wiring extra dash lights and power sources

[1967KaiserM715]

Hi all, working on a 1985 GMC K1500, was originally a 305 with 700r4, now 6.5 Diesel with SM465, What I need some help with is a power source-I believe it was ignition switched for a tachometer and EGT gauge. And I would like to wire lights for the Boost and tachometer to come on with the dash lights.

Can I connect to one of the IGN spots on the fuse block for the ignition switched power source?

What is the typical rating for the IGN source on the fuse box? The Tach and EGT should draw less then 15 amps combined-ideally I think it was 5 and 3 respectively.

And whats the best way to tap into the dash lights?

Thanks.

[bd]

Connect the backlight to one of the three fusebox cavities labeled "LPS," which power and dim via a 4-amp fuse using the headlamp switch and dashlamp rheostat.  For gauge power, use one of the cavities labeled "IGN," which are protected by a 20-amp fuse.

[1967KaiserM715]

Awesome, that's just what I needed! Thanks.

[bd]

You're welcome!  If you want the OEM type indexed connectors that are correctly color coded and keyed to the fusebox cavities, purchase an American Autowire #500429 ATO/ATC fusebox terminal kit.

[hatzie]

You're welcome!  If you want the OEM type indexed connectors that are correctly color coded and keyed to the fusebox cavities, purchase an American Autowire #500429 ATO/ATC fusebox terminal kit.

Thank you... 

These Delphi Pak Con shells are keyed to the specific socket type so you can't plug an IGN plug into the LPS socket...  etc.  Real nice for adding accessory wiring so that it doesn't look mickey moused.

Delphi discontinued most of these connector shells.  You can still buy the Delphi Pak Con terminals from the usual suspects, like Mouser, but these fuse panel keyed shells were getting pretty dear.  I've actually cannibalized obsolete connector shells out of several 1980's trucks that were headed directly to the crusher.
I actually recently thought about drawing some 3D CAD files and rendering them to STL files so I could print them on a Stereo Lithography Printer if needed.  I've had some success doing this with black resin on a Form1+ for some odd Packard 56 connectors for OTTO switches on my ATV.

[bd]

Glad to be of assistance.

[1967KaiserM715]

Thanks for the terminal kit numbers, I'll get those, I am trying to make the wiring look as neat as possible, but it's still a real headache for me. I know the basics, but it still kicks me down every time; I always need to pull out the colored pencils and draw it out before I pick up any wire.


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[bd]

...I always need to pull out the colored pencils and draw it out before I pick up any wire.

IMHO, that's just being organized.  I've been "electrifying" things for many years and still approach every modification using that method.  Not only will you identify errors before you put them into practice, but you'll have a written record of changes for future reference.  The most abstract attribute of electricity is that it's invisible.  You can't see it.  You can perceive only its effects.  The analogy of "acting just like water in a pipe" works great in grasping the concept, but, at least, you can see water.   

[hatzie]

Thanks for the terminal kit numbers, I'll get those, I am trying to make the wiring look as neat as possible, but it's still a real headache for me. I know the basics, but it still kicks me down every time; I always need to pull out the colored pencils and draw it out before I pick up any wire.


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I agree with Rich...  You're doing it exactly the right way.  Anyone that fly's this stuff by the seat of their pants gets their seat burnt.

The Six P's of good engineering or project management.  Proper Planning Prevents Particularly Poor Performance.