TCC switch:

[Stewart G Griffin]

PT.2

Can a non-lockup converter be used in a TH-350C?

[Captkaos]

PT.2

Can a non-lockup converter be used in a TH-350C?

No.

[eventhorizon66]

You can control the TCC by installing a toggle switch.  I did this for my 700R4.  For some reason, it locks up as early as 37 mph in fourth gear, under light throttle.  My engine really can't tolerate any load at this speed and rpm (about 1150).  So I flip the switch to open the circuit whenever I get stuck in traffic, forcing my TCC to remain disengaged, then flip it back when I'm cruising again.

Note: This is really just a band-aid fix.  The real issue I'll address at a later time, is why it engages so soon.  It should engage at about 45 (at which speed my engine seems to operate fine with the TCC locked).

[Stewart G Griffin]

i'm not actually trying to prevent lockup so much as i want to try other converters and i thought(perhaps mistakenly so) that there are no hi-po lockup converters.

So perhaps i need to re-phrase the question:

a) Are there any hi-stall converters that also lockup and/or compatable with the TH-350C?

b) Is there/are there ways to have a stock converter run near stall speed for long periods of time without cooking or damaging the converter?  For example at a traffic light.

Actually, this is stupid.  What i'm thinking is that since i got my other problem to the point where the engine WILL run ok at rpms above 800, i would just for now since i can't seem to solve the problem, just raise the idle to 800 or so and run it like that for now----until i manage to solve the problem.  Hence, my asking about stall speeds and whatnot. 

Maybe i'm just screwed and should just bite the bullet and buy a more recent vehicle for transportation.  (my cavalier is starting to act a little funny and the check engine light came on for a while today).

[VileZambonie]

What is it doing?

[Stewart G Griffin]

Well, nothing really;  It's just vibrating real bad at idle.  And then, today, the check engine light came on for about 15-30 secs and then went out.  So, i feel the prudent thing to do is to treat this car as if it could stop running at any time.

The real problem is if it stops running, i'm not sure how to fix it and i'm not 100% sure if anyone else can either.   The truck i don't want to drive until i take care of it's problem.

i'm thinking of getting a 96 or newer car this way if it breaks, i can just take it to the dealer---no more complex, neurotic, frustrating attempts at trying to fix it myself.

i can technically afford a newer car, but my hours at both of my jobs got cut big time (sound familiar?) so money is tight.  And i rather not operate tightly.

So now you can see my real problem.

[Skunksmash]

Kinda off topic but if you do decide to get a new car, i would go with a newer model toyota celica. It's the one i will be buying when i get a gas saver. This car would go a long way towards your MPG quest. I have done much research, and so far it would seem to be the best option for non-hybrids. It gets around 41 MPG highway, and 35 city. Of course there are others like this such as the volkswagon diesel car, but they cost to much. The Celica is the "best bang for the buck". You can get a 2000-2005 year celica from $5k-$10k. I would go for the '05 if possible as it would have the most revisions done to the vehicle if there was anything that needed revised. Not to mention that even as a newer maximum efficiency 4 banger, there are still things that can be done to improve MPG a little further. If you pulled out the whole bag of tricks you could probly get one up to around 44 MPG. That's far greater than anything you could ever hope to achieve with this older stuff. And probably a lot less of a headache.

[VileZambonie]

Well who owns one of these trucks for good fuel mileage? You should see the stuff the leading manufacturers have done to the ice to make them fuel efficient. As far as simplicity goes you can't get much easier than a chevy cavalier. You don't need to take it to the dealer to get it fixed. Does it only vibrate at idle? Does it have to be in gear?

[Stewart G Griffin]

1) Yes, we do tend to get off topic in my posts;  i tend to go off on tangents and tend to make mountains out hills etc.
a) i don't believe that a person has to go hondayota etc. for good mpg;  My cavalier gets 32 consistently.  If anyone digs toyota, then that is fine as they do make good cars.

2) Yes, it only vibrates at idle in and out of gear.  i did the paper clip thing and it flashed a code 24 and the service manual is saying faulty park/neutral switch.  If this does not cause the car to stop running, i'm not worried about it.  If, however, it prevents the car from starting, then i am worried about it.  i noticed that when i push the stick foward as far as i can (i'm not pressing the button in on the gear selector) without actually going into reverse then the vibration stops.

[Stewart G Griffin]

TCC pt. 3

Next question,  can a 200R4 be operated without a) the computer, b) without lockup feature or c) with the lockup feature but without any computer intervention as in the case of Mr. Horizon's 700 if, in fact, that is the case, which leads me to the next question:

2) Does the 700 trans need a computer to operate?

[frogman68]

Get a Manual transmission then no worries My Cavalier gets (havent verified) 38 hwy 32 city according to the sticker.
I can not wait till I get my truck done so I wont have to use the gas friendly car for my DD

[eventhorizon66]

Both the 700R4 and 200R4 transmissions use a TV (throttle valve) cable to communicate with the engine.  Neither use a computer to shift.  On the TBI vehicles with 700R4s, the TCC lockup was controlled by the ECM, but this can be retrofitted back to older non-electronic style.

[Stewart G Griffin]

1) yes, i actually am considering using a manual, but after you get beyond the lockup and the TV cable, auto's really aren't that complicated assuming they don't internally have a problem;  In that case, they are very complicated.  My solution would be to replace the trans.  We can do this cheaply and easily in the case of the TH-350.  The others, i'm not so sure.  i was asking about the 700 and 200R4 because some of the vehicles i'm seeing for sale have these.

2) Basically what i'm trying to do, if i go this route, is to have my next vehicle as simple as possible with no frills whatsover.  i'm sort of like the Mr./(Ms.) Garrison/Woody Allen of cars and i'm sick of getting stressed out about maintenance and repair.

There are at least two possible solutions to this dilema:
1) To buy a brand new, or recent (within 5 models years) car/and/or get a 96 or newer car because they have OBD2.  And then, if there are any problems simply take it to the dealer.  Simple and no stress.

2) To get a used RWD Gm car/truck----73 up to about 87-90ish and take out (if so equipped) ALL the electronics and emmission controls whatsoever.  Actually, it would be even better if the car is stripped without a drivetrain;  This way, i can completely re-wire it myself and add whatever drivetrain i want--in this case, i feel the simpliest way to go would be SBC and TH-350.
As i learn more, i can add more convience items such as lockup feature, electric choke etc.

[frogman68]

How much more of no frills is a manual ? If your tach is working (mine broke 20k ago) you can upshift to your hearts content only thing you need to worry about is the clutch.. Lot less go wrong with a stick compared to a automatic. My cavalier is a 04 so its in your time frame..

[eventhorizon66]

If you want no frills, might I recommend a bicycle?