So I'm going to get the 87... This is what I'm doing

[87ChevyR10]

Gonna drive it. And put new tires on it and she should make the trip. Gonna get a lot of footage, start to build up some video on my channel but I wanted to come here and ask the vets. Alot of the same people who have helped me times over in the past when I've had issues.

So when I get it here, I got all this stuff I'm gon list below going on. Realistically, I know nobody in central PA so its pretty much gon be me and probably 1 other person I know who'll help. If i get it up on my jack stands/rhino ramps, we'll be aight. BUT, I'm going to focus on the front end because the fuel line stuff i have flexibility of leisure vs tearing the front end out. That's gotta be done there. Know what I mean?

This is the list:

Suspension

Monroe F Shocks (2)
Monroe R Shocks (2)
MOOG Springs (F)
Front Suspension Rebuild kit(bushings, tie rods, ball joints and idler arm)
Pitman Arm
Steering Stabilizer
Reman Cardone Steering Box
Moog Tie Rod Sleeves
Western Chassis FSMK6387 Front Shock Mount Kit
Belltech front/rear sway bar

Putting a fuel cell in and this is what I'm working with there.

Fuel

25ft Dayco 80060 5/16" Fuel Line Roll, Evil Energy 6AN Female to 3/8" Barb Hose 90 degree, Evil Energy 6AN Female to 5/16" Barb hose 90 degree, 25ft Dayco 80063 3/8" 25ft Fuel line roll
Kit had: 12' Stainless Steel Braided 6AN Fuel Line, 2 x 90 Degree 6AN Fuel Hose Fitting Adapter, 2 x 45 Degree 6AN Fuel Hose Fitting Adapter, 2 x Straight 6AN Fuel Hose Fitting Adapter, 2 x 6AN to 10AN Fuel Tank Fitting Adapter,
Regulator
155 lph summit inline fuel pump
19g fuel cell

Brakes/Other

The Right Stuff Complete Brake Line Kit, Duralast Brake Hose (pass.) / (driver), new brake pad set, calipers, brake shoes, wheel Seals, Wheel Cylinders, Wheel Bearings & Race Set, National Bearing inner/outer

Misc

AC Delco Serpentine, (2) 15x8 / (2) 15x10 D Window Wheels & New tires(not sure what ima do on the tires YET, looking at BFG, suggestions would be welcome here too)
Grant Quick Disconnect GRT-3001, 414 Steering Wheel, Grant Install Kit, Wheel Horn Button

I've watched AG4L's 87 front end rebuild video quite a bit over the years, alot of similar videos too. I also have most the manuals and things I could find over the years on the net, alot i have gotten here, things like the torque specs and stuff i may need help with.

Bought the jacks, torque wrenches, grease, grease gun, paint for the control arms. Going to clean those up when I get them out.

But what can yall steer me towards in the way of avoiding headaches? Springs obviusly I'm leery of due to never having removed them and watching my father have one almost #$%^ his day up once, i know that can be a bit tricky. What other things along those lines with the rebuild will I have to look out for? Or would make things easiest? I mentioned in the reddit post about feeling the rivets may be a headache when i go to replace the OE ball joints, drilling the holes to replace with bolt in ball joints. Stuff like that.

I'm a bit nerdy, so like when i rebuilt the tbi-220 years back, i took pics in removal and laid everything out on cardboard and bagged up the stuff that went together to not lose track of nuts and bolts and where THEY went. I plan to do the same and once apart, get the parts going back in cleaned up and painted.

Should be going to get her soon, will keep ya updated of course. Look forward to yall reply. All the best

[JohnnyPopper]

Wow that's quite a list!

So it seem you're focusing on the front end suspension first.

You mentioned 'painting' the control arms and other parts.

Be aware that getting the surfaces ready for paint or other coatings require some attention if you want paint to 'stick' and look good.

Regardless of your method, you will need to wire wheel the part to remove any buildup of crud.

To its credit, on this forum I came across a post that was very helpful in the resto of my 1980 C-10.

They used a bath of diluted Molasses, found at food stores, dissolved crud, rust, and other stuff, that when complete, gives you a clean surface to apply what you want.

I bought a 45-50 gallon plastic trash can w/lid. Made the 9 parts water to 1 part molasses.

I'll post the pics. hope it helps and saves you some time and work.

These components were soaked till clean. I would pull them out and spray wash with hose. If they weren't completely clean they went back in.

The black paint is a little more than.

[87ChevyR10]

Wow that's quite a list!

So it seem you're focusing on the front end suspension first.

You mentioned 'painting' the control arms and other parts.

Be aware that getting the surfaces ready for paint or other coatings require some attention if you want paint to 'stick' and look good.

Yessir! I kept a lot of stuff from my time at the body shop. A lot of 600, 800 grit. Body filler scrapers.

Regardless of your method, you will need to wire wheel the part to remove any buildup of crud. 

I'll post the pics. hope it helps and saves you some time and work.

Thanks for the pics, I was showing my wife the parts im changing out and what was what. But it also gave me another look at what I am looking at, since my truck is in GA and I am in PA. I'm eager to get to it. I know that.

The wire wheel is a must. I gotta spring for another battery powered drill since i have most of the attachments already.

I wanna strip the grime and the rust off so i can get a nice cleaning in and prime/paint on all the reusable stuff. heck, if i make enough time, i may get jazzy and scuff the d-windows and try a rustoleum turbo in white then spray clear coat. who knows. The OG plan was to spray the stock black rims white anyway. Going for a sport truck/rally truck look.

[87ChevyR10]

Things actually kinda unfolded rather quick since i posted this initially. So I'm going to get her pretty much ASAP within a few weeks.

Can someone steer me on the tires? I bought 15x8s for the front, 15x10s for the rear. Stock on there i believe was 235 70 15s. With the 10s in the back, i wanted to go with a beefier tire but the options are kinda eh.