What is this black gunk in the bulkhead connector?

[mjreynolds928]

Any ideas on what to do here?

[mjreynolds928]

Sorry the wrong title. Trying to figure out if I can remove the "gunk" that holds and prob protect the wires going into the fuse panel from engine side


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[LTZ C20]

It's a sealer and dielectric type substance. Do not remove it unless you plan to reseal the bulk head connection with an equal or greater product. 

[mjreynolds928]

If I remove it to repair the wires, can I replace with black rtv or silicone substance?


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[LTZ C20]

A dielectric type sealer would be better suited. What is wrong with the wires you are trying to repair?

[mjreynolds928]

They are shorting out systems, such as the wiper motor. The wires between the fuse panel to the wiper motor are intact. The wiper motor works if I jump the fuse with a hard wire. The previous owner put a 40 amp fuse in this location (which is WAY to big). Also, I smell an electrical burning scent when I am driving and the wires are getting hot. So I am assuming they are shorting out because of the ridiculously large fuses. So I was wondering if replace the wires from the motor to the fuse panel and remove all un-used wires that are connected, then reseal the panel.


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[mjreynolds928]

And I did remove the wiper motor fuse. And I should mention the electric window motors burned out as well. I have replaced them, but haven't really re-wired that system yet


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[bd]

That "gunk" is a non-hardening antioxidant and sealer.  It rejects moisture and dust and effectively inhibits oxidation of the electrical connections.  It also prevents nominal airflow through the firewall bulkhead connector.  It is electrically benign, if ugly, albeit should not be removed.  A decent replacement following bulkhead repairs is marketed by Truck-Lite; though nearly any anti-corrosion paste available in hardware store electrical departments is suitable.

NEVER use RTV or silicone sealer!  Besides making subsequent bulkhead service or wiring repairs a PITA, silicone is corrosive and electrically conductive until cured.  Once cured, it can inhibit continuity through the connection.

Dielectric paste is not the best choice either.  A "dielectric" is an insulator.  Broadly marketed dielectric grease is employed more commonly as a heat sink compound and anti-seize, and only secondarily as a corrosion inhibitor to reject water.

They are shorting out systems, such as the wiper motor. The wires between the fuse panel to the wiper motor are intact. The wiper motor works if I jump the fuse with a hard wire. The previous owner put a 40 amp fuse in this location (which is WAY to big). Also, I smell an electrical burning scent when I am driving and the wires are getting hot. So I am assuming they are shorting out because of the ridiculously large fuses. So I was wondering if replace the wires from the motor to the fuse panel and remove all un-used wires that are connected, then reseal the panel.

Which wires are getting hot?  The wiper motor?  Unplug the wiper motor to see if the odor and symptoms stop.  I agree a 40-amp fuse is too big and may result in an electrical fire.  Before going to such an extensive "repair," you need to determine the actual cause. 

[mjreynolds928]

That "gunk" is a non-hardening antioxidant and sealer.  It rejects moisture and dust and effectively inhibits oxidation of the electrical connections.  It also prevents nominal airflow through the firewall bulkhead connector.  It is electrically benign, if ugly, albeit should not be removed.  A decent replacement following bulkhead repairs is marketed by Truck-Lite; though nearly any anti-corrosion paste available in hardware store electrical departments is suitable.

NEVER use RTV or silicone sealer!  Besides making subsequent bulkhead service or wiring repairs a PITA, silicone is corrosive and electrically conductive until cured.  Once cured, it can inhibit continuity through the connection.

Dielectric paste is not the best choice either.  A "dielectric" is an insulator.  Broadly marketed dielectric grease is employed more commonly as a heat sink compound and anti-seize, and only secondarily as a corrosion inhibitor to reject water.

They are shorting out systems, such as the wiper motor. The wires between the fuse panel to the wiper motor are intact. The wiper motor works if I jump the fuse with a hard wire. The previous owner put a 40 amp fuse in this location (which is WAY to big). Also, I smell an electrical burning scent when I am driving and the wires are getting hot. So I am assuming they are shorting out because of the ridiculously large fuses. So I was wondering if replace the wires from the motor to the fuse panel and remove all un-used wires that are connected, then reseal the panel.

Which wires are getting hot?  The wiper motor?  Unplug the wiper motor to see if the odor and symptoms stop.  I agree a 40-amp fuse is too big and may result in an electrical fire.  Before going to such an extensive "repair," you need to determine the actual cause.

I have disconnected the wiper motor and pulled the fused. I don't know where the problem is, but I think I will be cutting all corrugated piping covers and chasing each wire from the power to the source. Thanks for the info on dielectric compounds.


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[bd]

The solution may not be so complicated as to require stripping the loom.  I'd start by removing the wires stuffed under the fuses in the fuse box.  If this thread is regarding your 85 C10, there shouldn't be anything drawing power from the CHOKE fuse except the choke heater on the passenger side of the carburetor.  A 40-amp fuse in the 20-amp choke circuit is crazy.  So, figure out what that is about.  Ignition power routes from the ignition switch to the choke fuse via an orange wire (Ckt 300) then runs from the fuse through the firewall bulkhead connector to a two-prong oil pressure switch via a pink wire with white stripe (Ckt 350).  The oil pressure switch is located either in the block directly above the oil filter or at the back of the intake manifold, next to the distributor.

Did the smoke go away after you unplugged the wiper motor?

[roundhouse]

You need to cleanup the fuse box.
Figure out what all the extra wires do
Install the proper size fuses

We had some hard to find electrical problems and they all were caused by the bulkhead connection
It plugs into itself from each side and some of the plugs were broken or  overheated and lost their springiness

We wound up having to drill a new home beside the bulkhead , install a rubber grommet and bypass the big connector with the affected wires

Get a good quality test light
And a good wiring diagram
And get ready to spend some quality time all pretzeled under the dash


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[mjreynolds928]

It did stop smoking after pulling fuse. But I still smell hot electrical smell. I agree with what you are saying. I like this forum where I can have a sounding board and real good responses. Thanks for your help. After reading these responses, I think I will take my photo and start removing all wires and fuses and only replace the wires that are needed. Other wires might be stripped and shorting out on metal somewhere.


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