New guy with a New truck and old Q probably--

[Fast_suv]

New guy with a New truck and old Q probably--

Hey all,
First off, GREAT site.

I Picked up a 1976 chevy K10 PU two weekends ago with a fresh 350 with a extremely mild comp cam in it and the runs well. it has the 6" Tuff Country lift on it with the steering kit as well. Its sitting on a set of 16/35/15lt Swamper Boggers and nice set of polished deep wheels.

Now other than that I am learning as much as fast as i can and this site has been great so far. I have rewired all the gauges (that you to this site) and got allot of other information.

So like I said this is my first lifted vehicle; my first carb'ed vehicle; and first 73-87 PU.

so lets start...

1) I have identified my transfer case as the N02 but my not sure what position is what on the shifter in the cab. (3 spd manual tranny)
2) I have a 44 front axle, the tube coming off the top if just hanging , should it be attached to anything?
3) I keep reading about Suspension Blocks, what are they and how do i know if that's what i have?
4) It has a 1406 edelbrock carburetor, on the left side is a little black zip tie near what i think is the choke and no wires running to it. Is that right?
5) Anything i should check before driving the truck allot? safety or reliability concerns??

Thanks guys

Jeff

[4x4orbust]

on the carb, the big black thing is the electric choke.   the zip tie, i'm not sure.  probably to hold the choke in a certain position?? not sure if that is right or not......

the hose under the truck seems to be the vent hose for the axle.   the top of that hose should be attached to the crossmember right above or on the frame somewhere.   

on the transfer case, you're shifter looks like mine, but i have a np205, mine goes (i think) from top to bottom:

4L
N
2H
4H

not sure what the n02 is...


suspension blocks are a method for lifting the rear of the truck.  they are put in between the axle perches and the leaf springs. 

check all the brakes, make sure you can stop.   all steering parts  are tight,  and drive away.   that's a nice truck you got there,  welcome to the site, enjoy the wealth of info!!!

[choptop]

That is a cool looking truck. Welcome from West Texas. The tube off of the axle is the vent It needs to be lengthened and tied up to the frame

[Lt.Del]

I love the title of the thread, 'new truck, old carb'.  So you think the carb is old and truck is not? Or, if the truck is new to you, isn't the carb as well? 
I know, I'm being picky.   Nice truck by the way.

[Prong]

To get your choke operating, all you need to do is supply a 12v Ignition hot wire to one spade, and a ground wire to the other spade. For the ground, I just use a short piece of wire grounded to one of the 3 choke body screws. Your T Case shoud be a NP205.

[Fast_suv]

yeah, i meant np205...

When ever I'm not in 4wd and i try to put it in the position 2H where you guys are saying the truck doesnt go anywhere.
The dude i got it from said to leave it all the way up (looking like 4L) and if i do truck seems to drive ok... kinda weird.

Ill try agin tonight to see if i am just missing 2H and hitting N or something....


But WOW thanks so far you guys rock...



On additional Q.
my Pass side front wheel is missing 3 of 6 lugs and when trying to remove the hud to replace the 3 i just couldnt break it free... any tricks?

[Lt.Del]

trying to remove the hud to replace the 3 i just couldnt break it free... any tricks?

get a pipe, about 3 to 4 feet long and stick at least a 1/2' drive ratchet in it with the correct socket size (13/16"?).  That should give you the leverage you need.  I use a 3/4" drive myself for stubborn bolts/nuts, but not everyone has a set of those.

Wouldn't hurt to shoot it up with some penetrating oil before hand too. 

[Just-speed]

Hey Fast   Welcome.

They guys answered your questions and you should be good to go.  My brother has that same truck primer Gray just like yours. Nice truck.  

Listen the choke on that carb. The tie strap is being used to to keep the choke arm from moving. The guy you bought it from was not using the choke and hated that the choke would close part way after full throttle running. He put that there so he would not have to worry about it.  Do you need a choke?   Does the truck start right up and keep running?  If not you will want to hook the choke back up. Like the guys said just supply the 12v. left side is NEG right is 12v. YOu want the 12v to be keyed.  Need help figuring how to adjst it let us know.  

The vent tube you got covered.  

The shifter.  Keep in mind the transfer case shifter does not just go up and down. There is a slight side movement.  All the way up to the front of the truck is for 2H.  All the way down is 4L  nothing else needed......lol      Also your transfer case could be a pain like mine. Mine wont shift until from low to high until the driveshaft stops.    Enjoy your truck.

[Just-speed]

yeah, i meant np205...

When ever I'm not in 4wd and i try to put it in the position 2H where you guys are saying the truck doesnt go anywhere.
The dude i got it from said to leave it all the way up (looking like 4L) and if i do truck seems to drive ok... kinda weird.

Ill try agin tonight to see if i am just missing 2H and hitting N or something....


But WOW thanks so far you guys rock...



On additional Q.
my Pass side front wheel is missing 3 of 6 lugs and when trying to remove the hud to replace the 3 i just couldnt break it free... any tricks?

  Fast,  YOu mean trying to remove the inners of the HUB?  how much did you get out?    Careful there is a washer in there that can make you think that it is a nut and it is not. It is kinda thick.  There are only two nuts.  One washer is thick and all you have to do is pull it out. 

[Fast_suv]

I'll try again when it stops raining and take some pics.

The shifter.  Keep in mind the transfer case shifter does not just go up and down. There is a slight side movement.  All the way up to the front of the truck is for 2H.  All the way down is 4L  nothing else needed......lol      Also your transfer case could be a pain like mine. Mine wont shift until from low to high until the driveshaft stops.    Enjoy your truck.

That is just what mine does... Good to know...

Thanks a Ton guys..

Last Question i think....

Is there any Ladder bars/traction bars that will work with the 1/2 ton rear? i see Tuff sells them for the 3/4 ton....

[Just-speed]

What on earth would you want ladder bars for?   4x4 dont need ladder bars.

You getting wheel hop?    Lets look at something else as the problem. 

[Fast_suv]

if i dont start out of first really slowly the back end bounces like crazy..

My buddies 2003 F250 with about an 6" lift and 37" tires was doing that too so he had to add them... if you have any other suggestions of what to look into that would be awesome... Like i said my first lifted truck...

[Just-speed]

Well bro you should look at a few things.   Are the Tires Bald? Is there anything in the bed.  Does it have air shocks?  There has to be a good reason for the wheel hop.  Its not a light truck. 

[oldwhity]

Welcome from Maryland! My 81 gets a little wheel hop but only in reverse. I don't use reverse a whole lot so it doesn't annoy me enough to figure out why.

[VileZambonie]

I would check the torque on your springs and u-bolts and check the shocks. If they check out ok check your trans mount and driveline angles.