Best cam, before rough idle?

[eventhorizon66]

Thanks. Though i doubt i will ever be able to come across any vette heads for any kind of decent price.

You might be surprised.  Their are complete Corvette L98 pullout motors out there for the taking.  This would be the best way to get aluminum heads, roller cam, and fuel injection all in one (late model LSX swap, of course, would actually be the best way).

What about a roller cam for this type of desired application? I would like a full roller motor if i can...

I answered this question above.  I've heard Vile advise other members that same way.  Maybe you want to hear directly from him first though.  But if you really want a roller cam and have about $500 for retrofit lifters, go for it, as they certainly have advantages over flat tappet.  Just not enough performance gain to justify the cost in this size range, IMO.

[Skunksmash]

Oh. Well i just thought it would help with power and efficiency a little. All new motors are full roller, so i figured it would still help out. Although i must admit i am not sure what you mean about retrofitting or whatever. If i had new aluminum heads (i am set on aluminum) then they should not need anything special for roller setup, correct?

[eventhorizon66]

Although i must admit i am not sure what you mean about retrofitting or whatever.

These (or some like them) are the lifters you would need for a pre-'86 non-roller block: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-853-16/

These are for a '87-up roller block: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/NAL-12371042/

Notice the price difference.  Also, if you are retrofitting a roller cam into a pre-'86 block, you must use some sort of thrust button to control camshaft endplay or you'll have some erratic ignition timing.

If i had new aluminum heads (i am set on aluminum) then they should not need anything special for roller setup, correct?

Yes, there are different requirements if you are buying assembled aluminum heads.  Rollers need more spring pressure both on the seat and over the nose.  So make sure that the heads come with springs that match the requirements of your cam.

Unless you want to try your hand at some cheapie Pro Comp heads, I really like these: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EDL-60979/

[Skunksmash]

Well that raises another question for me. How can i determine if my 87's engine is one that came with rollers, and not flat tappet?

[eventhorizon66]

I'm sure there is someone who can decipher engine casting #'s, but the most sure fire way I can think of to determine which lifters you need would be to pull the intake manifold.  If if has a row of three raised drilled/tapped bosses down the center (to bolt down the sheet metal spider that retains the lifter guides) you have a roller block.

Also I might not have mentioned earlier, if you have a roller block the actual camshaft (and timing chain for that matter) is different.  Roller blocks use a bolt on plate to control cam thrust and the cam must have a "stepped" nose to accomodate this plate.  Retro-fit cams will have a nose like any other flat tappet cam and, like I mentioned earlier, require a thrust button.

[Skunksmash]

Hmm, so it's best to buy a roller block if you are building a roller motor. Anyone know where exactly i can find my engine's casting numbers? It is still in the truck, so please bear that in mind heh

[VileZambonie]

Look on the back of the block near the transmission on the drivers side.