Need 1980 K10 stock steering arm

[jbrow1]

Does anybody (online or Napa, etc.) have stock steering arms for 1980 K10?  All I find from a quick google search are aftermarket ones for 4" lifts. 

[winky]

i may be wrong but i believe this will work?

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/slf-3000/reviews

can be used up to 4" lift, i think you can use it at stock height. it was redesigned to fix the steering isues common on our trucks. Im sure you can call customer service and talk with someone who can verify.

[Irish_Alley]

i may be wrong but i believe this will work?

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/slf-3000/reviews

can be used up to 4" lift, i think you can use it at stock height. it was redesigned to fix the steering isues common on our trucks. Im sure you can call customer service and talk with someone who can verify.

i would hold off on this. i dont see anything saying it will work for a stock height truck. maybe theres something that i missed, but are you missing your old one?

[winky]

yup, thats why i mentioned calling customer service

[blazer74]

A quick search shows nothing aftermarket,
They are a mother to remove so a junk yard may be difficult.
You also may need the 3 cones and new nuts are a must.

[jbrow1]

I got the $54 one from Summit, delivered today.  Looks like it should work ok.  Guess I should take some pics before and after and post them up for future folks with this question.

The stock steering arm on mine, the hole is too wobbled out for the drag-link joint to mate up properly to it. 

I did put 3/4" leafs and a 1" block under them b/c I have a plow on the truck half the time.

Might be a couple weeks, but I'll get back with how it worked out.  If nothing else, I figured I could have a machine shop weld the original up, then mill it back out to the proper fit for the drag-link joint to fit back up to it.  We'll see. 

Thanks for the replies

[roundhouse]

Wow
You're gonna have fun removing the arm
And find some YouTube video.  Once you get the nuts off there are locking cones in between the studs an the arm that have to come out before the arm will come off


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[Jason S]

I got the $54 one from Summit, delivered today.  Looks like it should work ok.  Guess I should take some pics before and after and post them up for future folks with this question.

If you can,  post some photos (it may help somebody else in the future).

I did put 3/4" leafs and a 1" block under them b/c I have a plow on the truck half the time.

Do you have the 1" lift blocks under the front springs?

[jbrow1]

I got the $54 one from Summit, delivered today.  Looks like it should work ok.  Guess I should take some pics before and after and post them up for future folks with this question.

If you can,  post some photos (it may help somebody else in the future).

I did put 3/4" leafs and a 1" block under them b/c I have a plow on the truck half the time.

Do you have the 1" lift blocks under the front springs?

I do have 1" lift blocks under the front springs.  I have the same setup on my 1986 3/4 ton that I have ran for 1.5 decades problem free this way, plowing the snot out of the ole girl to boot.  I don't offroad though, and my driving is done primarily under the speed limit (no highway).  I know blocks aren't recommended under the front springs. 

I got the arm off today.  I PB Blaster'd it for a week previous.  I think that helped get the nuts off.  Then heated up with a torch the other day and whacked it a bit with a 3lb sledge.  Nothing.

Took brakes, rotor, axle, all the stuff off today and heated it up good.  Whacked it even harder.  Heated up more, melted candle wax on it.  Whacked the crap out of it more.  Ruined my ball joints.  Finally removed the entire knuckle from the axle and let it sit for a few hours until it cooled all the way down.  Came back later and since it was laying on the grass, tee'd it up with a real sledge, and the thing popped off.  The cones came out and all and will be re-useable.  The new steering arm from Summit came with new nuts, but not new cones. 

No before pics, because it's been like 95* in the shade and the truck is sitting full on in the sun in the driveway.  Must've lost five pounds boxing that thing with the 3-pounder this afternoon.

I think the trick was letting it fully cool.  I also think (as I read), the candle wax got in between the different mating surfaces and as it cooled either didn't let it suck back together, or took up enough space that it helped pop the cones up just a bit, loosening everything up.  I pounded around the lower seam, and in between the studs with an air hammer with a flat bit.  Didn't seem to do much, but I'm sure the vibrations helped some. 

If I had it to do over again, I'd remove the entire knuckle from the truck from the start, heat it up good and hot, then beat on it with a big sledge as it laid on the lawn.  I wouldn't even mess around trying to do it on the truck again.  It was my first instinct, and I should have listened to it. 

I'll get some pics snapped and try to post them in the next week. 

[jbrow1]

Well as far as I can see right now, the steering arm from Summit will not work.  Will be returning that one this week.

Found a stock steering arm for it.  Good to go when it gets here middle of the week.