76 c10 project

[Torres454]

Can this be saved or should i change the chasis.

[1967KaiserM715]

Steering box? Is it cracked, or was it just torn open by something? They do sell a plate to go over that area, I think it will still work for a 76, I would also invest in extra bracing for the box

[Magic1]

It should be able to be repaired. As said above they make a repair kit that can be welded in place between the steering gear box and the frame as well as underneath. A company called off road design also sells a steering box brace kit that strengthens up the area around the frame where the box mounts to keep it from flexing while steering. It goes on the inside of the frame between the frame and crossmember and acts like a gusset.  My frame was cracked and I installed the repair kit and have had no problems since but I plan to get the brace kit as well just for peace of mind to make sure it's not a problem again.

[roundhouse]

Don't think I've ever seen a 2WD box ripped out of the frame
But it's fixable


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[jumbowolfe]

"They" being the vendors that shall not be named on this forum, or is it a specific vendor that sells the repair kit?

Mine's not cracked, but I'd really like to have it welded it just to make sure it never does.  The extra bracing, i'll look into as well.

Speaking of, are there any sites that sell a bracing/boxing kit for the back of the frame around the bed area, where cracks have formed around the shock mounts?

[Magic1]

Off road design has both. Never seen anything for the rear section of the frame though. I'd say that'd have to be some metal, a little ingenuity and a welder. Lol

[BBM3]

If you tighten that coat hanger a bit more you should be good to go.   

[bd]

@Torres454

Can this be saved or should i change the chassis?

Various companies market pieces and kits to address frame cracking at the steering gear.  Some are weld-on, some bolt-on:

• Off Road Design
  
  
• AutoFab
  
  
• Warrior Products, et al
  

If you have retained the missing chunk of frame so that it can be reinserted and welded back into place, it will make your repair significantly easier.  If not, you will need to fabricate a piece from steel that has similar thickness to the frame and trim it so that it closely fits the hole, and then weld it into place.  See 87 R10 Cracked Frame Repair @ Steering Gear  for an overview of the process. 

Here's an excerpt from yet another thread regarding cracks behind the steering gear...

First, you need to repair the existing cracks.  Clamp the frame back into position.  Inspect closely and drill a 1/16" - 1/8" hole at the end of every crack.  V-groove the cracks and weld them up.  Make sure you get good penetration with the welds.  Dress the welds down so the frame looks original.

[For damage that severe], you should fishplate the frame.  There are preformed weld-on plates for the outside of the frame next to the gearbox and the lower flange, but you will have to fabricate reinforcement for the inside of the frame, or weld in 3/16" thick washers.  This will strengthen the frame, but it won't stop the strain the gearbox transfers to the frame.  Reinforcing the inside of the frame may not be necessary if you also do the subsequent steps.

Install torque arms between the gearbox mounting bolts and the middle of the center crossmember to stabilize the gear mounting. 

I just did this complete repair on my '87 R10, but haven't posted it yet.  My gearbox was held in place by only one bolt; the other three bolts had tincanned the frame and the gear would move about an inch away from the frame as I turned the wheels.  I thought the steering was getting kind of soft - I had to start herding the truck down the road!   

...and another...

Welding a cracked or broken vehicle frame should be performed only by someone who is suitably experienced with this type of repair.  The consequences of a poor repair can be catastrophic! 

Make sure you find the very end of the cracks and drill 1/6" to 1/8" through-holes to stop the cracks from propagating any further.  "V" the cracks and weld for complete penetration, then grind/sand the welds down to the original height of the surrounding steel.  When your done, both sides of the frame should appear as though it was never damaged. 

You absolutely should go the extra step of stabilizing the gearbox mounting.  If you haven't installed taller/wider steer tires and you're not running a big block, the bolt-on brace kit from AutoFab may be adequate with no further investment needed.  You can always call AutoFab and question them.

If you decide to use a weld-on reinforcement plate, Warrior is not the only company to market a plate - and, yes, the plates are preformed.  However, the plate should fit the frame like a glove beneath the steering gear, so as not to interfere with gearbox mounting (there's very little spare room around the gearbox mounting bosses - proper fit is crucial).  Nearly all available repair plates will need some hammer work to make them fit correctly.  I cannot over stress the need to check the fit and clearance of the plate between the gearbox and frame, carefully.  In addition, before the plate is welded on, it should be sandwiched between the gearbox and the frame rail, with the gearbox bolts torqued to spec; this ensures the frame takes the shape of the gearbox housing to avoid distortion of the steering gear case.  Remember, by installing a plate you will be almost doubling the thickness of the frame in this area, making the frame far more rigid.

I think the ultimate repair, though unnecessary for many and subject to opinion, is to install both kits.

There are a few other threads on this Forum that address frame repair, as well.

[bd]

@jumbowolfe

Mine's not cracked, but I'd really like to have it welded it just to make sure it never does.  The extra bracing, i'll look into as well.

Speaking of, are there any sites that sell a bracing/boxing kit for the back of the frame around the bed area, where cracks have formed around the shock mounts?

The thread, "cracked frame 79 k10" addresses your concerns.

Welds concentrate stress in the vicinity of the welds - so if no cracks preexist in the frame around the steering gear, you should be okay with the bolt-on reinforcement kit by itself.  The bolt-on kits are totally non-invasive and prevent tin-canning (levering) of the frame rail face.  The weld-on kits are best suited to repairing frames already weakened by cracks.  If a vehicle is to be used aggressively off road, I recommend pairing the weld-on and bolt-on kits.


Now, regarding frame cracks that develop around the upper shock absorber mounts...

Front shock mounting:
I haven't seen any 'kits,' per say.  But some factory GM 4x4s use 3/16" steel brackets to augment outboard support of the front, upper shock pin mount.  You may have to fabricate your own brackets out of 1/4" steel plate and attach them to the frame using Grade 8 flanged frame bolts.  Careful measurement is crucial to the outcome.

Rear shock mounting:
GM's biggest issue with frame cracking around upper shock mounts occurs at the rear.  Frame cracks, when they develop, are typically starburst, radiating outward from the shock mount hole (right side), or are sub-concentric with the shock mount hole (left side).  The repair solution is to terminate the cracks with 1/8" drill holes, v-groove and weld from both sides.  Then dress the frame down and weld 3/16" thick reinforcing washers to either side of the frame.  Unfortunately, cracks will eventually reappear around the circumference of the welded washers, requiring subsequent rewelding and repair.  Longer service intervals may be achieved by using washers of dissimilar outside diameters to help disperse rigidity of the repair areas. 

But, for a bullet-proof repair, regardless of whether or not cracks have yet developed, adapting the concept from the front shock mounting on four wheel drives, "full wrap brackets" can be fabricated out of 1/4" steel plate that support the outboard ends of the upper shock pins.  If done correctly, this will virtually eliminate tincanning and (re)cracking of the frame.  Again, the idea is to design the supports to increase rigidity of the upper shock pin mountings, while dispersing the stress and minimizing the strain transferred across the frame faces and flanges.  As with any frame bracket installation, Grade 8 flanged hardware is a must!

I have performed both modifications for the upper shock pin reinforcement at all four corners with complete success.  Patients and planning is key.  If you are interested and I have the opportunity, I will post pics.

[Torres454]

Steering box? Is it cracked, or was it just torn open by something? They do sell a plate to go over that area, I think it will still work for a 76, I would also invest in extra bracing for the box

Yeah steering box. I have a donor 74 as well. I think  ill look into that plate. Thanks

[Torres454]

It should be able to be repaired. As said above they make a repair kit that can be welded in place between the steering gear box and the frame as well as underneath. A company called off road design also sells a steering box brace kit that strengthens up the area around the frame where the box mounts to keep it from flexing while steering. It goes on the inside of the frame between the frame and crossmember and acts like a gusset.  My frame was cracked and I installed the repair kit and have had no problems since but I plan to get the brace kit as well just for peace of mind to make sure it's not a problem again.

Thanks

[Torres454]

If you tighten that coat hanger a bit more you should be good to go.   

Haha. Yeah well the whole steering box would move and would bearly steer.

[BBM3]

If you tighten that coat hanger a bit more you should be good to go.   

Haha. Yeah well the whole steering box would move and would bearly steer.

Sorry I could not help myself seeing the coat hanger in the picture.

Seriously though. No need for a frame swap. One steel plate welded and drilled on the inside of the frame rail will fix it.

[nazielinski]

My 82 k10 was cracked around the frame and bent up when i first got it and it happened in the same spot i anchored it to our garage floor and ran a ratchet strap around it and cranked it down till it was in the correct place then i proceeded to weld the crack and i boxed in the whole front end of the frame from the first cross member all the way forward it may be a little hill billy but it works and its strong as heck and its a cheap way to fix it as well if your on a tight budget

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