TPI onto 86 Block

[Captkaos]

I read somewhere that the 5/16 return line can use regular fuel line. Thoughts?

Never heard that, and I wouldn't recommend it.
As for the fittings, I personally would get a new fuel supply assembly.  I am going to get rid of my front supply line and get the Corvette version that enters at the back.

[123 pugsy]

I believe the reason  someone wrote that was because the fuel just pours back into the tank and the high pressure is gone by this time. I will however use high pressure line as I will be using all steel except for short joiner pieces.

Anyone know how to put that "flare" ,bulge??,at the end of the line so the hose can get some grip?
I have a double flaring tool. Can something be done with this?

[VileZambonie]

I have a fuel line repair kit that cost me about $250 bucks and I can make just about any fuel line repair to any oem line.

A really simple cheap option for you would be a 3/8 and a 5/16 fuel line repair kit like this

http://www.shop.com/op/~Dorman_Steel_Fuel_Line_Repair_Kit_3_8_X_30_-prod-17013216-23915462?sourceid=298

[123 pugsy]

I've got those repair kits for where I will hook up the fuel filter to the existing fuel line. I figured out a way to flare the line with a homemade tool.I decided to stick with the compression fittings.I changed the straight return fitting for a 90 degree. I cut back the 3/8 inlet line and got the straight fitting more recessed under the plenum.

[VileZambonie]

I think you should just take one of those lines and bend it so it screw directly into the rail. The iso flare with the oring is made to fit directly into the fuel rail. With the brass you have no oring seal and a few potential leaks.

[123 pugsy]

The 2 lines from the fuel rails were cut when I got them.  I have pretty good faith in compression fittings as I've used them alot in plumbing applications.

[VileZambonie]

 
What I am saying is the repair lines will screw right into your fuel rail and you won't need all those brass fittings. The repair lines come with a compression fitting if you don't want to flare it to your existing fuel lines that go to the tank end

[123 pugsy]

Brain Fart  . I can just use 5/16 and 3/8 " steel to steel unions
w/o the brass hose barbs and extra threaded connections. Thanks for waking me up.

Next: How about the BL/YEL wire from the Pass-Key to the start enable relay? Can I just ground this or....? I don't have this relay and I really don't want it.

Also: How about the red wire from the fuel pump relay that is "Fuel Pump Prime"? The 87 sending unit together the 92 camero fuel pump has 2 wires. 1 for the gas Gage,1 for the fuel pump, where does the fuel pump prime go? Does it just splice together with the fuel pump wire?

[VileZambonie]

For the fuel line repair kits make sure you get the ones like I pictured there. They have the bubble flare with o-ring. Any auto parts store should have them.

are u talking about the fuel pump test lead? That shouldn't be hooked up to anything unless you want to bypass the fuel pump enable ckt for testing purposes. The ecm primes the fuel system by energizing the fuel pump relay for 2 seconds when the ignition is first switched on.

As far as grounding the black and yellow wire There's no reason to do this. the pass key module will do that when you switch the ignition on if you have the correct resistor wired in.

[123 pugsy]

The return line doesn't screw in, it just slides into the pressure regulator. The inlet doesn't appear to screw in ,so I just used 2 compression fittings to extend the steel lines out.

[123 pugsy]

Made up four 18* adapter washers for the 4 center bolt holes as they are on a 72* angle and I'm running older style heads with 90* bolt holes.

[123 pugsy]

Got the '87 sending unit with the 92 TPI fuel pump ready.Now I just need to drop the tank, cut 2 slits in it on each side, slide 2 baffles thru the slits and weld them up. Sound like a disaster ready to happen?

[123 pugsy]

I don't have a wire in the ALDL for fuel pump.Is there supposed to be one there? If there is one there how is it used.  I've got it wired like the sketch I drew and photographed (as my scanner sucks or maybe I don't know how to use it). I'm thinking I have to join the red wire to the grey wire going to the fuel pump.It looks as though the ECM energizes the red when the key is turned and then the oil pressure will close the switch making contact after the engine has cranked.

Comments?

[Captkaos]

The ALDL in port G is the fuel pump test terminal.  It should apply 12V to the pump.

[VileZambonie]

The oil pressure switch in this system will supply current if the fuel pump relay fails. I'll attach a description and the schematic.




When the ignition is first turned ON, the ECM turns ON the fuel pump relay for two seconds and the fuel pump builds up system pressure. The ECM then checks the coolant temperature sensor, throttle position sensor (TPS), manifold air temperature (MAT) sensor, and determines the proper air/fuel ratio for starting. This ranges from 1.5:1 at -36°C (-33°F) to 14.7:1 at 94°C (201°F) running temperature. The ECM controls the amount of fuel delivered in the starting mode by changing how long the injectors are turned ON and OFF. This is done by pulsing the injectors for very short times.



OPERATION:
When the key is first turned "ON," without the engine running, the ECM will turn the fuel pump "ON" for two seconds. This builds up the fuel pressure quickly. If the engine is not started within two seconds, The ECM will shut the fuel pump "OFF" and wait until reference pulses are present. As soon as the engine is cranked, the ECM turns the relay "ON" and runs the fuel pump.

As a back up system to the fuel pump relay, the fuel pump can also be turned "ON" by the oil pressure switch. The oil pressure switch is a normally open switch which closes when oil pressure reaches about 28 kPa (4 psi). If the fuel pump relay fails, the oil pressure switch will run the fuel pump.

An inoperative fuel pump relay can result in long cranking times, particularly if the engine is cold, and this should set Code 54 if applicable.