Cab & front clip swap questions...

[ThisGuy]

It's been a while since I've made any progress toward my current K10 project, but I'm finally nearing the cab swap portion. My donor truck was a 76 manual C10 cab (sitting on an 82 K20 LWB frame) and I'll be putting it onto my running 76 automatic K10 SWB frame.

I have a few questions before I go full-tilt with this though.

1) Obviously the 2wd and 4wd cabs have different humps for the transfer case (or lack of), is it best to cut out the high hump and the elevated portion behind it and swap it into the 2wd keeper cab or just use a body lift to accommodate the transfer case? I have an NP203 if it makes any difference. If I can leave the low hump in, I'm interested in going with the body lift option if it doesn't present any additional issues. Then just cut out for the NP203 shifter? What size body lift would be necessary 2", 3"?

If cutting, whats the best practice? Cut a small bit larger than necessary out of 4WD can to act as a flange and seal/bolt said flange into 2WD cab or cut and weld it in?None of that really sounds all that interesting given how particular I am about details. I'd lose it over alignment and finishing I think. But, in the end, I want to do it right- so if cutting is a smarter option than the body mount I'm looking to hear that argument.


Heres the donor cab with low hump. Has tilt steering column and I dig the Snap-on handle shifter, so that'll have to stay in the cab for the swap.





Here is the existing cab and hump




2) Donor cab is a non AC cab, I would like to retain the AC functionality from the other cab though. How major of firewall modification need to happen to make this a possibility in the non AC cab? Will need to hook up the disconnected AC equipment as well. From what I've read, to update from R12 to R134a I need to replace at the least the two taps, one high pressure, the other, the low pressure tap. As well as the dryer and orifice? I don't have the equipment or ability to flush/vacuum the system, so I'm hoping to acquire the necessary minimum replacement parts and have a qualified individual give it a shot if it's reasonably priced. If not, the windows still roll down I guess 

3) Anybody have experience with and of the bedliner material on the inside of the cab? Is the DIY roll on stuff any good? Haven't looked yet, but I imagine the Line-x and Rhino liner are pretty spend $$ for that kind of job. I'd like to do what I can to keep the cab floor from rusting again after the last owner replaced the floor panels and rockers etc

I'm sure there's about a hundred different ways to physically perform the swap, I'm planning to use my neighbor's 2-post lift to get that part done. Before I start lifting though, I want to make sure I have everything accounted for that needs disconnecting.
-Wiring (I have a harness in the new cab but I don't believe it contains any of the goodies for AC, so I'm planning to swap the harness from the old cab)
-steering shaft (nearer the firewall is where I think I'd like to disconnect?)
-parking brake cables
-hard brake lines, or in my case, I'm hoping to leave the whole booster and MC attached to the good drivetrain and mount to new firewall since I just replaced that bit
-Cab mounts

What am I forgetting? Sorry for rambling, I just like to have a plan on paper before just rushing in.

Thanks all! Looking forward to continuing this project again... much more than my fiancé is 

[kcwis]

Would you consider selling the non a/c heater box and blower housing?

[86HighSierra]

I have done two of the 2wd to 4wd cab swapd, and neither time have i had to cut the hump. I was sble to bolt cab on and cut out for linkage and go. Im currently foing my third swap. Havent cut ot out yet or put tranny and transfercade in yet but it lookd like it will clear.
Truck had 2" suspension lift on first two swaps. And a 6" all suspension no body lift this third time around.

[ThisGuy]

Would you consider selling the non a/c heater box and blower housing?

Possibly. Honestly, I will probably be looking to sell the entire LWB frame and not so great cab/front clip after the swap. Would be nice to have just one truck sitting in the driveway. Then there's the heaps of extra and duplicate parts and pieces I'd like to consolidate and get rid of at that point. But with current (and appropriate) restrictions on buying/selling parts on this forum, I'll wait until I am a contributing member to start pedaling those items, and more than likely buying plenty of other parts from the classified section 

[ThisGuy]

I have done two of the 2wd to 4wd cab swapd, and neither time have i had to cut the hump. I was sble to bolt cab on and cut out for linkage and go. Im currently foing my third swap. Havent cut ot out yet or put tranny and transfercade in yet but it lookd like it will clear.
Truck had 2" suspension lift on first two swaps. And a 6" all suspension no body lift this third time around.

Interesting, do you happen to have any pictures of the swap process or more specifically the humps during that process? I'm having a hard time conceptualizin how a low hump would leave any room for the transfer case behind it, with or without a suspension lift. Seems to me that regardless of a suspension lift, that doesn't change the orientation of the cab floor to the frame, and isn't the frame what dictates the height of the transfer case? Feels like unless I create additional space between the frame and cab floor (body lift) or cut out the area behind the bolt in hump, the cab is going to hit that t-case before finding its proper resting place on the mounts?

Looking under the cab now there's only an inch or so of clearance between floor and top of the t-case. I have a ~4" suspension lift, so I can't fathom how putting a 2WD cab without the additional room would work for me

[Blazin]

I have done several C cabs onto K frames. I always cut the hump out. Weld in the part under the seat. make the part over the transmission bolt in. The urethane tape used for metal roofing works good for a gasket between the hump, and the floor. I use self drilling screws with a 3/8" or 7/16" hex head on them to hold it down.
As far as the column, I always take them apart at the rag joint on the box.

[ThisGuy]

Thanks for confirming Blazin, thinking that's the way I'll be going. I'm talking myself out of a body lift for all the obvious reasons... bumper gaps, steering linkage, shifter etc. I like the idea of retaining the bolt in aspect of the hump over the transmission. Will have to get some assistance with cutting and welding and/or get more comfortable with that part myself.

Hail just totaled my everyday driver (nissan altima) and I'm planning to buy it back as a salvage because it's all cosmetic. Hoping to put a little bit more money toward getting this k10 moving a bit faster! Always a silver lining I suppose