The box as it comes from Auto Loc...
The contents of the kit, you may not have to use the striker pin mounting plate, or the pin, if your factory setup works. The hinge is spring loaded to pop when pressure is put on the tab, so you just have to hook your linkage and solenoid up to that tab and your good to go. If you are having problems making your exsisting linkage work, I suggest using some cables and cable ferrules to make a new direct link from your inner door handle to the latch (for mechanical linkage).
Also, I STRONGLY suggest mounting remote battery terminals somewhere that is accessible without having to get in the vehicle and pop the hood. Because when your battery dies, and your solenoids won't open your doors, instead of breaking a window to get in, you can jump the battery from say, under the front bumper, or (if you want to run cables back there) under the rear bumper... You can pick up the remote terminals from a race shop (race cars use them all of the time) or summit, jegs, etc...
The hole I had to patch from my door popper...
The latch straight on... You can orientate the latch different ways to work with your linkage... Notice the small notch I had to cut out for the linkage to stick out, this can be mounted to be inside of the door...
The latch again with the solenoid mounted above it... You want the solenoid as close and straight on as possible for ease of building linkage, and binding...
Side view of the latch...
Striker pin relocated to the front of the door sill... Notice the patched hole where the factory wiring was routed through...
The door closing...
Let me know if you have anymore questions... Remember this install is on a 95 Sonoma, so your install will be different, but hopefully this will give you enough information to get started!
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