installing the harmonic balancer

[SuburbanHunter]

77 K10 350/350...

I searched for this topic but surprisingly no hits. I need to re-install my harmonic balancer.  Most of the information I have seen on the web says "use the special tool" I have visited 2 auto parts stores and called another. No-one appears to have the tool and at 2 of the shops they talked to me like I was an idiot and said basically "there is no such tool. you just use a hammer and socket to get it started and then finish with the crank bolt. I have done it that way since the Truman administration on every type of engine. trust me". (I won't be visiting either of those stores again).

So, what say ye? I am pretty sure I could get it on the way they suggest but would rather do it the right way as many times I have screwed myself by trying short cuts and workarounds.

Thanks in advance.

[zieg85]

77 K10 350/350...

 you just use a hammer and socket to get it started and then finish with the crank bolt. I have done it that way since the Truman administration on every type of engine. trust me". (I won't be visiting either of those stores again).

So, what say ye? I am pretty sure I could get it on the way they suggest but would rather do it the right way as many times I have screwed myself by trying short cuts and workarounds.

Thanks in advance.

I've not seen nor heard of that tool.  One may exist but I have never seen it.

[bd]

AutoZone 27144 *
AutoZone will loan the tool!  If you only need it for one time use, it's quite a deal!

Harbor Freight 40749

NAPA BK-7768028

Lisle 53460

OTC 4531

OTC 6505

Powerhouse Products (Comp Cams) POW300000

Snap-On YA188G or YA188MKT

Mac Tools TP1330A

MATCO

Although GM originally specified a hammer and J-tool driver, threaded installers provide better control and avoid distortion or damage to the balancer, crank, and radiator.  Installers are broadly available in many combinations (some standalone, some packaged with pullers) with prices ranging $25 - $140+ .

For occasional use try Harbor Freight.  If you plan on using it more frequently consider purchasing NAPA, Lisle or the Snap-On YA188G.  For commercial use where tool breakage is less of an option purchase OTC, Snap-On, Mac, or MATCO.

[zieg85]

Thanks Rich, I guess you are never to old to learn something new!!!  I did not know this existed cause I guess careful rap on a 2x4 to lessen the blow did the trick for me every time.

[jumpkickyergunt]

Use the threaded tool that BD mentioned. Screws right into the snout and you just crank it in. Makes life so easy.

[SuburbanHunter]

Thanks All!

The 2 places that had not heard of the HB Installer tool were AutoZones. Anyway I am getting the tool now that I have part numbers! I am tempted to call the those 2 stores and let them know that it not only exists but they have them in their catalog if not on hand.

These forums are a tremendous source of knowledge, experience and entertainment.

[SuburbanHunter]

Well I found the install tool. But now I have another question. The balancer that came off the engine I am removing is 1 5/8 inches thick and looks really nice once I cleaned it up. The one that came with the  engine I am about to install is 1 1/4 inches and looks like it was beat to death with a hammer when it was last installed. I mean serious hammer marks.

I'd like to use the thicker, unbeaten balancer but when I compare the side by side the timing marks are not the same in relation to the key slot. Does that mean they are from different applications or does that mean that one of them has had the inner part separate from the outer part? Is there a way to easily tell if a balancer has come unglued?

[enaberif]

Well I found the install tool. But now I have another question. The balancer that came off the engine I am removing is 1 5/8 inches thick and looks really nice once I cleaned it up. The one that came with the  engine I am about to install is 1 1/4 inches and looks like it was beat to death with a hammer when it was last installed. I mean serious hammer marks.

I'd like to use the thicker, unbeaten balancer but when I compare the side by side the timing marks are not the same in relation to the key slot. Does that mean they are from different applications or does that mean that one of them has had the inner part separate from the outer part? Is there a way to easily tell if a balancer has come unglued?

Harmonic balancers and timing tabs are different for different setups.

[SuburbanHunter]

Thanks very much enaberif for the quick reply! I will be using the one that came with the engine I bought.

[SuburbanHunter]

Well that harmonic balancer install tool sure works nicely. Which is good because I am going to have to use it again. I got the balancer installed, took the tool back, installed the pulley and found out that 2 of the 3 pulley bolts in the balancer are stripped out.

I am guessing it is probably not a great idea to drill and re-tap those holes so I am going to buy a replacement. I don't know the exact year of my engine but I do know it is the old style with 2 piece rear main seal. I have been looking on line and there are 2 kinds: internally balanced and externally balanced. How do I figure out which I need?

Thanks
Dan

[bd]

Both of the balancers you imaged are neutral balance.  You need the balancer for an internally balanced first generation engine.  Only the 400 Cu In small block (and 383's based on the 400 crank) were externally balanced.

[SuburbanHunter]

Thanks BD!

[enaberif]

2 piece rear seals was up to 1986 if I remember correctly then it went to a 1 piece setup.

2 piece rear seals are SOOOOOOOOOOOO nice and easy to do.

[Blazin]

Tool works slick as butter. I have one, bought it years ago.
I know my local Auto Zone has a rental balancer installer tool. I have seen it on the counter when I was there picking up an order of parts.

[Irish_Alley]

autozone should have a counter mat that is on the parts counter. one goes into every loan-a-tool and other mats may cover parts of the front suspension. very useful if you know how to read.