what oil for 1st start up?

[screamin86]

Well im gona fire up my new motor this weekend and do the cam brake in and was wondering what oil to run? In the past ive ran a non detergent 30wt but ive heard talk about running rottela 30wt for the extra zinc content. Anyone got any sugetlstions?

[Donut]

When I did my cam change, I ran Rotella and a bottle of Lucas engine break in additive.  I've read that Valvoline racing oil and Royal Purple are also good.
I'm sure some of the engine experts will chime in.

[screamin86]

Where can i get that aditive? Royal purole is good oil but its synthetic and you dont want that on a first fire up

[VileZambonie]

http://www.parts123.com/parts123/yb.dll?parta~dyndetail~Z5Z5Z50000050f~Z5Z5Z5ABXWZ~P9.95~~~~~~~F

[Skunksmash]

Royal purple sells some oil specifically for breaking motors in, called "Royal Purple Break in Oil". I think the break in period is very short though. On all those car shows they say it's only a few minutes. But who knows.

[Captkaos]

Get what Vile posted if you are talking old school non roller cam.

[screamin86]

I went today and got 5qt of non detergent 30wt.and a bottle of that zinc additive

[Hotrod Steve]

Hi  this the info I used to break in my airplane engine.
Just finished a 350 for my truck broke it the same way, runs great.



A new, rebuilt, or overhauled engine should receive the same start, warm-up, and preflight checks as any other engine. There are some aircraft owners and pilots who would prefer to use low power settings for cruise during the break-in period. This is not recommended. A good break-in requires that the piston rings expand sufficiently to seat with the cylinder walls during the engine break-in period. This seating of the ring with the cylinder wall will
only occur when pressures inside the cylinder are great enough to cause expansion of the piston rings. Pressures in the cylinder only become great enough for a good break-in when power settings above 65% are used.
Full power for takeoff and climb during the break-in period is not harmful; it is beneficial, although engine temperatures should be monitored closely to insure that overheating does not occur. Cruise power settings above 65%, and preferably in the 70% to 75% of rated power range should be used to achieve a good engine break-in.
It should be remembered that if the new or rebuilt engine is normally aspirated (nonturbocharged), it will be necessary to cruise at the lower altitudes to obtain the required cruise power levels. Density altitudes in excess of 8000 feet (5000 feet is recommended) will not allow the engine to develop sufficient cruise power for a good break-in.
For those who still think that running the engine hard during break-in falls into the category of cruel and unusual punishment, there is one more argument for high power settings during engine break-in. The use of low power settings does not expand the piston rings enough, and a film of oil is left on the cylinder walls. The high temperatures in the combustion chamber will oxidize this oil film so that it creates a condition commonly known as glazing of the cylinder walls. When this happens, the ring break-in process stops, and excessive oil consumption frequently occurs. The bad news is that extensive glazing can only be corrected by removing the cylinders and rehoning the walls. This is expensive, and it is an expense that can be avoided by proper break in procedures.
To summarize, there are just a few items to remember about engine break-in: (1) If a preservative oil has been added by the aircraft manufacturer, drain it not later than the first 25 hours of operation; (2) Follow the engine manufacturers recommendation regarding the oil to be used for break-in and the period between changes; (3) Run the engine at high cruise power levels for best piston ring/cylinder wall mating; (4) Continue break in operation for 50 hours or until oil consumption stabilizes. These simple procedures should eliminate the possibility of cylinder wall glazing and should prepare the engine for a long and satisfactory service life.

[Jim Rockford]

rottela and a bottle of break in lube, change the oil and filter right after the cam break in is done. then drive it like you stole it useing good wix/napa/ a/c delco  oil filters, DO NOT USE FRAM they are junk. you want to keep the rings loaded, and try and down shift the first few times you come to a stop that also keeps a load on the rings, main thing you are doing when breaking in a engine  is seating the rings,  not the bearings or anything else, you don't want to keep a constant speed and you don't want to be idling alot  and don't drive long distances for the first few trips, let the engine heat up and cool down for a few cycles  and then change the oil again after 500 miles, then beat on it , if its gonna break, its gonna break if something was installed wrong whether your driving miss daisy or driving like you just robbed a bank, so don't be scared to run it. next oil change is 1500 miles and then after that you can go to your normal 3-5 k which ever you prefer.