Help Needed: New window motor and switch only goes one way

[plik]

Delco PT-254 5-way for right door (GM 12101862)
Delco PT-546 6-way for left door (GM 12125634)

Both OEM connectors are available from www.rockauto.com, et al.

Do you know the part number for the 4-switch (10-pin) connector for the driver's side in a suburban?

[bd]

Delco PT-185 10-way for driver's door - Suburban (GM 12101913)

[plik]

Delco PT-185 10-way for driver's door - Suburban (GM 12101913)

PERFECT!!!

[plik]

So ... new connector installed. Still no go.

Well, it goes -- but only goes in one direction (which is the problem I was trying to solve).

I assumed the problem was with the connector because the switch is new (as is the motor). And everything worked perfectly before the original motor went out (which didn't happen right away, mind you, it went slower every day until it died). In fact, when it died, it went down (barely) and then never came back up.

Anyway, I have no idea what to do next.

[bd]

Did you test the wiring as recommended or just replace parts?  Control and ground (not power) to the right switch and window motor route through the left switch.  An open in either of the two wires previously mentioned or the driver switch will prevent the right motor from working in one or both directions.  Initially, the symptom of the previous motor "dragging" was caused by voltage loss across the control circuit.  But, it was the resulting slow rotation of the motor that killed the motor.

[VileZambonie]

You probably have a broken wire in the door jam. Listen to BD, you need to check the wiring. Your other option is to rewire the entire circuit using relays. This is the preferred method since the factory method is not practical. If someone else has time, post the wiring diagram for the power window relay upgrade for him. Gotta run! Good luck

[plik]

Assuming the left window functions, there is an open in the wiring between the driver and passenger side switches or the driver side switch is faulty.  If you unplug both switches and both window motors, you can use an ohmmeter to check continuity of the tan and dark blue/white wires from side-to-side.  If the wires of like color have continuity, the switch is faulty.  Otherwise, there is an open in the wire with no continuity.  Avoid connecting your meter to any pink wires since they attach to 12-volt ignition and serious meter damage can result.

Thank you so much for your help. I really appreciate it.

Here are the steps as I'm understanding them. Let me know if this is correct:
1) Verify that the left window works
2) Unplug both switches
3) Unplug both window motors
* Avoid connecting multi-meter to pink wire
4) Check continuity between each end of the tan wire between the switches
5) Check continuity between each end of the dark-blue/white wire wire between the switches

Question: should the battery be disconnected for this?

Question: Is there a way to test the continuity without disconnecting the driver-side window motor? Everything is all put together on that side and getting the motor disconnected would take a lot of work.

Question: What's the next step after testing? I've already replaced all of the parts. It seems re-wiring is inevitable.    I mean, if there is continuity, then maybe the motor connector is bad. I can't think of anything else other than the wiring.

[bd]

Here are the steps as I'm understanding them. Let me know if this is correct:
1) Verify that the left window works
2) Unplug both switches
3) Unplug both window motors
* Avoid connecting multi-meter to pink wire
4) Check continuity between each end of the tan wire between the switches
5) Check continuity between each end of the dark-blue/white wire wire between the switches

A) Question: should the battery be disconnected for this?

B) Question: Is there a way to test the continuity without disconnecting the driver-side window motor? Everything is all put together on that side and getting the motor disconnected would take a lot of work.

C) Question: What's the next step after testing? I've already replaced all of the parts. It seems re-wiring is inevitable.    I mean, if there is continuity, then maybe the motor connector is bad. I can't think of anything else other than the wiring.

1-5 are correct.

A)  You don't need to disconnect the battery,  Just don't connect your ohmmeter to a live circuit.

B)  You have to disconnect the motors, because the tan and blue wires are connected through the motor windings.

C)  Because of B), you can check continuity through the motor (and its plug) by connecting the ohmmeter to the motor leads at the switch connector with the switch unplugged.  Are you saying you already replaced the driver's door switch?

[plik]

Here are the steps as I'm understanding them. Let me know if this is correct:
1) Verify that the left window works
2) Unplug both switches
3) Unplug both window motors
* Avoid connecting multi-meter to pink wire
4) Check continuity between each end of the tan wire between the switches
5) Check continuity between each end of the dark-blue/white wire wire between the switches

A) Question: should the battery be disconnected for this?

B) Question: Is there a way to test the continuity without disconnecting the driver-side window motor? Everything is all put together on that side and getting the motor disconnected would take a lot of work.

C) Question: What's the next step after testing? I've already replaced all of the parts. It seems re-wiring is inevitable.    I mean, if there is continuity, then maybe the motor connector is bad. I can't think of anything else other than the wiring.

1-5 are correct.

A)  You don't need to disconnect the battery,  Just don't connect your ohmmeter to a live circuit.

B)  You have to disconnect the motors, because the tan and blue wires are connected through the motor windings.

C)  Because of B), you can check continuity through the motor (and its plug) by connecting the ohmmeter to the motor leads at the switch connector with the switch unplugged.  Are you saying you already replaced the driver's door switch?

I realize now that I didn't read the earlier reply correctly; I didn't realize the driver-side switch could be the problem.

I really appreciate your help, by the way.

I've got my multi-meter set and I'll hopefully tackle it this week.

In the mean time, you might enjoy how I'm keeping up my window. :-)

[gunrac]

Here ya go......
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GLsyM2Crhew

[bd]

In the mean time, you might enjoy how I'm keeping up my window. :-)

That's an innovative use for a 'biner....

[LTZ C20]

Here ya go......
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GLsyM2Crhew

All day long......

[gunrac]

LOL........All good!

[plik]

UPDATE:

Success!!!

I was able to get the passenger side window working by replacing the pigtail on the driver side (ACDelco PT185 GM Original Equipment 10-Way Female Door Window Switch Pigtail). The original switch on the driver side just fell apart in my hand when I got to it -- the back plate broke in half and fell off, wires were starting to fall out. I had to act quickly to keep all the wires in place so I knew what went where. I had my son run and grab some masking tape, but first I took a quick photo in case the tape didn't work. Anyway, all is good. The kit I got from AC Delco includes wire connectors (the kind you crimp to connect two wires).

I still want to implement replays (to get power directly to the motors instead of routing them through the switches), but that'll be a project for another day. :-)

[gunrac]

 ......good deal!