Author Topic: Concerning fastener torque:  (Read 6030 times)

Offline Stewart G Griffin

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Concerning fastener torque:
« on: January 26, 2009, 12:02:44 pm »
How would you determine the torque of a fastener that is already attached?  In other words, not all bolt torques are given in a manual, so i want to figure out what the torque of a bolt with no specification is.

Offline frogman68

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Re: Concerning fastener torque:
« Reply #1 on: January 26, 2009, 12:07:27 pm »
Use a needle torque wrench when loosening record the number when it breaks.

Or just use the German Method

Gutten Tight :)

Offline eventhorizon66

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Re: Concerning fastener torque:
« Reply #2 on: January 26, 2009, 12:08:41 pm »
If the bolt has been there a while and has been exposed to heat, oil, corrosion, this will be almost impossible to do accurately.  All critical fasteners for any vehicle should have a specified torque.  If it's not critical consider the application and use your best judgement.  "Good and tight, but not too tight" has always served me well.
'85 C10 SWB 350 700R4 TKO600

Offline ccz145a

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Re: Concerning fastener torque:
« Reply #3 on: January 26, 2009, 02:49:03 pm »
ask vile
1975 C10 Silverado LWB, 454CID, TH400, 10bolt 3.42
11MPG Downhill w/tailwind (but there ain't no hills here)

Offline eventhorizon66

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Re: Concerning fastener torque:
« Reply #4 on: January 26, 2009, 03:13:01 pm »
ask vile

LOL, well I thought that was just "understood."  Everything else is a last resort.
'85 C10 SWB 350 700R4 TKO600

Offline Blazin

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Re: Concerning fastener torque:
« Reply #5 on: January 26, 2009, 05:41:05 pm »
If you look around on line, I would be willing to bet you could find a machinist hand book that gives torque specs for all bolt sizes.
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Offline VileZambonie

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Re: Concerning fastener torque:
« Reply #6 on: January 26, 2009, 05:51:09 pm »
lol Here, this is out of our student text book:

What exactly are you looking for the spec on?

FASTENERS
Fasteners are those things used to secure or hold parts of
something together. Many types and sizes of fasteners are
used by the automotive industry. Each fastener is designed
for a specific purpose and condition. One type of fastener
most commonly used is the threaded fastener. Threaded
fasteners include bolts, nuts, screws, and similar items
that allow a technician to install or remove parts easily

Threaded fasteners are available in many sizes, designs,
and threads. The threads can be either cut or rolled
into the fastener. Rolled threads are 30% stronger than
cut threads. They also offer better fatigue resistance because
there are no sharp notches to create stress points.

Fasteners are made to Imperial or metric measurements.
There are four classifications for the threads of Imperial
fasteners: Unified National Coarse (UNC), Unified National
Fine (UNF), Unified National Extrafine (UNEF),
and Unified National Pipe Thread (UNPT or NPT). Metric
fasteners are also available in fine and coarse threads.
Coarse threads are used for general-purpose work, especially
where rapid assembly and disassembly is required.
Fine-threaded fasteners are used where greater
holding force is necessary. They are also used where
greater resistance to vibration is desired.
Bolts have a head on one end and threads on the other.
Bolts are identified by defining the head size, shank diameter,
thread pitch, length and its grade.
Bolts have a shoulder below the head and the threads do
not travel all the way from the head to the end of the bolt.
Cap screws are similar to bolts; however, cap screws
have no shoulder. The threads travel from the head to the
end of the bolt. It is important that you never use a cap
screw in place of a bolt.

Studs are rods with threads on both ends. Most often,
the threads on one end are coarse while the other end has
fine threads. One end of the stud is screwed into a
threaded bore. A hole in the part to be secured is fitted
over the stud and held in place with a nut that is screwed
over the stud. Studs are used when the clamping pressures
of a fine thread are needed and a bolt will not work.
If the material the stud is being screwed into is soft (such
as aluminum) or granular (such as cast iron), fine threads
will not withstand a great amount of pulling force on the
stud. Therefore, a coarse thread is used to secure the stud
in the work piece and a fine-threaded nut is used to secure
the other part to it. Doing this results in having the
clamping force of fine threads and the holding power of
coarse threads.
Nuts are used with other threaded fasteners when the
fastener is not threaded into a piece of work. Nuts of
many different designs are found on today’s cars.
The most common one is the hex nut, which is used
with studs and bolts and is tightened with a wrench.
Setscrews are used to prevent rotary motion between
two parts, such as a pulley and shaft. Setscrews are either
headless or have a square head. Headless setscrews require
an Allen wrench or screwdriver to loosen and
tighten them.
Machine screws are similar to cap screws but have a
flat point. Machine screws can have a round, flat, Torx®,
oval, or fillister head.
Self-tapping screws are used to fasten sheet-metal
parts or to join light metal, wood, or plastic parts together.
These screws form their own threads in the material they
are screwed into.
Bolt Identification
The bolt head is used to loosen and tighten the bolt. A
socket or wrench fits over the head and is used to screw
the bolt in or out. The size of the bolt head varies with the
diameter of the bolt and is available in Imperial and
metric wrench sizes. Many confuse the size of the head
with the size of the bolt. The size of a bolt is determined
by the diameter of its shank. The size of the bolt head determines
what size wrench is required to screw it. Table
5–1 lists the most common bolt head sizes. Notice that
the sizes are listed as fractions of an inch or as millimeters.
Bolt diameter is the measurement across the major diameter
of the threaded area or across the bolt shank. The
length of a bolt is measured from the bottom surface of
the head to the end of the threads.
The thread pitch of a bolt in the Imperial system is determined
by the number of threads that are in one inch
of the threaded bolt length and is expressed in number of
threads per inch. A UNF bolt with a 3⁄8-inch (9.54 mm)
diameter would be a 3⁄8 × 24 bolt. It would have 24
threads per inch. Likewise a 3⁄8-inch (9.54 mm) UNC bolt
would be called a 3⁄8 × 16.
The distance, in millimeters, between two adjacent
threads determines the thread pitch in the metric system.
This distance will vary between 1.0 and 2.0, and depends
on the diameter of the bolt. The lower the number, the
closer the threads are placed and the finer the threads are.
The bolt’s tensile strength, or grade, is the amount of
stress or stretch it is able to withstand before it breaks.
The type of material the bolt is made of and the diameter
of the bolt determines its grade. In the Imperial system,
the tensile strength of a bolt is identified by the
number of radial lines (grade marks) on the bolt’s head.
More lines mean higher tensile strength.
Count the number of lines and add two to determine the
grade of a bolt.
A property class number on the bolt head identifies
the grade of metric bolts. This numerical identification is
comprised of two numbers. The first number represents
the tensile strength of the bolt. The higher the number,
the greater the tensile strength. The second number rep-
resents the yield strength of the bolt. This number represents
how much stress the bolt can take before it is unable
to return to its original shape without damage. The
second number represents a percentage rating. For example,
a 10.9 bolt has a tensile strength of 1,000 MPa
(145,000 psi) and a yield strength of 900 MPa (90% of
1,000). A 10.9 metric bolt is similar in strength to an SAE
grade 8 bolt.
Nuts are graded to match their respective bolts (Table
5–2). For example, a grade 8 nut must be used with a
grade 8 bolt. If a grade 5 nut were used, a grade 5 connection
would result. Grade 8 and critical applications require
the use of fully hardened flat washers. These will
not dish out when torqued, as soft washers will.

Bolt heads can pop off because of fillet damage. The
fillet is the smooth curve where the shank flows into the
bolt head (Figure 5–6). Scratches in this area introduce
stress to the bolt head, causing failure. Removing any
burrs around the edges of holes can protect the bolt head.
It is also a good practice to place flat washers with their
rounded, punched side against the bolt head and their
sharp side to the work surface.
Fatigue breaks are the most common type of bolt failure.
A bolt becomes fatigued from working back and
forth when it is too loose. Undertightening the bolt causes
this problem. Bolts can also be broken or damaged by
overtightening, being forced into a nonmatching thread,
or bottoming out, which happens when the bolt is too
long.
Tightening Bolts
Any fastener is near worthless if it is not as tight as it
should be. When a bolt is properly tightened, it will be
“spring loaded” against the part it is holding. This spring
effect is caused by the stretch of the bolt when it is tightened.
Normally a properly tightened bolt is stretched to
70% of its elastic limit. The elastic limit of a bolt is that
point of stretch from which the bolt will not return to its
original shape when it is loosened. Not only will an overtightened
or stretched bolt not have sufficient clamping
force, it will also have distorted threads. The stretched
threads will make it more difficult to screw and unscrew
the bolt or a nut on the bolt.
Washers
Many different types of washers are used with fasteners.
The type of washer it is defines the purpose of the washer.
Flat washers are used to spread out the load of tightening
a nut or bolt. This stops the bolt head or nut from digging
into the surface as it is tightened. Soft, flat washers,
sometimes called compression washers, are also used to
spread the load of tightening and help seal one compo-
nent to another. Copper washers are often used with oil
pan bolts to help seal the pan to the engine block.
Lock washers are used to lock the head of a bolt or
nut to the work piece to keep it from coming loose and
to prevent damage to softer metal parts.
Thread Lubricants and Sealants
Often manufacturers recommend that the threads of a
bolt or stud be coated with a sealant or lubricant. The
most commonly used lubricant is antiseize compound.
Antiseize compound is used where a bolt might become
difficult to remove after a period of time, for example in
an aluminum engine block. Thread lubricants introduce
the possibility of a hydrostatic lock, where oil is trapped
in a blind hole. When the bolt contacts the oil, it cannot
compress it; therefore the bolt cannot be properly tightened
and a cracked part may result.
Thread sealants are used on bolts that are tightened
into an oil cavity or coolant passage. The sealant prevents
the liquid from seeping past the threads. Another commonly
used thread chemical, called threadlocker,
prevents a bolt from working loose as the engine or
another part vibrates.

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74 GMC, 75 K5, 84 GMC, 85 K20, 86 k20, 79 K10

Offline Stewart G Griffin

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Re: Concerning fastener torque:
« Reply #7 on: January 26, 2009, 07:33:06 pm »
Well actually i'm wanting to know the torque on the bolts that attach the fender to the cab and radiator support.  According the service manual there are only 6 on each side but it didn't list any torque readings.


i'm wanting to know this because of my next wish/project.  (see body section).  i'm mainly concerned that if i don't put them on tight enough, they may rattle loose.  Secondly, are these bolts even designed to be taken apart and put back together on a regular basis----i'm concerned about posible striping.


Offline VileZambonie

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Re: Concerning fastener torque:
« Reply #8 on: January 26, 2009, 07:44:16 pm »
Odds are you won't even get a torque wrench on half the bolts. Goodntite
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                         /  _ _ _\_
              ⌠¯¯¯¯¯'   [☼===☼]
              `()_);-;()_)--o--)_)

74 GMC, 75 K5, 84 GMC, 85 K20, 86 k20, 79 K10

Offline Blazin

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Re: Concerning fastener torque:
« Reply #9 on: January 26, 2009, 08:57:02 pm »
A good quality 3/8"s air ratchet is perfect. Or by hand 3/8s" ratchet tight then a 1/4 to 1/2 turn. They wont rattle loose. I used never seize on allot of my body bolts, and the above method, and have never had one fall out yet.
As for reuse they will be fine. If you are concerned about it you can buy the blind nuts, and new body bolts. Not sure if Chris has them but I know Doorman among other fastener companies sell them.
Some people are like Slinkies. Not really good for anything, but they still bring a smile to your face when you push them down a flight of stairs