Increasing GVWR

[LTZ C20]

What is your guys preference in quality steering parts. The guy at the spring shop said do the ball joints if you do the front springs. I know some members like Napa for stuff like that, what about Moog, I've heard they are good also?

[enaberif]

Moog is all I use

[LTZ C20]

Moog is all I use

How many of thier products have you used and which products?

[enaberif]

Moog is all I use

How many of thier products have you used and which products?

My entire front end is rebuilt with their stuff; tie rod ends, tie rods, drag links, ball joints, u-joints.

Never buy it from your local store either get it off Rock Auto and use their 5% code and you'll save tons of money. For example when I needed my tie rod ends and my front tie rod it was going to be $160 CAD for the tie rod and $45 CAD for the tie rod end. Through RA even with shipping and exchange rate it only cost me $160 and change.

[LTZ C20]

Oh that's pretty cool. I'll check out rock auto.

[LTZ C20]

I was looking on Rock Auto last night, they seem to have everything in the Moog brand, I saw they also had AC Delco Professional also, few dollars cheaper for Delco parts but that's as close to factory as I'm gonna be able to get. I believe factory is better for parts like this. Have to make a list of everything to compare prices Moog to Delco and see where the final price tag lands at.

[Dr_Snooz]

I'm a big fan of Moog too. Their upper control arms for my Honda are better than the OE brand.

[LTZ C20]

Well after thorough research of part numbers & prices, I have made a decision. I will be rebuilding the front end first, then I will be re springing the rear end.

The front will be new control arms, tie rods, springs, adjuster sleeves, pitman & idler arms. I know it sounds like over kill since this started as wanting to boost up the rear, but after careful thought and advice from professionals, restoring the front, then evaluating and fixing the rear after seems like the logical thing to do. After all, it's over 35 yrs old and the ball joints look to be possibly original as they are riveted in, there are some blown dust boots up front and in the 6 years I've had it, I've never really done much with the suspension/steering except lube it and shocks 5 years ago. Only the good Lord above knows what it's been thru before I bought it.

All of the parts I'm going to get for the front will be AC Delco. Either from my work or Rock Auto. I've got an estimate of parts & shipping from R.A., just need sales tax for CA on R.A. and from work. So when that is figured out and all cost factors from both parties have been established, I will decide on who my supplier will be.

I'm allowing my self to save up 100 or 200 bucks from each check until the end of the year, then I will buy all the parts and do it all at once so I only have to align it once.

So when the front is done, depending on price and what the spring shop has already built or not, the rears will either be replaced or re arced and cleaned up.

I appreciate everyone's input, knowledge and experience. It helped me make a logical decision, as apposed to the more hasty ones I sometimes make when I get on these money sucking tangents haha.

Thanks again all!

[enaberif]

I did the exact same thing as you. I knew with a 40 year old truck lots of stuff regarding drive train was going to be worn and tired out beyond tired.

So I started with the engine to make it run better which resulted in me cleaning up the front end and now I am doing the rear brakes and will be doing cylinders, hard lines and soft lines tomorrow. Then I will worry about the rest.

But these old trucks need lots of love in the drive train department so good on you for fixing it right. And don't forget RA also has 5% off discounts which are easy to find and if you want one let me know.

[LTZ C20]

It's an out of control snow ball affect that turns into an avalanche and then it's all over and the whole truck is new again lol. Thanks for the offer.

I figured out the total price of everything from work with tax and the total price of everything from RA with tax and shipping. The two totals are about 18 dollars difference, RA being cheaper. I'm not sure what is required or what the hassle may be if I have to send a part back if I have an issue if I get them from RA. I know with work it's really easy to take something back haha. I don't even know for sure if RA charges sales tax for buyers in CA but I leaned on the side of they do just to get a price, if they don't then it will obviously be less money. Either way, I'm considering paying the extra 18 bucks for convenience. The money will be spent anyway. Plus I'm going to get Energy Suspension urathane bump stops from my local O'Weirdly's. It's all good! Even tho its expensive, deep down inside I think I really enjoy spending large amounts of cash on this truck haha. I'm terminally obsessed.

[enaberif]

I had ordered a set of ball joints from RA and they were oddly missing pieces. I filed a warranty issue and within a day they shipped me out a new one on their dime and didn't require the old one back.

For a $20 difference I'd just buy locally.

[Dr_Snooz]

I highly recommend poking your head under the truck and doing a thorough visual inspection before buying a bunch of stuff. You're going to find things you didn't expect and some of what you did expect won't be necessary. For instance, the ball joints have zerks and can last a very long time. Bushings, however, are another matter and you may be surprised to find some really bad ones. Match your buying to your needs and you'll do better in the long run.

[LTZ C20]

I had ordered a set of ball joints from RA and they were oddly missing pieces. I filed a warranty issue and within a day they shipped me out a new one on their dime and didn't require the old one back.

For a $20 difference I'd just buy locally.

Nice. That was my thoughts pretty much.

[LTZ C20]

I highly recommend poking your head under the truck and doing a thorough visual inspection before buying a bunch of stuff. You're going to find things you didn't expect and some of what you did expect won't be necessary. For instance, the ball joints have zerks and can last a very long time. Bushings, however, are another matter and you may be surprised to find some really bad ones. Match your buying to your needs and you'll do better in the long run.

I did about a year ago, I used one of the Multi-Point inspection sheets from work that we use on customers vehicles. I don't remember everything that I marked down as "Requires Future Attention" but I do remember it was quiet a few things that got a check in the yellow box along with 1 or 2 things that got a check in the red box. So I don't mind replacing everything, I know some might say it's unnecessary or may be a bit hasty but what the heck, I got over 12 grand into the truck already and it keeps me off the streets lol. Brakes are starting to squeeze also, probably need to inspect the rears at some point, haven't touched them since I've owned it either and that's where the squeek is coming from. I have a relative idea of what I will find if I was to do another inspection.

[Irish_Alley]

i understand wanting to replace all the parts just due to normal wear and tear. but dont cheap out and get cheap parts. my 94 c1500 the lower ball joint broke one year a friend replaced it with napa's brand and in one year maybe two it broke again. i replaced it this time (cant remember the price, but i didnt get the cheap one) and it lasted years. but since it was apart i should of replaced everything since it had years on them.