Feather Fill

[VileZambonie]

What do you body men think of feather fill? I was gonna use it as my first primer coat.

[Blazin]

I used it years ago It worked good as a filler, but its polyester based. Allot of paint reps over the years have told me it attracts moisture because it is polester based. I tend to believe them as my boss from way back when I started out used it on his 65 GT350 Shelby replica. He wet sanded the Feather Fill, then a few days later painted the car. Within several days we started noticing little tiny pin holes all through the paint.
I would use a 2K urethane primer myself.

[VileZambonie]

That's what I bought but my buddy owns a body shop and said I should use feather fill.

[80stepsideguy]

I was always told feather fill is good for fiberglass cars like kit  cars and corvettes.  Vile , look into this stuff i heard its pretty good and not that expensive...

http://www.smartshoppersinc.com/AutomotiveFinishes/Clausen_Primer.html


thanks
pat

[Blazin]

I have had good luck with this stuff. Its a three part system, primer, reducer, & activator.
http://www.azautobodysupply.com/maxfihibuurp.html
Always liked Mar Hyde's version of a 2K urethane primer but I can't get it around here anymore.
Make sure you use a self etching primer on any bare metal underneath them. If you only have some small bare areas you can get self etching primers in spray bomb. keeps from getting a gun dirty for a few little spots. Some companies make the urethane primers in spray bomb too. The activator is in a glass ball inside the can. When you shake it the ball breaks and activates the primer.
Transtar auto body products makes good stuff too.
http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/c-1061-transtar-paint-products.aspx
Stay away from any lacquer based primers.

[HAULIN IT]

Vile, Every bodyman has his "Must have" list of products & his "Never use" list. Feather Fill falls in the latter for me. It just seemed to cause problems for many people (I never personally used it). When I was in school, I had a work release & worked at a bodyshop supply co. & my brother has worked there for the last 21 years. Splitting & peeling in grooves & little bubbles were the common complaints & problems.
 Blazin' is right on about the polyester sucking moisture, if your using any poly filler...Make sure you have no real amount of moisture in the garage before it is sealed with epoxy or urethane. A dehumidifier is a good idea if your working in humid weather.
 My choice on lumpy or heavily worked metal or fiberglass would be either one of Two products made by the Clausen company. Rust Defender or Sandy, they are also polyester based.  They make a good, sound, hard base for paint. The instructions say it can be painted directly on, however, I never have or ever would. What I do is put it on the bare metal/bondo, full panels or to a bodyline only. Block it with 80 grit a bit & then onto 150, then 220. Followed by a couple coats of urethane primer, block & reapply as needed. If you need any more info, just ask, Lorne     
   

[VileZambonie]

good  info guys thanks. I am going to stick with the gallon of primer I already bought and see how that goes.

[Blazin]

What did you buy?

[xbanone]

Evercoat Featherfill is a surfacing primer, sands well for a nice smooth surface. You really need either a etch primer or epoxy primer for your base primer. I have been doing some expiermenting lately and I and liking this method:

Nason Epoxy Primer
Evercoat featherfill
sand to 400grt
Nason EP as a sealer
base
clear

If you do get Featherfill it requires a 1.8-2.2 tip to spray, I recomend 2.0 or larger, this stuff is thick. Also I think I'm going to switch to Southern Polyurethanes for the epxoy primer and clears. Supposedly they make great stuff.

[HAULIN IT]

Xbanone, Is this a recommended procedure from Evercoat? How long are you waiting to put the Featherfill over the Etching or Epoxy primer? Lorne

[xbanone]

I wouldn't call it a recomeded procedure from Evercoat, but it is recomended by painters I know. I waited 12 hours after the epoxy primer, sprayed the Evercoat, waited overnight again and sanded to 400. I don't think you have to wait that long, I was just working on it as I had time. I have found that it's very important to read the tech sheets with each product for drying times and product compatibility.

Here is the tech sheet for featherfill, it gives a one hour for dry to sand.

http://www.evercoat.com/imgs/pis/FEATHERFILLPIS.pdf

I really like this product, but i perfer to use epoxy as a bare metal adhesive primer, and featherfill as a surface primer. Check out the paint and body section over on 67-72chevytrucks.com. There is ALOT of info overthere about these products......and remember to read the tech sheets.

Brady