How to replace ignition switch?

[Spool]

Hey Guys.
73 c20 here.

This thread is teaching me that I need a steering wheel puller to access the ignition switch that I'm replacing.

But, can I confirm anything else I may need before going further?
I've looked at many videos online, and can't seem to find one that looks like my column.
For example, in the photo attached, this is how far I got down the column before becoming stuck.

[VileZambonie]

The ignition switch is on top of the column and you do not need to remove the steering wheel.

[bd]

Spool, did you look at the service manual?  Removing the steering wheel is necessary only if you need to replace the key tumbler.  As VileZambonie stated, the ignition switch attaches to the top of the steering column roughly 6" behind the dash plate.  The key tumbler actuates the switch through a geared rack and rod that runs down the top of the column.  The easiest access to the switch is by unbolting the column and dropping it down to lay on the seat while you work.  Or, if you're only a foot tall, you can stand under the dash and reach up over your head.   

[MIKE S]

In his picture it looks like the cylinder is missing.

[Spool]

Apologies. I think I posted in the wrong thread thinking my ignition switch is the tumbler.

It's the tumbler I need to access. The plastic piece for your thumb when turning the key broke of- So, I'm looking to swap it out.

[VileZambonie]

Looks like you've got an aftermarket wheel. You need to remove the hub, the cover underneath, use a lockplate depressor to remove the snap ring and remove the lockplate. Remove the turn signal switch and lever and you'll be able to access the lock cylinder. There are differences so you need to tell us what year the column is for more details.

[Spool]

Thanks Vile.
I'll create a different post to keep it organized.

[Spool]

Hey Vile,

I'll copy/paste here too:

My steering wheel is aftermarket, but does that change the setup of the column?
You also mentioned that I need a puller to remove the hub - would the hub be the metal piece in the first photo?
Will any old wheel puller work or does it need to be specific?

[VileZambonie]

This is close enough to show you the basic steps. Obviously only go down far enough to replace the ignition cylinder.

http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php?topic=12525.0

and 3B4

http://www.73-87chevytrucks.com/techinfo/7387CKMans//Service/X8632_1986_GMC_Light_Duty_Truck_CK_G_P_10_to_30_Service_Manual.pdf

[Spool]

Very cool. Excellent instructions.
I have a service manual, but I think it's older than the 86 you shared. Mine is just Red with no picture- I forget the year.

I have all but two necessary tools listed which are new tools to me. May I confirm whether these would work?

Steering wheel puller:
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BK_7763905?cid=paidsearch_shopping_dcoe_google&campaign=GSC-Tools-Equipment&campaign_id=8553470562&adgroup_id=107047174069&adtype=pla&gclid=Cj0KCQiAhP2BBhDdARIsAJEzXlHNmtyf8CtO9eWuivr66WOCJUWGy7k2huRnlLigU_WiLEEEnWx6uOYaAtq4EALw_wcB&

Lock plate remover/installer
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BK_7769063?cid=paidsearch_shopping_dcoe_google&campaign=GSC-Tools-Equipment&campaign_id=8553470562&adgroup_id=107047174069&adtype=pla&gclid=Cj0KCQiAhP2BBhDdARIsAJEzXlFzGwOVN50zXSrPAhjpJXJvTf5o5lD9SknZcN_RZ5EJREXLY-v5LboaAliSEALw_wcB&

Pivot pin remover would be a third tool, but that's not required for this job.

[VileZambonie]

I referenced the later column because that's what you have. You have a wiper stalk on the column.

https://www.harborfreight.com/steering-wheel-remover-set-63685.html

[Spool]

Ah. I see.
So that kit also looks like it covers the lock plate remover as well, correct?

[bd]

The splined steering shaft and aluminum three-hole adapter hub at the top of the shaft are a tapered fit.  If the aluminum hub proves stubborn to remove you will also need a Bolt-Type Steering Wheel Puller. 

Let me try to pull all of this together for you.  The Steering Wheel Remover Set linked by VileZambonie is perfect for the factory GM "two-bolt" steering wheel configuration and includes the tools that you will need AFTER you remove the aluminum "three-bolt" adapter for the aftermarket steering wheel you currently have in the truck. 

The Bolt-Type Steering Wheel Puller that I linked is specifically to remove that aftermarket adapter, after which you would use the puller set linked by Vile.  However, there is a caveat.  You need to be careful when purchasing a three-bolt steering wheel puller to ensure that the puller will fit the small bolt circle of the steering wheel hub.  The Bolt-Type Wheel Puller Set listed in your other thread is designed for harmonic balancers with larger bolt circles.  In other words, the set linked in your other thread may be too large to properly fit and remove the hub.

The puller you linked from NAPA is the wrong tool for removing the steering wheel.

[Spool]

Thanks, BD. I appreciate you organizing this for me.
I was at PepBoys today checking out there stuff and notice many pullers look similar but have different uses as you pointed out.

I went ahead and grabbed the bolt-type steering wheel puller you linked just now.
And also the puller set linked by Vile. I'll report back with successes or troubles.

Thanks again, BD. The time you take here is truly appreciated.

[Spool]

Alright.
Thanks to your help, Vile and BD, I got the job done.

Two things.

1. The aftermarket hub that I got off- I was having trouble getting it back on. That is, pushing it back into place as the guy at PepBoys told me was cutting it. Instead, I grabbed two large wrenches and a rubber mallet. Was this a good idea or a bad idea? Picture attached.

2. I removed the ignition lock and then placed the new ignition lock in. I then proceeded to replace the hex bolt to hold the ignition lock in place.
However, I couldn't get it in. So, I take the bolt back out and see the ignition lock is blocking my clearance. Yet, when I go to take the ignition lock out to inspect it further, I find that I can't. I tried for about 15 minutes to get it out, until I realized, well, if I can't get it out, then I suppose I don't need the hex bolt to keep it in. As it stands now, everything works and is back together, but I have the hex bolt off to the side.
Any thoughts as to what I did wrong?