Author Topic: Steering Arm/Knuckle  (Read 24222 times)

Offline bmaier

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Steering Arm/Knuckle
« on: February 01, 2009, 01:17:53 am »
On my 79 K10 I have a 4" lift and found some play in the front end and found out ball joints and u-joints were shot and I decided to change 'em all out. I purchased a raised steering arm for lifted pickups from a buddy awhile and decided i might as well install that since I will be already workin on the front end.

Now here's my problem: I am having one heck of a time gettin' that steering knuckle broke free where the three nuts are. I've pounded on everything, soaked everything with PB Blaster for a week, pounded and heated some more and nothing will break loose. You guys have any ideas? I am stuck, literally  :P
Are you just gonna lay there and bleed or are you gonna cowboy up?

1979 Chevy Bonanza K10, Shortbox, 350/350, 4" lift, 35's
1979 Chevy Silverado C10, Shortbox, 305/350

Offline choptop

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Re: Steering Arm/Knuckle
« Reply #1 on: February 01, 2009, 08:56:08 am »
Man do I feel your pain here. That stupid knuckel arm was the worst part of my lift. I finally got an air hammer and working around the arm from the bottom up, I finally got it. A friend told me I should put an above spring steering kit so the axle wouldnt be so cluttered up visually. After I learned I would have to take that arm off again, I told him to hang it in his ear. Hopefully, someone has a trick, I know Im gonna have to do it again one of these day.
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Offline Antti

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Re: Steering Arm/Knuckle
« Reply #2 on: February 01, 2009, 10:27:23 am »
It was a big project for me too, to get that arm loose. You still have the cones in place? There's not even slightest hope to get the arm loose until the cones are off. Mine were so welded in with rust and time, that they looked to be like same part with the arm.

I had to cut deep grooves next to the studs with an angle grinder, so that about one third of each cone was cut off. Of course ground off some material of the studs too, and had to get new ones... Then I managed to hit the cones off, wasn't easy still.

If you do that, be aware that there will be a great amount of sparks, for there's a need to cut pretty deep. And try not to twist and brake the blade of the grinder while it's deep in the groove.

Offline bmaier

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Re: Steering Arm/Knuckle
« Reply #3 on: February 01, 2009, 12:56:49 pm »
Well I'm glad to see that I'm not the only one who's suffering lol.

And yes, the cones are still stuck in place. I'm gonna have to see if i can get ahold of an air hammer and give that a shot. I've also been wanting to buy a grinder and now this just gives me an excuse to buy one  :D
Are you just gonna lay there and bleed or are you gonna cowboy up?

1979 Chevy Bonanza K10, Shortbox, 350/350, 4" lift, 35's
1979 Chevy Silverado C10, Shortbox, 305/350

Offline JRConnieK10

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Re: Steering Arm/Knuckle
« Reply #4 on: February 01, 2009, 07:03:59 pm »
I think when I did mine the cones were so frozen in they had the thread of the stud imbeded in them I soaked them in lube and used a chisel and tapped them as to unscrew them once they came up a little used vise grips and twisted them out. slow process but worked well.
'85 K10 LWB 350/SM465
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Offline keller

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Re: Steering Arm/Knuckle
« Reply #5 on: February 06, 2009, 07:28:22 pm »
You can try to hit the cones down with s socket over the threads. It should lossen the rust in the threads to screw them out.
Good Luck

Offline bmaier

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Re: Steering Arm/Knuckle
« Reply #6 on: February 07, 2009, 01:32:37 am »
thanks guys for the ideas. i haven't had much time to work on it since i last posted but i am determined to work on it all weekend til it comes off.
Are you just gonna lay there and bleed or are you gonna cowboy up?

1979 Chevy Bonanza K10, Shortbox, 350/350, 4" lift, 35's
1979 Chevy Silverado C10, Shortbox, 305/350

Offline Irish_Alley

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Re: Steering Arm/Knuckle
« Reply #7 on: February 07, 2009, 04:05:08 am »
wish i remember how we took mine off but it was stuck on there i tried a good bit to get it off and a friend came over took a heavy hammer smacks the arm i forget if it was the actual arm or what but it fell right off
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Offline VileZambonie

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Re: Steering Arm/Knuckle
« Reply #8 on: February 07, 2009, 05:11:55 am »
Taking the steering arm off of the knuckle is a lot easier like this: Remove the nuts, soak it good with penetrating oil. Heat the area around the washers with a torch and smack the arm upward using a BFH around 3lbs. Remove the washers and the steering arm. 
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Offline bmaier

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Re: Steering Arm/Knuckle
« Reply #9 on: February 08, 2009, 07:17:34 pm »
well i finally got it off today. it took an angle grinder, torch, BFH, and a few swear words  :P. now i just need to remove the bolts from the steering knuckle which will probably be just as fun!
Are you just gonna lay there and bleed or are you gonna cowboy up?

1979 Chevy Bonanza K10, Shortbox, 350/350, 4" lift, 35's
1979 Chevy Silverado C10, Shortbox, 305/350

Offline mpeche923

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Re: Steering Arm/Knuckle
« Reply #10 on: March 13, 2009, 01:42:25 pm »
Hey guys......  Just something to add.  I have been on the "live chat" with Rough Country getting ready to purchase my 4" kit...  Anyway of course I said to BEN that i heard getting the steering arm off was a PITA, and did he have any advice.....   He said to me first use PB Blaster....  then he said contrary to what you might think after it penetrates take a 3lb hammer and hit down on the arm quite a few times.... he said that actually disloges the conical washers and makes getting the arm off easier....  Not sure if anyone has tried this method but he said he has done a bunch of these arms and that's the easiest method....

I will try it his way and see what happens....     anyone try it that way???

Thanks
Mike

Offline bmaier

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Re: Steering Arm/Knuckle
« Reply #11 on: March 14, 2009, 12:38:52 am »
i finally got the front end done couple weeks ago and i must thank you guys for all the advice and ideas and tips, it was all very helpful. the experience would've been a lot easier had i known the studs on the top of the steering knuckle were threaded into it. i was told be several different people the they were just pressed in so that was half the problem itself.

this was the first time i ever changed the balljoints on one of these 4wds and i must say it was a pretty fun and cool learning experience.

thanks again everyone.
Are you just gonna lay there and bleed or are you gonna cowboy up?

1979 Chevy Bonanza K10, Shortbox, 350/350, 4" lift, 35's
1979 Chevy Silverado C10, Shortbox, 305/350

Offline dirtmod0

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Re: Steering Arm/Knuckle
« Reply #12 on: March 15, 2009, 09:03:32 am »
I am a little late on this but this is how I got mine done. Heat up the cones and they will work up on the bolt and wam bam, well something like that. I tried heating up the arm and no luck so a buddy at work said to heat the cones and thats when they started to raise up and out.

Offline 75??? franken-trunk

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Re: Steering Arm/Knuckle
« Reply #13 on: March 22, 2009, 04:28:39 am »
i have done it about 15 times here is thee best way

1.) remove the 3 nuts holding on the old arm

2.) get your hands on a oxy. asc. torch and heat up the base of the arm so it dang near glows...

3.) get a big hammer or a sleage and hit the top of it a good 10 times really hard!!! careful of the studs tho...

4.) by now the cones should be lifted out a little due to the fact of the forces being aplied in the oppisate deriction of the cones tapper. now hit the arm from the bottom a few times then the top and repeat this about 6 times to spit the cones out a little (a air chizle works awesome to for that  ;D)

5.) now grab the cones with some pliers i like channle locks. and remove them.....

6.) now pull off the arm!!!!!

7.) now heres the hard part... put on your new one and your done.....   lol



            -it takes me about 15 mins to do so this way figured i would put that in here for our next troubled individule  ;)
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Offline dirtmod0

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Re: Steering Arm/Knuckle
« Reply #14 on: March 22, 2009, 03:10:12 pm »
i tried that way the first time but no luck ended having to drive to work and use the torch at work and got her really hot and finally came out. hard to drive with 4 inch lift and stock arm!!