Squeaky Drum Brakes & A Terrible Mechanic.

[Spool]

I’m surprised I can’t figure this out... can I cut some of the spring? I hardly have a thumb left and I can’t get any tool underneath it. Been fighting this thing for two hours.


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[Spool]

Thanks BD.

Sandpaper to round this?

Also, is there any other trick other than buying the ebrake tool? The passenger side one was much easier.


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[Spool]

Words cannot explain... moving on


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[Spool]

Seals after wiping them down. How do you guys think they look?






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[MIKE S]

Did you back off the adjustment nut under the truck. On the left side under the the front of the cab the main cable from the foot pedal is attached to the equalizer cable that goes to the rear brakes.

[Spool]

I did not, Mike. - but, thankfully it's done now.

[MIKE S]

Still see a lot stuff on the rubber. Put some brake clean on a cloth and wipe it down and also the exposed portion of the bearing.

[Spool]

I’m gonna be burning the midnight oil assembling the brakes- I’ll post pictures to confirm my assembly when I’m done.

Yet, one last question for the evening:
In the picture, from bottom to top- outer lock nut, ‘tab lock’, inner lock nut, and.... what is the forth piece?

I only had one on the drivers side, not the passenger side. Is it essential?


So, after I assemble the drivers side, bleed the brakes, remove that rough edge on the axel with emery cloth, I'll be looking to fit the drums. Which I understand is to make it so it just barely touching the shoes when you spin it.

However, the million dollar question is, do I need that 'forth piece' show above for my passenger side as well. If so, I'm gonna lose another two days on shipping.

[Spool]

Seals after wiped cleaned with brake cleaner



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[Spool]

Got the drivers side assembled.
What do you guys think?








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[Spool]

Bent down the passenger side support spring and sanded down that edge of the Axel as well. (Both sides.)


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[MIKE S]

You should have the missing spacer BUT if you don't as long as the bearing will tighten up you should be ok. I would try to find one and install it in the future. Be aware that when you tighten the inner nut and think it is tight enough it will get tighter when you tighten the outer nut and may overtighten the bearings.

[Spool]

Noted, thanks Mike. I'll proceed with the space for now just so I can get this brake job done.
But will look for a new spacer on summit and get it in the mail to install very shortly after this week or so.
Thus the order would be, drum/housing, spacer, inner lock nut, 'locking tab', outer lock nut. Are there torque specs for the lock nuts?


Alright, I'm gonna bleed the brakes while I wait for confirmation on whether or not I'm good to go with the seals I currently have.

I got some clear tubing that I'll attach to the bleeder valve.
The other end of the clear tube will run through a plastic cap of an empty water bottle with a bit of DOT3.
I'll be sure to have the plastic tube submerged in the DOT 3 once inside the bottle.
From here, I'll proceed with gently pumping my brakes until the hose if full of DOT3 and absent of any air bubbles.
All the while checking my master cylinder for brake fluid levels.

After this, I'll set the drums and see how they fit with the shoes as I have them now...

(Huge job for me... Thank you all. I truly can't express how grateful I am to have you and be apart of this forum.)

I just thought of something... Do I need to bleed all the brakes, or just the two cylinders I swapped?
I also see online that you're supposed to bleed the brake furthest from the master cylinder first- so, I'll bleed the rear right, then the rear left.
After that, hopefully I can confirm if I need to bleed the front wheels too.

[MIKE S]

The GM part number for the washer is 3663658. It is discontinued. There are plenty of dealers that still have it but unfortunately there are none in your area. If you put the # on ebay there are some on there. But looks like you have to buy a bag. Maybe a member has an extra from a junk axle.

[bd]

The attached image is a schematic drawing of a double lip seal that is representative of the axle oil seals used in your truck.  Notice that the outer lip is a dust seal that doubles as a secondary oil seal.  The dust seal's essential function is to keep fine abrasive particles away from the inner lip seal.  The inner lip is the primary oil seal that blocks unwanted oil migration.  The cleanliness, condition, and pliability of the inner lip are the most crucial properties for proper seal function.  Images do not adequately convey the condition or pliability of the seal lips.  You have to be the judge through visual inspection and feel.  If, following thorough inspection, you are satisfied, then proceed with the drum installation and bearing adjustments.  Make sure there is no residual oil coating the exposed interior of the drum before you install them.  Be sure to apply a film of fresh axle lubricant or grease to both seal lips just before remounting the drums.

I agree that the missing washer should be replaced.  It functions as a thrust surface in the event that the inner race of the outer bearing rotates on the axle tube.