new nut
Most people do not know how to install them and damage them 
Here's the method I use    Others please chime in if you have a different method
One nut goes on first
There is supposed to be a tiny pin sticking out of the side of the nut
the pin on the nut sticks OUT
Tighten it while spinning the rotor until the rotor gets harder to turn then back off 1/4 to 1/2 turn
You want the rotor to spin easily but not have any looseness when you grab the edges and shake it up and down

Then install the locking ring   The ring has a tab to slide into a slot on the spindle and lots of holes
One of the holes has to go over that pin sticking out

If it doesn't line up, use your dental picks to remove the ring and flip it over
The holes are offset a little and may match up

Use a bright flashlight and see
You may have to remove the ring and tighten or loosen the nut a tiny bit to get the pin in a position where one of the holes in the ring will slide over it

Once you do get it lined up install the outer nut , the one with no pin

Tighten it good  out some masking tape or a sandwich bag and a rubber band over where the manual lockout goes  and go for a test drive
When you get back.  Jack it up and grab the tire at top and bottom and make sure sure that there is no movement

Sometimes everything feels right installing it but a trip around the block reveals that something didn't go right
If it's tight then re install the lockout
Use a light coating of grease on the lockout
Too much will interfere with the operation


Adjust the brakes with the drum on but no tire
Tighten till you can hear the shoes dragging the drum but can still easily turn the drum

All of your pedal "feel" comes from the rear shoes
If your pedal feels soft it's usually the shoes not adjusted properly

After you put it back together and make a few test stops
You can see which side is braking harder , easy on dirt or gravel to see which one skids first
Then adjust the other one tighter or loosen the side that skids first
You want them to be the same when you stomp the brakes

Find some new rims
16.5 tires are no longer manufactured ,
For some reason unknown to mortals.   The manufacturers used a different bead inside the rim on 16.5 rims
Actually no bead , so the tires come off easily if the pressure gets low

So instead of making rims with a proper inner bead they just stopped making tires


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
« Last Edit: August 19, 2015, 08:54:20 am by roundhouse »

Offline enaberif

  • Junior Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 810
Re: Some Newbie Questions
« Reply #9 on: August 19, 2015, 08:31:46 am »
Spindle nuts are not THAT hard. The biggest thing that people don't do is when they install the first one they don't back it off a tad so when you insert the  second ring with the dimple on it that it falls into a hole so the 3rd ring can log it ll together.

Offline Dr_Snooz

  • Junior Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 684
  • "I like to take hammers, and just break stuff"
Re: Some Newbie Questions
« Reply #10 on: August 21, 2015, 12:55:18 am »
Okay, finally got the front bearings done today. The manual had me looking at the wrong diagram and trying to remove retaining rings that could not be accessed. The shops couldn't tell me what socket to buy, so it's been fun.

If I'm reading you right about adjusting rear brakes, you tighten the star adjusters until the brakes drag and then you DON'T BACK THEM OFF? I have my doubts, but I'll try it and see what happens.

Did the trans service yesterday. I love the TH400s. They dump oil all over your driveway, then you get to roll around in it as you work. Wonderful design there. It's even better when the driveway runs off into your creek. Freakin' GM...

I got the front brakes replaced. They were a mess. I bled the system and ran the MC dry several times in the process. More fun. The fan belt is replaced, the coolant changed. I hillbilly fixed the suffocating fresh gas smell coming from the gas tank. The A/C system has been holding vacuum for the last couple days, so that's good. I suspect it has a slow leak and only needs to be filled from time to time. Grandma gets hot, so a working A/C is important.

Tomorrow I steam clean, fix the tailgate and figure out how to adjust the steering box without removing it from the truck. Then smog check and get it off non-op.

Almost there!
1989 Chevy Suburban V-2500, 5.7L, TH400

1990 Chevy C-3500 Ext. Cab, 7.4L, 3L80

2009 Chevy Silverado 1500 WT 4WD, 4.8L, 4L60