Will the 87 sending unit fit into my 76 20 gallon tank?
You don't have just the EGR valve or the whole set up with the solenoid?
I read somewhere that the 5/16 return line can use regular fuel line. Thoughts?Never heard that, and I wouldn't recommend it.
What ECM are you using? Port D on the ALDL is typically the SES Ground.
You can get all the pinouts for ECM's here:
http://www.diy-efi.org/gmecm/ecm_info/
you can swipe the plastic lens out of a SES equipped Speedo and use it in yours in lieu of something else and run a lead/plug straight to it if you want it to look factory.
Well there's lotsa grey wires and schematics aren't listed by where they're routed so you'll have to trace where the other end goes in order to follow it on a schematic.
If it's any consolation, I had to repin a 92 z28 motors wiring harness to match my brothers 88 IROC body....that took a month! Anywho...the posted pictures are the c207 connectors. They control a TON of stuff! If you can figure out what year you nead, you can search the www.thirdgen.org forums for a "c207 diagram", or google search the same. You can also try this one:
Vehicle Speed Sensor. Just screw in and done. ( I hope )
(http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f81/123pugsy/DSC03554.jpg)
Beautiful! Very nice fuel filter mount.
B9 and B10 are going to connect to your VSS.
B11 Won't be used on your truck since your speedo is cable driven.
SWEET! What do you normally do at work? :D
Some beautiful work! I bet you could fabricate a gas tank that would put Rock Valley to shame, and they build one heck of a gas tank!
Pugsy, I'm not one to butt right in, but I have to say. I have been reading you project and checkin out the pictures. That is one sweet rig ! Done really nice. Smooth and clean.
And the metal work youve done , wow!
Nice Job Man !
Unplug an injector. To check for injector operation take your test light to ground and probe either terminal with the key on. One side should have B+. Now go to the other terminal with your test light to B+ and crank the engine. Observe the light and see if it blinks.
Check for spark directly out of the coil.
Verify fuel pressure. These are your 1st quick basic checks.
Unplug an injector. To check for injector operation take your test light to ground and probe either terminal with the key on. One side should have B+.
You should never have a spec on a gm engine ATDC.
Did you check your fuel pressure? Do you have a scan tool?
Fuel Gauge: Bottom of this page, it mounts where the gauge hooks up normally. http://hotrodlane.cc/08%20catalog/page%2062.pdf
Did you wire in a light to the diagnotics (psuedo Check engine light)?
What happens when you punch it hard? I mean lay into it... Does it stumble really hard?
How far is that O2 sensor from the headers? If it is too far, you'll need a heated 02 possibly if it doesn't get hot enough. Does it smoke black or anything else odd?
How many lb. injectors are you running? Is it a stock setup from a 350 TPI originally? If you've modded the cam and gone with more flow inside that motor the stock donor 350 fuel pump won't keep up either. Need at least a 255 liter per hour. (If I'd read every shred of the post here I am sure you've addressed this already so my apologies if being redundant).
Make sure the EGR is closed and no put no vacuum to it. As a matter of fact cut a piece of gasket material to block off the bottom of the EGR where it bolts to the manifold so it doesn't work and see what it does. If the valve is hanging open it will RLS
- I had a custom PROM chip burned for MY application specifically - that included having a custom ground cam matched up to the PROM tuning as well.
-
- I had a custom PROM chip burned for MY application specifically - that included having a custom ground cam matched up to the PROM tuning as well.
-
I wonder if the donor vehicle may have had a custom chip in it??
Pugsy, advance your timing... bring it up to around 36° @ 3,000RPM. Yes RLS means what you said. What's your MAP voltage at idle when you backprobe the sensor? Yes it should be hooked to manifold vacuum. Did you put a vacuum gauge on it? Does the vacuum gauge read steady at idle?
The EGR solenoid has nothing to do with it. Keep the timing around 36° total. Make sure the egr valve isn't sticking open at all. Vacuum is still at 14inHg after you advanced the timing? What's your map voltage with the engine idling? If you didn't hook up the A.I.R. don't worry about it. I know this may sound stupid but double check your firing order carefully and that you installed the distributor correctly. Finally unplug the knock sensor and take it for a rip to see what it does.
Your vacuum is really low!
Do you have any vacuum leaks? Does it run different with the oil cap off?
You are absolutely 100 % positive your firing order is good no #5 and #7 crisscrossed?
Your exhaust isn't plugged?
Your valves are not too tight?
Your cam timing is correct?
One more thing to check - make sure the set timing connector is connected and has continuity from the ign module to the ecm
;D
Shhwwing! Did it stop raining yet?! Come on we wanna hear some more tire roasting stories!
Great job keeping with it guys. Some good ole do it yourself detective work. I hope this is it and you nailed it down Pugsy
vile, do you have the equipment to re-burn chips? well... what i mean i guess is to remap the chips. i have a rinky-dink burner from moat but i need a way to make the maps to burn into the chips.. did this make any sense at all?
Why such crappy mileage Pugsy? You should get around 17 with oyur set up I would say..
Right foot still a tad heavy maybe? Either way, its a lot better than I get in town. :o
I get 5-8 mpg in town...2.73 gears + bad modulator valve + slow moving town traffic = crap mileage. I regularly get stuck behind cars that are in a dead zone for speed for me..sitting in first gear running 25-30 mph at 3500-4k rpm for extended periods of time, or 45-50 mph in 2nd gear at 4k rpm.
Thought about dual exhaust or larger single exhaust? Not sure if it would help, but it might..
EGR solenoid won't change fuel economy. I can get you a solenoid tomorrow if you want.
I saw a bunch of places online that have them new http://www.amdish.com/ItemId/B000C805O6
Have u checked the junkyard? If you can't find one I can source you one for sure. I might even have one kickin around somewhere
I was referring to YOUR exhaust, have you thought about installing duals? I've already got dual 2.25" exhaust w/ cats and glasspacks on mine. Changing the modulator valve is a matter of me being lazy, its been like this since I bought it in late summer/early fall of last year.
My supply house has it in stock for $68 bucks. The Standard is cheaper but on back order
DANG that did bring it down!! What springs did you use?
Nice work..I woulda left the old stance myself, but to each their own. ;)
Pugsy lookin good man. That Solenoid hasn't shown up yet... I have the feeling he's gonna tell me it's factory backordered lol. I'll let you know for sure. BTW any Vacuum operated GM EGR solenoid should work.
i had my tbi dyno'd and it produced the 186hp
wouldnt you tpi setup blow a tbi away?
I'm sure you'll find its back ordered.
All the companies that are moving to China at the same time never considered if they would be able to complete all the orders or not. :P I'm finding more and more stuff back ordered all the time.