1975 Jimmy 454 Magnum Project

[Mike Phillips]

1975 Jimmy 454 Magnum Project

And it begins.  Need the 700R4 Transmission out before noon tomorrow so I can take it to Dana Sniff's Tranny Shop during a trip to Irvine to pick up my engine.  Dana rebuilt the tranny about a year and a half ago and it works perfectly but I figure while I'm swapping engines I want to take it in and let him inspect it and insure everything is in perfect condition.

I put the engine on CraigsList for the last 3 weeks or so and received lots of calls but no buyers. So I changed the oil and filter and then took her for one more small-block  ride to cycle the new oil and now it's time for a little metal surgery.




My home for the next few days... (Upstairs)



Wall to wall cardboard... (Downstairs)



I pick up the new motor tomorrow but won't be able to remove the small block till this coming Sunday.  This is going to be a fun project; not sure about the rest of you guys but after a hard days work I find it very relaxing to work on old-school Detroit Iron.  Nothing's that complicated and with about half a dozen standard wrenches you can take just about anything apart and then later put it back together again.


First things first, disconnect the battery...




Next, remove the front driveline (Be sure to chock the wheels first)


Then remove the rear driveline



To make re-assemble faster and more Bubba-Proof place nuts and bolts from specific components together in a zip-lock baggie and include a note as to where they go.
(I usually just tell myself I'll remember and then when I go to assemble everything I forget)




Try to keep everything organized and clean.



Bellhousing bolts can be a pain to get to on some cars but on this Jimmy they're actually pretty easy to get to with a couple extensions and a wobbly.

[GoatBeard]

I love your truck!  I'm gonna use this thread as a guide for doing mine, so chronicle it well!  LOL   

[Mike Phillips]

Transmission and T-case came out without a hitch, tranny is at the tranny shop t-case is just going to get cleaned up and re-installed.






Here's Black Beauty...



This is what the engine was at one time going into...



I'm guessing the guy that assembled this put it at top dead center on the firing stroke in preparation to install the distributor.   





Both sides of the block have this fitting?  Not sure what it is?



Never seen a freeze plug with this doohickey in it?



Timing Chain Cover, appears to be some kind of composite?



One piece rear seal, I'm guessing this is how it's supposed to look.

[ccz145a]

Does it have provisions for mechanical fuel pump on pass side and shift pivot on driver's side?

If not, you have a genV block. if so it is genVI.

[Mike Phillips]

Does it have provisions for mechanical fuel pump on pass side and shift pivot on driver's side?

If not, you have a genV block. if so it is genVI.

Was told it's a Gen VI block and you're correct, there's no provision for a mechanical fuel pump or a shift pivot on the driver's side of the block.  It's actually the engine in the link below only it's been bored 30 over and it's supposed to have a little hotter cam than what came in the boat stock.

link removed per vendor request


Next up the old 350 is coming out tonight after I get off work.

 

[eventhorizon66]

Those are knock sensors on either side of the block (screwed into the water jacket).

[Captkaos]

The doohickey in the freezeplug is what the machine shop put on it for "tracking" purposes.
The thing in the block appears to be the water outlet for the boat setup.

[VileZambonie]

The capsule in the core plug will burst if overheated voiding your warranty.

Like event said, knock sensor

[exilous]

i didnt think it bursts i thought it just melts...never saw it happen so i dont really know.

[VileZambonie]

Once they heat up they melt. AKA the tabs burst indicating overheating.

[Mike Phillips]

Removed the 350 small block on Sunday and cleaned the engine compartment.


































Picked up an Edelbrock Air Gap intake off of Craigslist for $150.00 and some Ansen valve covers off Craigslist for $100.00 and some Block Hugger Headers too.  Now it's starting to look like a motor.




Just won this carburetor on eBay for $200.00


Talked to my engine builder back in Oregon and he said it's not the best of the best but for my application and $200.00 it will work fine.

Next up we're going to prep the engine compartment for paint and then paint it so it can dry all day Thursday and Friday and then Saturday the motor is going in.

[Grover 1]

Just curious, you mentioned your engine builder is in Oregon.  I'm only 20 Miles from Portland could you let me know who the builder is?  Have you used him before?   
Thanks,
Mark

[ccz145a]

Mike, you have some seriously low-profile tires!

[Mike Phillips]

Just curious, you mentioned your engine builder is in Oregon.  I'm only 20 Miles from Portland could you let me know who the builder is?  Have you used him before?   
Thanks,
Mark

Tim Briggs is my engine builder in Oregon and he's one of the best.  He used to run a shop with Everett Hatch and most gear heads in Oregon have heard f "Hatch Engines".  He's building a new shop in Eastern Oregon so he's quite a ways from you and unless you're wanting to build a racing engine you can probably find a quality shop local for your needs.  I've known Tim since about 1980 and he's built 3-4 engines for me so he never cares if I call him and ask for tech advice.

[Mike Phillips]

***Update***

Engine compartment is painted and dry, came out very nice.  Engine is ready to go in tomorrow!

Quick question, do I need the Knock Sensors?  I'm not sure why I need them or even what they're for?

Was thinking about removing them and installing threaded plugs.

Suggestions?