Bad power steering pump?

[Gagecampbell82]

I have an 82 c10 with a 350 in it and the power steering pump has always whined and leaked a little. recently it has gotten worse and I assume it has gone out.

I have the belt as tight as I can get it. (Although it does have a slight give) and I can somewhat turn left but I can barely turn the wheel right at all. I've swapped lines from another pump onto it but it didn't help. It also squeals very badly witch it didn't do before. So I'm about to go buy a new pump with reservoir, both lines, and belt that is slightly smaller.

This all worsened after swapping brake hoses and I rounded off the hard line from the frame to the prop. Valve. And upon re-assembly it is horrible, I've tried checking the fluid, bleeding any air out, and tightening the belt but with the same results.

I had also been told while it was leaking I could use atf in it, does this cause damage to the pump?  Could it have hurt the steering gearbox?

[philo_beddoe]

Back in the old days we used the same stuff for both applications. I'm not sure now, perhaps use pwr steering for pwr steering and tranny for tranny just to be safe.

[Gagecampbell82]

I had been using atf because we had like 6 random quarts show up so I was like what the heck, but now after I added ps fluid it began to foam up the tranny fluid and it looked like a fresh glass of code red mtn dew. Haha.

[Gagecampbell82]

Also I swapped the lines a while back because the ones on the truck looked bad and were cut up. And so are the current ones so I'll be replacing them. But would it be worth the extra $20 for a magnetic inline filter? I've never had a filter on mine.

[philo_beddoe]

Well, it would remove all and any ferrous metal particles, and they are generally under $20. Not a bad idea.  Are the leaks repaired? I have always know low fluid will give you a whine.

[Gagecampbell82]

No it still leaks, I believe where the pump and resivoir meet,and also from one of the lines, it just refuses to stay tight. But I just want to do it all right the first time. When I get the new pump I will probably use the return hose to help 'drain' out the atf while adding ps fluid to be sure.

[LTZ C20]

Even in current applications, atf can be used in place of power steering, we do it fairly often at work. I actually prefer atf in place of p/s fluid for a few reasons:

- it has higher temperature rating
- it is a tougher fluid due to its intended purpose
- atf has a higher detergent level then p/s fluid does, it helps keep the system cleaner
-it has a longer life span due to its intended purpose
- both are hydraulic fluid, atf is just a better hydraulic fluid.

There is nothing wrong with using atf, I don't use p/s fluid in my truck, atf for both p/s & trans. I also would use GM DEX VI (6) automatic transmission fluid only.

[rich weyand]

I use full-synthetic ATF in the trans, and full-synthetic P/S fluid in the power steering.

Trans: shifts got cleaner and crisper, and trans temps went down, as did engine temps since they share the radiator.

P/S: Power steering pressure went up, steering effort went down.  I can palm the wheel lock-to-lock at 700 rpm idle while stationary on dry pavement.

[philo_beddoe]

Rich, then whats your opinion on full synthetic on the engine oil in these older v8's from the 70's? I have been using max life syn-blend.  (And not to run off on gage's post, just a side note)

[rich weyand]

I have run full-synthetic (Mobil1 10W30) since I put in the new crate engine 4 years ago.  Synthetic oils have better lubrication and don't break down.  I add half a bottle of ZDDPPlus per oil change.

Running full-synth in an original engine is another issue.  Synthetic oil penetrates everywhere, including any oil leaks you have.  You can put full-synth in an original SBC from the 70s.  Keeping it in there may be a whole nother issue.

[philo_beddoe]

Ok i read ya, thanks. Guess i'll stick with the blend for now. Any problems with using the 10w40?

[philo_beddoe]

That zddplus looks like good stuff, where can i get it?

[LTZ C20]

I can palm the wheel lock-to-lock at 700 rpm idle while stationary on dry pavement.

I can do this also but with 1 finger using Dex 6 in the p/s system. But for some strange reason my p/s no matter The condition or type of fluid as always been very smooth to operate.

Also, regarding the oil, per the specs of the manufacturer of my short block, I use Shell Rotella T Triple Protection 10w40. It's actually heavy duty diesel oil but that's what they recommended to use. They said I could switch to Mobil 1 but as Rich stated, full synthetic will find an place to escape, any chance it has too leak out, it will. That the only reason I haven't switched to it, I currently don't have any leaks.

[rich weyand]

That zddplus looks like good stuff, where can i get it?

Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=zddpplus

[rich weyand]

I can palm the wheel lock-to-lock at 700 rpm idle while stationary on dry pavement.

I can do this also but with 1 finger using Dex 6 in the p/s system. But for some strange reason my p/s no matter The condition or type of fluid as always been very smooth to operate.

Yeah, but I'm doing it on a lifted K with 31x10.5 BFGs on the front.