1987 R10 Silverado 2wd

[justin71105]

Loving my new truck, haven't been able to drive it much yet still waiting on tune up kit before I get in on the road but so far I have:

Changed out the shift linkage bushing Dorman Part# 02373 - Used a nylon washer on the inside to keep srping from pushing the bushing through the bracket again.

Changed out both belts, has a Serpentine belt on the front and a V belt on the back Part #'s 435K5 and 36517

Replaced the Headlight switch part # SW144 - The dash lights were not working, new switch and now they are.

Replaced an injector connector part # - 28413 - Still need another for the other injector its busted up pretty good.

Changing out the ignition lock cylinder today.

I did was the engine bay out with simple green and it washed away a good but of the grease, going to hit it once more today and see if I can't get some more of the build up off.

Here are some pics of it, going to try and update with new pics as I make changes.


















 

[79 Royal Sierra]

Welcome aboard bud, and glad to see another C10 saved from the Scrapper. Sounds like you are getting ahead in  the game so far. Good luck and keep us posted. God Bless

[justin71105]

Having trouble finding a part I think I am needing, I have my high beam selector on the column on the same stalk as the turn/cruise/wiper/washer.  I cannot find the switch that the stalk plugs into anywhere, I pulled the steering wheel to change the lock cylinder which is now done and to clean this selector switch.  The problem I was having is it would not select/click into high beam often and when it did it would not click back into low beam

Anyone replaced this switch in the column and have a name or number for it, auto zone could not find it in their system and not seeing it on Rock Auto.


Looks similar to Oreiley's wiper switch but still not what mine looks like, wondering if someone put in a different column.

I believe the piece I broke off and need to replace is called the dimmer switch actuator, it is a plastic piece that goes on the plastic cover of the column.


EDIT-- After looking through some puctures online mine is not broken, I can get it on and all back togethor and I get maybe one good switch from low to high and back and the plastic actuator slips past the rod somehow.  May just put a floor clicker in it and be done I been messing with this steering column for a couple hours and cannot figure it out.

Put everything back together and will be putting in a floor clicker tomorrow, see that the person before me cut out the cruise so will just use the stalk for turn signals and wipers.

[justin71105]

Pulled the seat out and carpet today, sprayed the carpet down with simple green and sprayed it out real good.  No real bad spots or stains but a lot of sand.  Insulation and sound deadener look like new and the paint under it looks great.

Got my steering wheel put back on and am going to the parts store to get a new foot switch this afternoon.  Still need to pull the wiring down and see if their is enough without extending it, the headlight switch under the dash uses the same plug as the old foot clickers so should be good with that.

Going to try and get a better camera next week and start to document my build.  Next major things will be the cab corner rust, moving the fuel tank to the spare tire area and mounting a new fuel door.....thinking about putting it on the inside of the bed on the wheel tub.  It seems to be fairly mechanically sound, I drove it around today and it has a lot more power than when I first got it.  Still needs plugs, wires, dist cap and rotor for me to finish up the tune up.  Radiator fluid is brand new and trans fluid looks new, which helps me believe the had the trans rebuilt.  That and some of the trans pan bolts were not tightened all the way and the cross member bolts were loose.

[1967KaiserM715]

Looking good!

are you getting rid of those 20ish wheels? to much rim IMO, needs some proper tires as a truck.

And finally is the windshield cracked? Kind of look like it in a couple of the pics.

[justin71105]

Looking good!

are you getting rid of those 20ish wheels? to much rim IMO, needs some proper tires as a truck.

And finally is the windshield cracked? Kind of look like it in a couple of the pics.

YEa I will be getting rid of the 22's, they are boss 338 22/9.5 with brand new tires on them.  I have the factory 15's I am thinking of putting back on it or selling both sets and getting a nice set of 17's and lowering it 3/4 with spindles, shackles and hangers.

The windshield is cracked, plan on replacing both the front and back at some time in the near future.

Right now I am cleaning the throttle body and ordering all the sensor and plugs that look eaten up or are not plugged up at all.

The Map sensor was unplugged, I plugged it in and it ran like crap and start to misfire and sputter.  Unplugged it and have same issue still.  Have ordered a new Map sensor and connector, new IAC valve and connector, New O2 sensor and connectors, a full tune up kit with plugs, wires, dist cap and rotor.  Once I pull apart the throttle body I can see if the fpr is going bad, think it is it is leaking a little fuel.

Need to do a vacuum test on my lines and a fuel pressure test but that will have to wait until I get finished with this tune up.

It has a little way's to go before I would trust it as a daily driver.


-----

Think when I order my motor I am going to use the FiTech efi system instead of going to a carb.

[justin71105]

Does anyone have a recommendation for a crate 350 something in the 300hp/325-375tq range.  I found a shop here in state that sales engines and I emailed them for a spec sheet tonight.  I am looking for a longblock or crate engine that I can finish putting togethor in a weekend and have installed in a day or two. when I get ready to purchase.

Something in the $2500-3500 range.

Right now I am looking at this company:  http://www.cmengines.com/

And the engine is:part # 350L130P3

Want to keep my 700R4 and preferably stock tq convertor and stall, so probably go with a mild cam.


Or this one from Jegs

http://www.jegs.com/i/Chevrolet-Performance/809/12499529K10/10002/-1


I don't know a whole lot about assembling engines or building them or specs but willing to learn, prefer one with roller cam so would have to buy a 96+ 350 longblock and all the accessories listed in the jegs pack above.  But don't know enough about them to go order one yet still have plenty of reading and research to do.

I am hoping to find out if I can put a 96+ vortec crate motor in it and overcome the ecu with the fitech efi system donig the tuning.

[Irish_Alley]

year one has a 400hp/tq for 3k i asked for a spec sheet before i bought one and they said it would be shipped with the engine. needless to say i didnt get one from them yet.

[justin71105]

year one has a 400hp/tq for 3k i asked for a spec sheet before i bought one and they said it would be shipped with the engine. needless to say i didnt get one from them yet.

I am leaning towards the vortec crate engines from jegs or summit and running the Fitech efi instead of the factory tbi or carb and let it self tune.  Even the 350/290 would be better than what is in it now, it has a wore out 305.

Got an email back from cmeengines and they are the pre 95 engines with flat tappet cams and non vortec heads.

Summit's store and wharehouse are only about 2 hours away from me, so I could pick it up and everything else I would need to finish the build.  Going to be the spring of next year before I do any ordering.  But would like to hash out what I am going to need before then so I can make one order and have a ballpark price. 

[justin71105]

I finished my tune up today and then went on to pulling my seatbelts out and winding the springs to give them a little extra life.  One of the ribbon springs popped out and unwound but the others tightened up nicely, got all 4 springs wound up and working as well as they can for their age.

Tomorrow i need to put the rivets back in the he sides of the belt cases and that will be done.  Will also finish up mounting my foot dimmer switch and running the wires.  Need to haul off some junk for my brother monday and then it is time to pull the dash out for a face lift.  Found a walk through of how to use expanding foam, plastic weld and some krylon fusion to give it new life. 

My driver side fender and cab corners should be in next week, will likely mount then fender and hold off on the cab corners.  I also need to order a rear driver side lower quarter panel to weld in as well, prefer to start with it before moving to the cab corners.

Also began looking for a digital camera for my update pics, my phone camera is busted and my tablet pics look like  a brick phone took them.  Plan on ordering a sony dsc -w800 monday if the local pawn shop doesn't have something similar that does photo and video.


Also got the 22's polished up yesterday one has some scratches and another has a little pitting, they sale for $1700 per 4 online and have brand new tires on them.  Going to post them online and see if I cant get 1200 or swap for 20's with good tires. 
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[justin71105]

Got the Rivets back in the plastic parts of the seat belt and got foot dimmer switch mounted and wired up.  Truck seems like it has a miss under load, going to check to make sure all my plugs have a good connection tomorrow and reset both the IAC and TPS which I forgot about.  Hopefully this will take care of the problem and it will be running right.  Also see I have a power steering leak were the lines connect along the front of the frame to a small box.  Have to look into what this is, may see if they have nylon washers....maybe they are wore out.




----10-31-16

Pulled all the plugs and checked gap - Manual said .45 which is what I had them at -- under hood sticker said .35 so I adjusted back to what the sticker under the hoods said.

I plugged everything in pretty good last night and hauled off some trash today and it ran good for about 10 miles, once I got to the dump it started running like crap and surging under throttle again.  When I got it home it would idle but if I put it in gear it would stall out and die.

Checked everything back out noticed the lead plug wire going from coil to dist cap was loose and not staying snapped down, went and got a new wire and still will not stay snapped into place.  The nub on the coil compared to the dist cap looks wore down and the plug will not stay snapped down, so I am going to put a new coil on it tomorrow.

I have ordered a new IAC, TPS and connector, Ignition control module and connectors.  I tried resetting the IAC tonight but the pintle would not come out fully unless I tapped on it with a screw driver slightly.  I cleaned the orifice when I had the throttle body off but the plunger and spring still looked a little gunked up, even after carb cleaner and a nylon brush.

On the ICM both of the plastic plugs are busted and the connectors are also broken so they no longer snap and hold in place. I think just from driving the connectors are working their way out and or the coil lead plug wire  is slipping off the nub and not getting good connection or a combination of the two.

I pulled the EGR valve tonight and cleaned it up, someone has painted the intake manifold and had gotten paint on the plunger of the EGR Valve, got it cleaned up and depressed the plunger and it works smoothly.  I depressed the plunger and blocked the air nipple and it held the pressure until I released it so I am hoping it is good, after cleaning it I re-installed with a new felpro gasket.



Hopefully when my rock auto shipment gets in and I have everything installed it will have a little more power.  If not I am going to rent a fuel pressure gauge and make sure my pump is not wearing out.  Right now it if I give it gas rpms go up like it wants to take off and then almost instantly it surges and looses power and bogs down.



I got my driver side fender in today from Jegs, glad they give free shipping over 95$ the box was huge.  If it mounts up well I may order the passenger side as well so I won't have to fill in all the deep scratched in the current fender.  Still need to look into ordering a new front bumper "black", a new grill and passenger side trim piece as well as a rear roll pan "black".  Can't install the roll pan until I cut out and weld in a rear driver side lower quarter panel though, mine is rusted through the first layer right behind the tire.  I hit it with the drill and a steel brush then sprayed it with some rustoleum for now.

I got a long way to go with this project but hope to have it driving reliably in the next month or two.

Going to try and finish cleaning up the factory wheels and polish them, need to decide whether I am going to put them on and if they will work with a 3/4 drop with spindles, the rear should be fine, don't know about the front.  The factory wheels are the 15x10.5 with the 8 oval holes and all the center caps.

[justin71105]

Can someone tell me what the two lines in the image I have arrows pointed to go to.  I am thinking they are for power steering, but they attach to something along the rail the lines bolt to and they are leaking at this connection. I would like to replace this part or the nylon washer or whatever is causing the leaking, but I don't know if all the fluid is going to spill out once I disconnect the lines or not.  I topped off the fluid today and it seems after I drove today it started coming out pretty good in the garage.  I loosened the line and re-tightened it as much as I felt comfortable with before driving it today because it had leaked some just from sitting already.

[1967KaiserM715]

Brake lines. One might be the fuel vent line that goes to the round charcoal canister


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[justin71105]

I'm going to trace them back tonight when I get home, dont think its brake lines though.  The fluid in my brake reservoir is full but power steering was near empty, and was full when I bought it.  Need to figure out what the piece the lines connect to is called, pretty sure it goes from that piece to the pump.

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[1967KaiserM715]

Unless they installed a cooler, there should only be 2 lines, a high pressure and a return(low pressure); coolers get installed on the low pressure side.

The most common loss of fluid occurs at the Pittman arm seal, followed by the rubber lines.

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