Bent Intake Valve?

[gunrac]

Tools are starting to take a bite out of my wallet. Ready to go together now. Read where it is important to chase my bolt holes w/bottoming out taps.
 I contacted a man that called them a plug tap. Stressed, that he thought it was the same, but wouldn't commit to it.  Is this the same thing?

[gunrac]

found answer....yes the same on tap names. Still concerned about EGR valve difference tho, ....

[bd]

Both valves look like service replacement parts.  The pintle seat protrusion should be of no real concern as long as it enters the hole in the manifold and the valve flange fits flush to the gasket surface.

A bottoming tap is NOT the same as a plug tap.  A plug tap has a longer taper (3-5 threads), a bottoming tap is a very short, abrupt taper (1-2 threads).  However, the head bolt holes in the V8 block open into the water jackets - they are not blind.  A standard tap, if you already have one, will work fine. 

Unless the head bolts are fairly new, I recommend replacing them.  Either way, DO NOT chase the threads on the head bolts - use a wire wheel.  Head bolt threads are rolled, not cut.  And, be sure to coat the threads with a good quality Teflon paste sealer.

[gunrac]

THX again bd. ....bolts are wire wheeled. Picked up ARC thread sealer also. Exasht manifold bolts into head will be replaced. The reassurance is a big plus. 

[gunrac]

K' .....another, I don't know the answer to question. I went to adjust my 1st. series of valves yesterday. All went good. I tightened them up till I could no longer turn the push-rod, gave them another 3/4 turn, called it done. Well, I was putting on the other set of rockers, and I dropped the last nut. Fell right down the exhaust manifold on the side I could not get the down pipe bolts out of. No big deal, got another nut, was going to finish today. Checking yesterday's work before I turned engine over, I could turn all the push-rods again. Should I worry about this or leave them an call done on the #1 TDC series. Thinking all I done was kick the oil out of the lifters......I'm not sure on this.

[bd]

STOP!  Assuming a factory camshaft, read the valve adjustment procedure in the factory manual.  It sounds like you have the valves misadjusted.  Double check them now, before you start it.  Follow the procedure in the manual.  If you have a performance cam, follow the Exhaust Opening Intake Closing (EOIC) method described by COMP cams in their article How To Set And Adjust Valve Lash Like A Pro.

Tip:  The idea is to remove the free floating, end-to-end lash from the valve train to zero, then tighten the rocker nuts one full additional turn to center the pistons in the lifters.  Following the factory procedure, back the rocker nuts off until you can feel/see end-to-end play in the push rods with the lifters on the heels of the cam lobes.  Tighten each rocker nut while moving the respective pushrod end-to-end and spinning it until you just remove the free play.  You may feel a slight increase in resistance while rotating the pushrod, but do not rely on that.  Then tighten 3/4 to one full additional turn, adjusting all of the valves using the exact same preload.  It is not difficult to do, but you must pay close attention and be methodical.  Depending on whether you pre-filled the lifters with oil, the pushrod may still spin (w/o end-play) or it may feel tight until the lifter bleeds down.  Once all the lifters are adjusted, some will spin and some will be tight, depending on where the lifter is on its cam lobe.

[gunrac]

Stock 305 TBI.
When I set up, I rolled the engine over to what I thought was TDC, on #1 compression stroke, by watching for lifter movement. When I had no lifter movement while bringing the timing marks to mash at zero degrees, in my weak mind, I considered this to be on the compression stroke. Rolling 1 more full turn, I had  lifter movement while coming back in to zero. I done this a few times thinking I was zero on the compression stroke, w/no movement. Now, I followed the sequence as to the manual, adjusting these valves only, and not turning the engine at all.
— Exhaust - 1, 3, 4, 8
— Intake - 1, 2, 5, 7
But I was only turning the push-rods w/my fingers until I couldn't turn again, taking my time to find the sweet spot for spin and stop,  then gave them another 3/4 turn. Right or wrong? Maybe I'm off on my theory of being on the compression stroke.  I don't know now.

Should I back the rockers off and strictly watch to get zero clearance at valve and rocker arm? I thought by just doing the PR spin, I was accomplishing the same thing.
After going out yesterday, and before turning engine over to bring up #6, I thought I better check work I had already done. I was again able to spin PR's, I just quit right there an thought I better ask for more advice.


 
   

[bd]

Ron, my only concern with your procedure is this...

... I was only turning the push-rods w/my fingers until I couldn't turn again, taking my time to find the sweet spot for spin and stop, then gave them another 3/4 turn.  Right or wrong? ...

Your method, the way you described it, implies that you over-preloaded the lifters.  Finding the "sweet spot," as you called it, is a matter of reducing valve train free lash to exactly zero, before preloading the lifters.  This is achieved by backing the rocker nut off until you can feel and see end-play between the pushrod and the rocker arm.  In other words, while lightly holding the pushrod into its seat in the lifter body, you can wiggle the rocker arm up and down and feel a small gap between the end of the pushrod and the rocker arm.  Once you can feel some play, slowly tighten the rocker arm nut until the play just disappears.  That is zero lash.  Now, tighten the nut 3/4 additional turn and you are done adjusting that valve.  Each valve is adjusted this way, in turn, following the procedure in the factory manual.

If you are not confident that you made the adjustment this way, it is easy enough to correct it now, before installing the valve covers.

[gunrac]

Ron, my only concern with your procedure is this...

... I was only turning the push-rods w/my fingers until I couldn't turn again, taking my time to find the sweet spot for spin and stop, then gave them another 3/4 turn.  Right or wrong? ...

Your method, the way you described it, implies that you over-preloaded the lifters.  Finding the "sweet spot," as you called it, is a matter of reducing valve train free lash to exactly zero, before preloading the lifters.  This is achieved by backing the rocker nut off until you can feel and see end-play between the pushrod and the rocker arm.  In other words, while lightly holding the pushrod into its seat in the lifter body, you can wiggle the rocker arm up and down and feel a small gap between the end of the pushrod and the rocker arm.  Once you can feel some play, slowly tighten the rocker arm nut until the play just disappears.  That is zero lash.  Now, tighten the nut 3/4 additional turn and you are done adjusting that valve.  Each valve is adjusted this way, in turn, following the procedure in the factory manual.

If you are not confident that you made the adjustment this way, it is easy enough to correct it now, before installing the valve covers.

.

I'm now glad I stopped when I did. Yes, going by my procedure, I was way over tightening them. I now understand the correct way as you described.
My question now is, since I now have pushed the oil out of the lifter's, won't I have to get oil back into them somehow? 

[bd]

Unnecessary.  Had you torn the engine completely apart, I would recommend pre-oiling the engine using an oil pump priming tool through the distributor hole at the back of the intake manifold just before starting it up for the first time.  Just pulling the heads there should be plenty of oil retained in the lubrication system to build oil pressure almost immediately.  At most, the valve train may lightly rattle for two to three seconds.

[gunrac]

Oil coolant lines that go into radiator, they have a plastic type seal at the fitting. Can I get away w/using rubber o-rings?"

[bd]

Engine oil cooler or transmission lines?

The plastic piece is a retainer that locks the hose into its connector.  The connectors and plastic retainers are serviceable.  The hose seals with Viton o-rings.

[gunrac]

engine.......line's run from oil filter area to radiator. They show plastic for replacement, and that is what was in it, noticed they separated somewhat before I reassembled. Naturally, you can't buy just the 2 little seal's. But you can get a kit for 12-14 bucks.......

[gunrac]

O-ring's took care of oil cooler lines. Completely back together now. Fired right up, never done anything except add coolant. I made a 15 mi. rd. trip to get y-pipe welded back together. Really seemed to be  running great, in town and freeway, no hesitation. Timing is very close, crisp start and shut-off, idol's 8-900 and 5-600 in gear.

The check engine light did come on during the return trip back. Will stop at Advance an hook up there scanner, go from there. I replaced the EGR, IAC, CTS and ECT sensor's. But still haven't checked a couple other things, fuel pressure, vacuum, MAP and the TPS sensor's. If you think of anything I'm missing, let me know.

Want to TY all for the help on this project, and a special THX to bd, I probably would't have done this on my own w/out his advice. He really saved my bacon on the valve adjustment. 

[bd]

The check engine light did come on during the return trip back.  Will stop at Advance an hook up there scanner, go from there.  I replaced the EGR, IAC, CTS and ECT sensor's.  But still haven't checked a couple other things, fuel pressure, vacuum, MAP and the TPS sensor's.  If you think of anything I'm missing, let me know.

Accept a pat on the back and a well done!  You did good!

Rounding the project out, make sure the timing is not over advanced - number 7 spark plug and valve were severely overheated.  Check the items you noted above to verify beyond any doubt there are no vacuum leaks, the system is operating with proper fuel pressure, the MAP is within calibration, and the TPS base setting is correct while providing a smooth voltage transition to the ECM with throttle opening and closing.  The references you'll need are in the Technical Pages of the Forum and the GM service manuals.  If not previously inspected, visually verify injector spray pattern and delivery.  Replace the fuel filter if not recently done.  Did you migrate to colder plugs or continue using the CR43TS?