Panel bond adhesive

[VileZambonie]

What do you body experts recommend for panel bond adhesive for a tailgate skin?

[HAULIN IT]

Vile, Is this a "flat panel" at the edges or does this part have lips that need folded over? This can dictate what my thoughts would be. I've been very happy with Fusor products over the years. There are several versions of drying (working) time. For a hobby item I would use a slower version so you can position the part & not worry about the stuff going off on you. There are several respected companies & really I'm not sure one is better than another. Give me a little more info & I can get you parts numbers, ect. Lorne
 

[VileZambonie]

Thanks for the reply Lorne. I ended up picking up 3m panel bond 8115 since my buddy has the gun for it. I picked up a used 1987 gate that was straight and dent free with factory paint on it still. I stripped it bare and put a handle flip on it. For this gate I decided to go with a half skin and use the adhesive over welding to avoid warpage. This truck is gonna be black so I want it as straight as can be. I read the instructions but any other tips are welcomed.

[HAULIN IT]

Vile, I'm concerned about a "Ghost line" at the top of the new panel (especially being Black) where the edge meets the gate. The adhesive works well, however the difference in the gate, glue & skin make-up, make the likelyhood you will see it. I'm not talking cracking, just a faint line following the new skin, I see this on most glued panels where a seam has been made, especially where the sun can beat on it. The glue insulates the metal on either side & the filler/primer, ect. then reacts differently at that area. This may show up before you ever drive the truck or it may take a season or so, but I'd expect it to happen.
 My suggestion would be to make the seam as straight as possible & (hopefully there is enough metal) just to the lower side of the bodyline. I can't tell in the photo...does the skin go to the top of the top bodyline?
 Grind the skin to a taper on the topside BEFORE you glue it (the heat from grinding effects the glue somewhat). 
 The spots that seem to workout the best (ghostline wise) are down low or buried under a 1/8" of Duraglas or similar product, the expansion difference doesn't seem to show though the fiberglass filler near as much. In you case...I don't see any simple way around it. Good Luck, Lorne           

[VileZambonie]

The seam is dead on the body line. I spent a lot of time prepping the gate and the new panel. Once I was done I primed everything and stripped where the bond would be applied. I then laid masking tape over the areas that I wanted the adhesive and reprimed and painted. Then I peeled the tape and applied the adhesive to both panels, and progressively clamped it down. So far it looks mint. I will post pix soon so you can see how it turned out. I was very unhappy with the weld in. Even with takin all precaustions it still looked wavy. After tons of work I still wasn't happy so I decided to try this method. We'll see in tomorrow how the final result is. Thanks for your input Lorne

[Blazin]

I to use the Fusor bond. have only used it a dozen or so times but have had God results with it. I have seen panels over time show a ghost line or shadow looking line.

[SmokeShow]

what was the verdict??? 

[VileZambonie]

http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php?topic=7175.105

[SmokeShow]

WOW! you have a sweet truck coming together there with more work into it than I can fathom!  Kudos bro!


What color is it going to be or do you even know yet?!?!

[VileZambonie]

Black

Thanks

You have no idea how many hours and dollars are into this thing

[necromonger]

check this out.

http://www.eastwood.com/autobody/panel-install/ew-no-weld-panel-repair-kit.html