Lift question

[bigfosty]

I purchased a six inch rough country lift for my truck, springs up front, add a leafs and blocks in the rear and I was wondering...

Is it a straight up install, or will the driveline need to be changed, brake lines, etc....?

Thanks for any insight.

P.S.- It's a 1975 Chevy K-10

[dirtmod0]

basically a straight install. You should have a brake line extension that bolts to the rear cover bolt hole. You may also have to do something with your parking brake cable as well, mine is coming off tonight limiting travel. my heckathorn shocks wont fit on my lower bracket on diff. housing gonna have to grind the mount a little.

80 k10 4 inch rough country

[Blazin]

Personal opinion, get the longer stainless steel braided brake lines.

[levisjohnson]

I agree with Blazin on the braided lines

[bigfosty]

I was planning on doing the brake lines anyway, but it might have to wait a while after I get the lift on. The driveline should be fine though?

Thanks guys.

[VileZambonie]

Ususally I drop the transfer case down an inch. Check your driveline angles and driveshaft lengths too.

[oldwhity]

Hopefully it came with a steering or pitman arm.

[bigfosty]

It did come with a pitman arm.

How do I drop the transfer case?

[BigHemi353]

where is the best place to buy the extended stainless braided brake lines? i have an 86 3/4 and its getting a 6in. thanks, Andy

[Irish_Alley]

i got mine from roughcountry.com but you can go to sumit  jegs

[Antti]

Yes, you MIGHT get away with it by lowering the transfer case. I've heard that some trucks have sleeves for the transfer case crossmember bolts inside the frame rails, that you can put between the crossmember and the frame rail. Mine didn't, so I did it this way (the third photo):
http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php?topic=10699.0

I think that solid block, through which the both bolts would go, would be a lot better. And I wouldn't go with much greater drop either, since dropping the crossmember twists the engine mounts, and puts the eng, trans and transfer case  in a funny angle.
Your front drive shaft can still be too short after the drop, it depends on the truck.

By the way, if you get new brake lines, I can recommend to swap bleeders to the ones w/ ball valves at the same time. I got Russel Performance Speed Bleeders, and bled the brake fluid system all by myself. Much, much easier way than the traditional...

Brake line fitting and bleeder threads changed around '77-'78 from imperial to metric. Mine is a '78, has already a corporate 10 bolt front axle, but it's still with inch-threads. Also, the 5/16" or M8 bleeders at the rear are so close to same, that if you check which threads you have, do it at the front axle (3/8" vs. M10). This was just info if anyone with same age truck than mine is reading, if you have '75 or '86 it's pretty obvious which threads you have...