Replacing timing chain all by myself ! What do I need/what should I expect ?

[1979mmx350]

I'm planning on replacing a broken timing chain, water pump, oil pump and power steering pump all in one go. Alternator and belts look good so I'll be reusing those, but I have ordered a Fel Pro gasket and some sealant for the oil pan, and will need new studs to seal it all. Does anyone recommend a specific set that will be long enough or can I find solid replacements at the hardware store? (I lost all but four of them) Anything I may be forgetting?

Will I need any other gaskets or components for the assorted pumps or should those come with them? I don't have any tools whatsoever and plan on hitting Sears soon for whatever I might need. What would you guys recommend in terms of ratchet size/assortment and what size sockets will I need? I do believe I will need a torque wrench, but for the most part I'm completely in the dark so any help will be incredibly appreciated.

Forgot to ask, how much should I shell out for a solid chain replacement? What works better in a street build? Single/double roller or standard non rolling? I understand a single non rolling chain is more durable so I was thinking of going that route with an $80 chain from Cloyes:

https://m.summitracing.com/parts/CLO-C-3039

So far this truck is all stock aside from a Hays clutch, 650 cfm 4 barrel carb and fresh plugs/wires.

Edit: I've been checking out some videos on YouTube and I can't help but feel I'm in over my head. I can't afford to have this done at a shop right now, so investing in tools and learning a little bit about my truck seems like the way to go. Cheers.

[SkinnyG]

You definitely want the one-piece pan gasket from Felpro.  It comes with new hardware.  The one-piece seals SO much better.

Replace the rear main seal while you are there.  Be meticulous in following the instructions so you damage it during the install.  I bought the super expensive Felpro rear main seal, because I didn't want to go back in there.  Again.  Permatex Ultra Black in the corners of the pan gasket and along the main cap join.

Basic Melling oil pump will be fine.  Use a new plastic coupler - it should come with one.

Do a new front main seal.

Basic double roller timing chain will be fine.  If you buy an indexable one, I would advance the cam a couple of degrees (+4°) for more low end grunt (but you don't ~have~ to do this).

It's not as hard as you think it is, but if you have no experience, just take your time and pay attention.  You got this. 

(oh, and put the timing cover back on ~before~ you put the pan back on.)

[Captain Swampy]

All you need for tools is an english set of combination wrenches and a 3/8" drive ratchet set, a gasket scraper or metal putty knife, wire brush, seal puller, and a set of screwdrivers. Craftsmen is fine, or your local parts store may have decent hand tools, or go to Harbor Freight.  I'm in my 40's and still have and use some of the cheap tools I bought when I was a teenager, alongside my Matco, Craftsmen, and Snap-on I've added since.

You will need a harmonic balancer puller and probably should get a timing light. You can rent them from your local parts store if you can't afford them. Buy some brake cleaner and emery cloth (sand paper). Maybe rent an electric impact to use on the harmonic balancer puller. You'll need a drain pan also.

It would be a good time to change the thermostat also. The seal in the timing cover can be driven in with a hammer and a block of wood or steel plate.

[Rattler12]

And don't forget to keep  the indented dots on the crank gear and the timing gear in alignment looking straight at each other so to speak. Crank gear dot at 12 o'clock and timing gear dot at 6. If you don't it will never run.  After you get the oil pan off and remove the timing cover turn the engine over by hand until they align BEFORE taking the timing gear off. It's a lot easier to turn over by hand with the spark plugs out. Use the large balancer bolt screwed back into the crank, a socket and a breaker bar......or a piece of pipe slipped over your ratchet handle. Don't loosen, pull out or otherwise touch the distributor because you don't need to and doing so will just make the job harder. Don't hammer on the balancer to get it back on.  You can use a longer version of the fine thread grade 8 balancer bolt to pull it down a ways and use the stock balancer bolt to finish.

[bd]

Please include Year, Make, Model etc.. when posting

Is this on the '79 C10?

If the timing chain is broken, as in snapped, I recommend a cylinder leak-down test before disassembly.  Doing so will give you a better feel for engine condition.  If the valves aren't opening due to a snapped chain, a compression test will not be as effective as the leak-down test.

Small block service procedures begin on page 6A4-1 of the 1979 Service Manual.  Timing chain replacement can be found under Camshaft replacement on page 6A4-20.  For oil pump and rear main seal, go to pages 6A4-23 and 6A4-27, respectively.

To the extent that you're going to tear the engine down, be sure to check the camshaft lobes and lifters for excessive wear before reassembly.  Cam lobe failures are all too common on GM engines because of motor oil reformulations that have been mandated since the engines were originally manufactured.  You will also be wise to Plastigage the rod and main bearings while you have the oil pan off to replace the oil pump and rear main seal.  Again, look through the service manual to find the respective procedures.  And, peruse the thread rear main seal for some excellent tips by VileZambonie and pics by Lt.Del.

If you want to use oil pan studs instead of bolts, use ARP 234-1901 for black oxide or 434-1901 for stainless steel.

[Stewart G Griffin]

i would think changing the pan and timing cover while the engine is in the car would be a pain (i've only done it with the engine on a stand which you can rotate).  But apparently it's been done thousands of times.

So i guess all you really need is patience and persistence   (and a lift  )

[SkinnyG]

The pan is actually quite easy to change with the engine in the truck.

[Stewart G Griffin]

The pan is actually quite easy to change with the engine in the truck.

In my opinion, no.  But if you can swing it with no problems then great.  i think fel-pro includes those clip things that hold the gasket in place.

Now, i have done transmission pans in the car and that wasn't too bad but you don't have any crossmembers (usually) in the way.

[SkinnyG]

The Felpro one-piece comes with plastic clips to help hold it all in place.

I say it's easy because it can actually be done - no removing motor mounts or jacking the engine, or other shenanigans.  I've done much worse.