134A A/C in 74 C10..... 84-87 Condenser in 74 C10

[MrFiveOh]

I have all the required pieced to install 134A A/C from a 1984 C10 in my truck except the condenser, I dont have a condenser currently installed at all. It was recommended I get a parallel flow condenser. I can only find one for a 84-87 model. My question is will a 84-87 Condenser fit/work in a 1974 C10?

Edit: I  guess the big question is, Has anyone installed a parallel flow condenser from an 84-87 Square in a 73-74 C10 as part of upgrading the A/C from R12 to 134A?

Thanks

[blazer74]

Later models condenser mounts on the back side of the radiator support.

1974 mounts in front of the radiator support behind the grill. The high side line routes behind the grill also unlike the later models that run across the top of the radiator area.

If you can find a way to mount it behind the grill and hook up the lines.

Parallel flow is better for R134.

[LTZ C20]

Also, you don't have to swap all the parts to use R134. Most of the parts can be flushed and reused. My truck originally had R12, as did all squares with ac and I still have the original condenser and evaporator. Ac blows nice and cold.

[MrFiveOh]

I understand that, the only thing i had from the old AC setup was the orifice, which is being replaced with new

[MrFiveOh]

Also, you don't have to swap all the parts to use R134. Most of the parts can be flushed and reused. My truck originally had R12, as did all squares with ac and I still have the original condenser and evaporator. Ac blows nice and cold.

I also have one of those smaller compressors.

[hatzie]

The R4 will cool with R134a but not as well as the A6 that came on the 1974 or the later HT6 compressors GM used on the late 90's T400 chassis.

The 1984 condenser will not mount in the stock 1974 location.  As noted above the 1973 to probably 1980 mounted between the radiator support and the grille.  I'd take some measurements and get a condenser that will cover the hole in the rad support fairly well. 
Hard lines from any aftermarket condenser will need to be fabbed to run to either stock passthroughs or new holes in the rad support.  The parallel flow condenser will be more efficient.  Mine will freeze me out of the 76 with a stock 1998 HT compressor on a 1998 6.5L diesel engine.

If you intend to use the R4 Radial compressor you'll need to be sure all the hard components (evaporator, hard lines, and condenser) are absolutely clear of ALL the old compressor oil.  The R4 is not forgiving at all of any deficiencies in the charge level or any extra oil floating around in the system in hot climates like Austin, TX.

The 1974 had a Throttling Expansion Valve TXV on the evaporator not an orifice valve. 
What are you calling the Orifice? Picture?
Did you get the 1984 evaporator and accumulator?  You want to keep the mix N match to a minimum.

[hatzie]

One more note...

The charge level of whatever refrigerant you want to use will need to be determined by cooling and pressures.  You can't interpolate the number of lbs of refrigerant based on what the old R12 system took. 
I posted the JungleEddy method for charging an AC system with a non OEM refrigerant on this or one of the other squarebody boards.  It works with R134a and the Hydrocarbon refrigerant blends.

[MrFiveOh]

Hattie:  all the parts I have are from an 84, the compressor looks like this..http://m.oreillyauto.com/h5/r/oap/site/c/detail/MRY0/57221/02645.oap?year=1984&make=Chevrolet&model=C10%2BPickup%2BRWD&vi=5000632&ck=Search_A%21s%21C+Compressor_5000632_-1&search=true&keyword=A/C%20Compressor

I sorry for confusion I guess I am mixing the orifice and accumulator it's the silver canister attatched to the box on the passenger side. Mix and match is very minimal. I just need a condensor.

[blazer74]

My 74 k5 is not TXV. It is an  early design brass orifice tube. It uses a temp probe for cycling. Which I have converted to a pressure a switch.

[Tazman]

Please don't mind me jumping here but I have a question on A/C also. I converted mine a few years ago and it was well worth it. Yet it seems to work the engine hard if you are sitting still. Can this be resolved?

[hatzie]

My 74 k5 is not TXV. It is an  early design brass orifice tube. It uses a temp probe for cycling. Which I have converted to a pressure a switch.

Interesting.  My 76 K20 Camper Special was TXV built in Fresno.  Wonder how GM determined what system was installed. 

Hattie:  all the parts I have are from an 84, the compressor looks like this..http://m.oreillyauto.com/h5/r/oap/site/c/detail/MRY0/57221/02645.oap?year=1984&make=Chevrolet&model=C10%2BPickup%2BRWD&vi=5000632&ck=Search_A%21s%21C+Compressor_5000632_-1&search=true&keyword=A/C%20Compressor

I sorry for confusion I guess I am mixing the orifice and accumulator it's the silver canister attatched to the box on the passenger side. Mix and match is very minimal. I just need a condensor.

That's an R4 compressor.

You'll need to replace the accumulator/drier with a new one any time you open the system or change refrigerant.  It contains the refrigerant drier desiccant and can trap oil.  Don't break the seals to install till you're ready to close the system and vac it down.  Try to pick a dry day to close up and vac down or sweep with inert gas. The desiccant loads up with moisture pretty fast.



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[blazer74]

Interesting.  My 76 K20 Camper Special was TXV built in Fresno.  Wonder how GM determined what system was installed. 


Good question. I know cadillac  was still using TXV at the same time period.

Got me interested now. Wonder what the 73 1/2 tons had.



^This is mine with the a newer accumulator.

[MrFiveOh]

I hope to do this swap this weekend. I will take plenty of pics as i do this, mainly for those who have a 73-74 model that will run into issue i have.

[MrFiveOh]

I have a new accumulator, Luckily its been pretty dry here in Austin, gonna try to install this weekend. Friend of mine said 84 condenser should work and if all fails he can fab it to work properly and clean.

[hatzie]

I have a new accumulator, Luckily its been pretty dry here in Austin, gonna try to install this weekend. Friend of mine said 84 condenser should work and if all fails he can fab it to work properly and clean.

Flush the old oil out of the lines, evaporator, & condenser.  Too much oil will insulate them and keep the ac from moving heat properly.  Drain and refill the R4 compressor with ester oil from a new sealed can. Refrigerant oil is hygroscopic like brake fluid so opened and plastic cans are not a good idea.  Ester oil will not get angry about any leftover mineral oil in the compressor.

The service manuals have the compressor and total system oil fill volume.  Don't overfill and don't underfill.
The compressor will not hold the full oil charge for the system.  You'll need an oil injector to finish the fill from whatever the compressor took to full.

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** EDIT **  I would reccomend using oil with UV dye added.  It will allow you to track down any leaks that develop using a black light bulb.