87 R10 dual tank pump issue and hot fuel module

[Ocho]

I'm doing an LS swap on my truck with carburetor. I'm using the factory dual tank setup with the selector switch and fuel pump relay as original. But I'm bypassing the solenoid valve for the fuel selection Only , it's still being used for the fuel gauge readings. Here's my issue, and I'll include a picture. On my bulkhead connector there's a terminal that comes out with two tan wires. One goes to the fuel take selector switch on the dash and the other wire goes straight to the left fuel pump. This terminal activates with key on. Therefore, energizing the left fuel pump and eliminating the ability to use the tank selector switch on the dash. Question is, should there be two wires coming out of this terminal? Because I can't find any wiring diagrams that show two wires coming out. My other concern is perhaps this feeds to the hot fuel moduleal and it is defective, therefore allowing voltage to pass through the module and straight to the left tank. Been chasing this for a few days so any help is very appreciated

[Captkaos]

I am going to have questions first for a better understanding. 
What issue are you chasing?
Was your truck spec'd for above 8500 GVW and has a Hot fuel module?

Those appear to be tan/white wires coming out of that terminal and it should not an issue since the are connected/spliced anyway.  What are the numbers on that terminal for Brown, Dk Grn, tan/white, X, pink, yellow and lt grn?
120 tan/wht = fuel pump relay
both in-tank pumps and the fuel selector valve
920 tan = left tank pump & selector valve,
921 gray = right tank pump & selector valve
150 blk = ground

The dash gauge switches between tanks by the selector valve. 
30 pink = gauge
930 pink/white = left tank sender
931 pink/black = right tank sender

[Ocho]

Let me get those details for your. Thanks. The problem I'm having is a soon as I turn the key to on,  the left tank comes on regardless of dash switch position.

[Ocho]

Left tank pump i should've said

[Captkaos]

When you say the left tank comes on, do you mean the fuel pump or?

This part is confusing to me, what exactly do you mean by this:

But I'm bypassing the solenoid valve for the fuel selection Only , it's still being used for the fuel gauge readings.

[Ocho]

Yes. The in tank fuel pump comes on with key on, regardless of tank selector switch on the dash. The right tank operates as it should. Switch to right tank and the pump comes on. Switch to the left tank it goes off but the left stays on continually. There is key on power from those two tan wires. One goes to the dash selector switch and the other to the left pump. That's where I'm confused. Should there be two team wires coming out of that one bulkhead terminal?

[Captkaos]

The tan/white wire would just be the wire which sends power to the left or right tank based on the switch position.
The gray and tan wire from the switch determine which side pump to excite along with controlling the switching valve.

From the fatory the intank pump(s) should come on when the relay is triggered for about 5secs (estimate) base on the ECM trigger. 
Do you still have the relay in use? 
If you are using a carb, what are you triggering the relay with (if in use)?
It sounds like you have this wired incorrectly as the tan/white is just a trigger wire from the relay and the switch determines where to send the power= left or right tank.

[Ocho]

Thanks Chris. Since the relay uses that short pulse from the ECM to prime and a signal through the oil pressure sending unit, I provided 12v to those inputs since I don't have the ECM to do that. My guess is that's where the problem lies. Would you agree? Since I can't just add a 5 second prime signal, it's 12v continously. Just not sure how to wire the relay. Should I just get a different relay that doesn't need those extra inputs to pass 12v?