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August 06, 2022, 05:07:09 AM by Ben_Olddermin | Views: 75 | Comments: 4

Hello again. I am currently refurbishing my trucks interior. It is a 1987 model and the color is Saddle. I need to repaint the door panels. However! The SEM color for Saddle looks brown. So that's not right. It does not look like a butter scotch color which is my truck's interior color from the factory. Here is a link below:

If you scroll down on that page you can see that someone posted a pic of their results on a door panel. Clearly it is brown. The Saddle color in my 87 is a much lighter tan color than that. So I am hoping that somebody here can tell me the right SEM color to redo my interior plastics.

Thank you
August 06, 2022, 01:28:43 AM by 76ChvK20 | Views: 56 | Comments: 2

Hello all -

Newbie here. Both to builds and to the site.

I run a '76 K20 with a 6" Superlift kit and some simple dress-up components right now - valve covers, intake filter, new lighting here and there, etc. It is the Factory 400 SBC with TH400 Trans, 14-bolt rear, 35s, I'm sure you know all the rest. What was a classic Indiana farm truck is now just a big trail rig for me, but being a first project I've got a LOT to learn. The Superlift kit will eventually be replaced with a 4-link and some coil overs, so I am just trying to get the underside of the rig as clean/ready as possible for when I can do that.
   (Yes those are false bead locks which will change at some point. It was a quicker lead time than w/o the false bead locks, funnily enough).

It is still the factory, tired ole' 400 SBC with 146k miles on it. She'll be rebuilt sometime soon, as long as everything goes to plan. Right now it is just open headers - will be interesting for the Woodward Dream Cruise. For the exhaust, nothing is concrete other than the tubing being 2.5". I'm thinking just true duals (mufflers TBD...ideas?) to make it drivable at 6 AM for work, but I do plan on putting an x-pipe in the mix before the engine is rebuilt.

The thought was to try and keep the exhaust in between the frame rails, on either side of the transmission as much as I possibly can. The issue I am running into is the factory shift linkage is right in the way of this, and after looking at some much needed conversion kits I wasn't quite sure what would be the best course of action (It got stuck in drive the other day 😶 pulled up this thing immediately: https://www.
   1. Do I keep on the current path of hiding the exhaust up in the truck, or just route it below the frame all the way back like factory? It is a good 6-8" in clearance, but I cannot find a Stainless 2.5" Header back kit for a 76 K20 anywhere (Which is where I got the idea to hide the exhaust up in the frame in the first place. Doing it custom? make it full custom). I could very well be looking in the wrong places, but it also sounds a little more fun to do the exhaust myself.
   2. I plan on doing some sort of finish on the exhaust, not sure if I go with Cerakote or what just yet. Would it be good to do some extra shielding around the Transmission, which would also protect brake/fuel lines secured within in the Frame?

Many of the people I've talked to are just like "you do you". I don't have the build knowledge for that just yet. I certainly don't mind spending a full day working on one part of the vehicle, only because I prefer the performance of something tinkered with and done right than the patchwork needed 1 or 2 years down the road. I just don't have the knowledge of heat dissipation, air flow, etc. - especially with the 400. I'm not even sure how much the rebuild would affect all this. I'm sure the trail damage will give me a lot of new build info & improvements.

Images attached here, let me know if you have any questions. Tips and tricks for absolutely anything with these rigs is very thoroughly appreciated.

Sorry, that is a lot of words. Enjoy the weekend.

- 76ChvK20

1976 Chevrolet K20, Bonanza Edition - "Fireball"
400 SBC, TH400, 14-Bolt Rear, factory full-time 4x4.
August 05, 2022, 06:11:06 PM by Swampyankee74
Views: 56 | Comments: 2

My fuel pump has been working on and off on my 87 v20. Changed the relay. Have a good ground. So I put 2 volts to the pump and it does not work. Dead fuel pump.  What I'm wondering is I put a meter to the pump pigtail and get 9 volts. Do I have a power issue that is cooking the pump?
August 04, 2022, 02:04:43 PM by Swampyankee74
Views: 159 | Comments: 12

I recently purchased a 1987 V20. While working on it I noticed the rear leaf springs had 4+1 leafs. The vin number says its a v20, the breaks and drive train all match a v20. Did someone swap the rear leaf springs out with a half ton pickup?
August 04, 2022, 05:34:19 AM by Ben_Olddermin | Views: 70 | Comments: 1

I am hoping somebody knows all the window tricks on these trucks. I have heard to spray the felts inside the door with silicone spray, but I don't have any experience with silicone spray. Which spray does everybody use?

Next question.

What else can be done to improve the speed of the power windows. I have replaced both sides with new AC Delco brand motors and regulators. I have done the relay mod. After that the driver's side improved a lot but the passenger side is still slow. Do I need to replace those felts that run down inside the door? Is it a difficult job to do? Thank you.
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