After header install no fuel pump

[1Chevy]

So i just finished up my header install on my 82 c10 454 "swapped ". my inline fuel pump did not start up when i turned key. Its a mr gasket i bought temporarily about 4 weeks ago but i got a holley red ready for install. But i just dont think that pump suddenly quit. Everything else works. Truck turns over, lights functions. The only thing i could think of was a ground issue.
But only thing i disconnected was the starter and installed some 90° plug wires.

There were 3 wires bolted to the starter. I know i pulled 2 of the same stud but can't recall pulling off 3 from the same stud. There is a thick cable from the battery and 2 other thinner cables cant tell were there coming from yet. They are on the same stud currently . But after some google searches that seems wrong. But if this a problem would everything else work but fuel pump? Fuel pump is grounded to the frame just a fyi. Any ideas?  I know i can just swap the holley in a but i cant do it till the weekend and i really wanna make sure i got my electrical squared first.

[gunrac]

Where is your pump mounted? Should be semi close to tank.
Is there a fuel filter before the pump? Should be.

Did you grind away rust to shiny metal before hooking your unit and or  ground wire?  Star washers are a plus.

You said "short-cutting" so I'm assuming it is wired into ignition side of starter solenoid. You can use a jump wire from positive side of batt. to positive wire on pump wire to make sure pump operates. Unhook it from from your hot source 1st. Also, unhook hose from carb. You will hear it buss w/a clicking noise if it is operating an pushing fuel. 

For safety reasons, you should think about wiring thru your oil pressure switch. May save your life if you ever get into a bad accident.

[1Chevy]

The pump is mounted withing 12inches from the tank and below the tank and yes the there is a fuel filter before the pump and after near the carb.
 I did not grind the location of the ground wire but in with lock washers, might go back do that thanks.

Not sure what you mean by "short cutting"  but i will give the jump wire a shot. Im considering the oil pressure switch for the holley or an inertia switch. 

Still thinking all 3 wires shouldn't be on the same stud as far as the starter goes. Gonna get under there and see what those studs are labeled.

[roundhouse]

Get a hand vacuum pump at auto parts store and vac the fuel thru the pump

Mine worked fine until it lost its prime.    Then you had to vac the fuel thru it to prime it again


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[bd]

The 1982 C10 should have two 16-gauge red fusible links (that share a common eye terminal) connected to the 3/8" stud on the starter solenoid along with the positive cable from the battery.  In addition, there should be a 10-gauge purple wire connected to the adjacent #10 "S" terminal of the solenoid.  It's difficult to incorrectly connect the wires that attach to the two studs, because one is 3/8" in diameter and the other is closer to 1/8".  The difference in terminal size is obvious.

Although there is contention on this point, star washers are not a good choice for use in electrical connections in wet or corrosive environments, because they decrease the area of metal-to-metal contact while allowing moisture and salt penetration into the connection.  It is better to use flat terminals that are tightly secured to burnished bare metal and liberally coated with a good quality antioxidant paste to repel moisture and corrosive salts.  Star washers are better suited to dry environments, especially those subject to vibration.

If you have a test light or voltmeter, check for power to the pump.  If you can hear or feel the pump operating, prime it.

[1Chevy]

The 1982 C10 should have two 16-gauge red fusible links (that share a common eye terminal) connected to the 3/8" stud on the starter solenoid along with the positive cable from the battery.  In addition, there should be a 10-gauge purple wire connected to the adjacent #10 "S" terminal of the solenoid.  It's difficult to incorrectly connect the wires that attach to the two studs, because one is 3/8" in diameter and the other is closer to 1/8".  The difference in terminal size is obvious.

Although there is contention on this point, star washers are not a good choice for use in electrical connections in wet or corrosive environments, because they decrease the area of metal-to-metal contact while allowing moisture and salt penetration into the connection.  It is better to use flat terminals that are tightly secured to burnished bare metal and liberally coated with a good quality antioxidant paste to repel moisture and corrosive salts.  Star washers are better suited to dry environments, especially those subject to vibration.

If you have a test light or voltmeter, check for power to the pump.  If you can hear or feel the pump operating, prime it.

Thanks thats the info i was looking for. Its definitely wired wrong. Hopefully i can get under there before work and correct it and see what happens. Tried the jump from battery method gunrac mention still nothing. The pump it pretty loud and its silent at this point. Gotta swap meet im trying to get it ready for the weekend and some fishing

[1Chevy]

Well the alternator is wired correctly. Pump is getting power. Gonna go ahead and swap in the holley and see of it starts up