SM465 Leak Help

[tc197]

Bell housing is off. Clutch plates are off. Looking at the flywheel and pilot bearing finally. Now to decide what to replace while im here.

[tc197]

Pulled the flywheel off and took a trip to the parts store. Picked up a new flywheel, clutch kit with throwout and pilot, fluids, and some cleaner for 200$ and rented a pilot bearing puller for free. Should have everything I need to replace the bearings, clutch, and flywheel and then just put everything else back together.

Rear main seal looked good, no leaks or marks so im not touching that for now. Ill probably be dropping a new motor in within a year or two anyways.

Ill keep you updated in the morning when I get back to it. Thanks for the help, lots of info around this site.

[tc197]

Got the pilot bearing out this morning.

Put the bew pilot bearing in, mounted the new flywheel and attached the new clutch. Everything went pretty smooth considering i dont know what im doing. Cleaning off the bell housing now before I reinstall it. Families coming over for the day though so i most likely wont get any more done until tonight/tomorrow.

[1967KaiserM715]

Sounds like you do know what your doing- do you have a torque wrench(even borrow one) for the flywheel bolts and pressure plate? Pressure plate is probably the most important one, as you can over-tighten the pressure plate and warp it(rare but still possible)


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[tc197]

I do have a torque wrench. Torqued the flywheel to 60lbs and the pressure plate to 35 lbs. Found these numbers online and went with it. Used some brake cleaner on the flywheel and clutch plate before installing it too to get any oil off. Thanks for looking out!

[1967KaiserM715]

no problem, and those numbers sound right, it really does depend on the engine, but typically its 50-90 ft-lbs on flywheel/flexplate bolts, and 20-35 ft lbs on pressure plates. if I remember correctly my 6.5 was 70 ft-lbs flywheel, 20 ft-lbs pressure plate.

[tc197]

http://www.jegs.com/tech-articles/sbc-engine-specs.html

This is where I found my numbers. Its a 5.7 350 so sounded right to me.

[tc197]

Got the bell housing put back on and the trans/tcase back in. Man that sucked. Hopefully
I did it right, i didnt see anything obviously wrong so i guess ill find out in a few. All thats left are the drive shafts and new fluid. Fighting that trans and tcase as one piece on a floor jack in my unpaved driveway was tough.

[tc197]

Guess what!? It was a success! New trans is in, everything shifts good from what i can tell in my driveway, the only thing is my brakes now decided not to work. Pedal is real stiff and wont brake at all until i stand on it and then it just jams the brakes. I dont think i could have screwed this up in my trans work but ill have to investigate and see what the deal is. Im relieved its brakes though and not trans related .

[tc197]

Think I found the solution to my brake issue. Since the motor was tipped way back to get the trans in and out, theres a vacuum line for the brake booster that could have been crushed. Mines super old and rusty so I cant even tell if its broken or not. After reading online as well a common cause when this vacuum line goes is the brakes become hard. Ill be replacing the line in the morning and hopijg to find nice brakig abilities again. At that point ill be able to take a ride with my new trans/clutch/bearings/flywheel etc...

[tc197]

Ran new hose from the motor to booster and voila, i have brakes again. Took for a ride and everything worked great! Just as i was going to leave again i decided to check my lights out, turned the headlights on and the truck died instantly and all power waa cut off. Turned the headlights off and the power stayed cut for about 20 minutes until it randomly came back. Tried to start the truck once power came back and it idles real low and didnt want to stay running. I read online this could be a grounding issue or an issue at the little box next to the brake booster. Time to do some more research.

[1967KaiserM715]

sounds like a short, and the main power going to the junction(little black thing by booster) fried the fusible link(10 gauge if I remember right)

[werewolfx13]

I would say you pinched part of the harness between the bell housing and back of the block. Ditto on likely cooked fusible link. See if you can use an inspection mirror to look over the top of the bell housing. If you did pinch it....bad news...you will have to unbolt and slide the transmission back far enough to repair the damage, tie it up out of the way, and slide the trans back into place. You MIGHT not have to remove it completely, and repair it from the top instead, but you will still have to unbolt the bell housing and move it back far enough to pull the wire out.

When I installed my sm465/np205, I removed my trans tunnel and used an engine hoist through the floor to lift it in place. Little tedious by myself having to get out from under the truck to adjust the height, and once had the drop valve on the hoist creep open ever so slightly and lay the assembly on my chest, but nothing bad enough I couldn't get out from under it. Your tunnel is probably not removable, so this might not help (haven't looked at a truck with a 4 speed with a fixed tunnel, but maybe the shifter hole is big enough?)

[1967KaiserM715]

Shifter hole is definitely too small, it's about 6x8 oval, you could maybe fit 2 fingers down between the hole and tranny.

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[tc197]

Thanks for the input guys.

I would find it hard to believe I pinched a wire in the bell housing, I put that on by itself and its not very heavy or anything. I only saw two wires even hanging low enough to be pinched at all and one plugged into the top of the trans and the other was my speedo cable I think? Can't remember exactly.  I definitely could have pinched something between the back of the block and the firewall because I had to lower the motor a pretty good amount to get everything out and back in. I also pinched my brake vacuum line that runs side by side with the junction so pinching a wire seems feasible to me.

How would I go about replacing/checking that fusible link? Does the junction come out? Where do these wires run to? I see the one run from the alternator, across the block, to around the junction box but then I lose it behind the motor. Classes started up today so I won't be back to the truck until Friday but hopefully I can come up with a solid plan to narrow down the problem before then. Thanks again for the help!