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My idle with A/C On is about 650 rpms in Park and about 450 in Drive.I've tried adjusting the A/C solenoid on the Carb all the way until it touches the throttle bracket. That didn't help much.
Quote from: boulky12 on September 07, 2016, 04:07:07 pmMy idle with A/C On is about 650 rpms in Park and about 450 in Drive.I've tried adjusting the A/C solenoid on the Carb all the way until it touches the throttle bracket. That didn't help much.Is the idle solenoid even energizing? The solenoid's plunger should extend and hold the throttle open whenever the A/C is turned ON. If you're saying that you adjusted the plunger out to touch the throttle lever while the solenoid was de-energized, the engine will idle dangerously high if and when the solenoid actually energizes - possibly fast enough for the vehicle to get away from you! With the idle solenoid's plunger fully extended, engine RPM should be adjusted to about 550 RPM in drive.Use a test light to check for power at the idle solenoid with the A/C running. If there's power to the solenoid and the plunger isn't extending, replace the solenoid. If the circuit is dead but the A/C works, there's an open in the green wire running between the solenoid and the low pressure cycling switch at the accumulator. If the A/C compressor doesn't energize either, then there is a bigger problem - check the fuses.
"Dieseling" or "run on" occurs when too much air enters an engine. Any mechanical problem such as sticky choke linkage, a vacuum leak, an improperly adjusted base idle screw, grossly misadjusted idle solenoid, or worn throttle shaft bore that holds the throttle plates open or bypasses the throttle entirely can result in run on. A properly functioning idle solenoid retracts when power is removed, dropping the throttle linkage to the base idle setting. As long as said mechanical problems do not exist, run on (dieseling) should not occur.