Cooling Conundrum

[Irish_Alley]

Did it run hot before you used the stop leak?

[quinn.goode]

Did it run hot before you used the stop leak?

Yeah. I feel like through the flushing and stop leak and flushing that I just moved a clog from one part of my cooling system to the radiator and that's why I've been having trouble pinpoint my problem area.

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[quinn.goode]

Greetinf from Houston! First time posting here because I'm in a real bind. Lately I've been having issues with my 1984 c20 overheating. It has the original 350 that has had no major issues thus far. The truck will max out the temp guage with a simple trip around the block and I couldn't keep her cool.
So far I have:
-plugged all leaks and changed freeze plugs
-new water pump
-new thermostat
- and several flushes between those changes and burped the system each time.

I've noticed severe lag when trying to accelerate when she's reading hot. At idle the guage will get up to about 210 and driving only makes it worse...any suggestions on what to try next?
 

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I think the cooling was the least of my problems. Now fearing the worst...came home after letting the truck sit over the weekend. Started her up...barely ran...slowly overheated and after a few light revs to see if she'll kick into a decent idle I noticed water on the ground under the passenger side tail pipe. Upon further inspection the dark water had spewed from the exhaust and the part of the pipe up front by the starter was covered in blown out oil. She's started to smoke more since my cooling issues began and I believe I have a blown head gasket and or cracked block. It's obvious now that my cooling issue was just one part of a much bigger problem and just the most obvious seeing how the truck has always smoked a bit before it was warmed up. I have been fighting this possibility as much as I could but I don't think there is anything left to do. I think it's time for a new motor

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[Smitty31]

Are you still losing water ? If not I would replace  the radiator and I agree any kind of stopleak is asking for trouble. If replacing the radiator does it . I would start getting estimates on those freeze out plugs you can't get to. BECAUSE the stop leak will eventually fail.

[Smitty31]

Are you still losing water ? If not I would replace  the radiator and I agree any kind of stopleak is asking for trouble. If replacing the radiator does it . I would start getting estimates on those freeze out plugs you can't get to. BECAUSE the stop leak will eventually fail.

chevy heart beat of America

[Smitty31]

I didn't realize this went  past one page. So for your trouble. Would love to see pics of your trucks.

[quinn.goode]

Are you still losing water ? If not I would replace  the radiator and I agree any kind of stopleak is asking for trouble. If replacing the radiator does it . I would start getting estimates on those freeze out plugs you can't get to. BECAUSE the stop leak will eventually fail.

Yeah I was losing water like crazy. I think my problem is bigger because the engine kept chugging water from the radiator and began dumping it out of the exhaust pipe. My stop leak was only on for a day and was then thoroughly flushed. I ran the truck while filling the radiator and black oily water was just spewing from the passenger exhaust as fast as I could full the radiator.

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[Smitty31]

Sounds like a intake gasket or possibly a warped, cracked head or blown head gasket

[Smitty31]

How hot did it get? If you got it real hot it very well could be a blowed head gasket probaly with a warped head. So when you take the head off you'll need to haverify it manifluxed to check for a Crack and have them check to see if it's warp. TI would go ahead pull intake and replace the intake gasket as well. Not alot of money (probaly around a 100 to 150 ) but will take you a couple days to do it.

[quinn.goode]

How hot did it get? If you got it real hot it very well could be a blowed head gasket probaly with a warped head. So when you take the head off you'll need to haverify it manifluxed to check for a Crack and have them check to see if it's warp. TI would go ahead pull intake and replace the intake gasket as well. Not alot of money (probaly around a 100 to 150 ) but will take you a couple days to do it.

I know a new head gasket is a relatively cheap fix but with all my other issues with the motor (oil leaks, blow by, head gasket, heavily corroded cooling channels, timing troubles, exhaust manifolds and gaskets) I think it's best to spend the 5k on a crate 350 and upgrade. I need a motor that's reliable and that I can count on for longer trips and occasionally hauling and everything between. Plus I'm looking forward to the extra performance and clean looks.

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