gm engine 10066036

[2502]

this is the motor pulled from my truck that's been recently "filled" with water mysteriously. is it worth rebuilding, what would it typically cost me to do so? and does anyone know a reliable shop in the harrisburg pa area?

[malibu795]

this is what the number turned up on chevymaina.com
10066036 SBC 350 86-up 205hp Car & Truck 2 & 4-bolt Passenger stick 1-piece seal


most likely a roller motor as well.


rebuild... depend on what is wrong with the engine.. and how far os a rebuild you want to go.

wear items... bearins, rings, cam, timing chain, oil pump gaskets, can put you close to 400-500.00 by the time you get oil, coolant and misc stuff the breaks or loose

heads a valve job looking at another 200 if nothing needs replaced
bore the motor out..150.00-200.00
200-300 in pistons
balancing150-200.00
decking is 150.00

[Lt.Del]

send the block to get it magnafluxed...that'l tell you whether it is worth it....it'll tell you if there are cracks in block or whatever.

[2502]

well it was filled with water. they're telling me it's all fresh water and there's no rust so i didn't know if it was worht having rebuilt or to just buy another one somewhere.

[Irish_Alley]

fresh water? it's from the rad right? if so its not fresh lol. but it could be just as simple as a head gasket, were was the water at? cylinder or oil. if it was the cylinder it could be head gasket or heads cracked/warped if its in the oil it could just be the intake gasket blew out

[VileZambonie]

Rebuild it.

[2502]

fresh water? it's from the rad right? if so its not fresh lol. but it could be just as simple as a head gasket, were was the water at? cylinder or oil. if it was the cylinder it could be head gasket or heads cracked/warped if its in the oil it could just be the intake gasket blew out

it was sitting in the truck on the motor moutns. originally i had it wrapped in plastic and taped over and then a cover over the front end of the truck. there's no rad hooked up to it.

he told me it wasn't worth rebuilding because of all the water in there so i wasn't sure what to do. i mean we've flooded dirtbike motors and it's never that complicated to rebuild them so when it comes to trucks i understand there's a huge difference but why would this not be able to be rebuilt?

i'll go with the less expensive route, i always see stuff on craigslist but i was actually considering taking it to a machine shop and having a stroker built. this way i know exactly what's in it and there's nothign to question the next time a wave of bad luck with this thing hits me.

[hotrodpc]

Sorry to be butting in here. I have not been here in awhile. But, I am going to guess this guy is full of BS? If its fresh water, and no rust? Why can't it be rebuilt? The water had to have gotten in there somehow. No hood on the truck but the motor was wrapped?? Did you ever have a hard rain??? Maybe a spot you missed? Was the intake or carb on the motor?? I would not give up so easily if it were me. BTW, if my memory serves, this is an Heche en Mexico Gm Goodwrench motor and they really are not so bad from all I hear. I have one myself that I bought for $100 with a 700r4. Get this, the only reason it needs rebuilt and I got it so cheap, is the idiot I got it from left it sitting out in the weather and it filled up with "fresh rain water" then it say for a week and started to rust and seized. Easily fixed. I have it unsiezed by draining the water by turning it over on an engine stand. The put diesel fuel in the cylinders thru the spark plug holes and put the plugs back in and let it sit outside in the direct sunlight and get hot this summer. Turned the balancer with a pry bar about and inch every hour after it soaked in diesel for 2 days. About the 4th inch I moved it, that was it. The motor is free as can be and the rust broke loose. I am probably just going to do a hone and rering it since I took the heads off and their is no ridge to speak of and I can still see some crosshatching in the cylinders. That engine is a 4bolt main, with Powder metal rods and a 2 piece main seal. I'd sure look again into rebuilding it, just need to find out how it got water in it. Good Luck.

[hotrodpc]

BTW, this is likely what you have. GM Goodwrench Crate motor.

 

12499529 G.M. Performance Parts 290 H.P. 350 Crate Engine $2070

8.0:1 compression ratio.

290 HP @5100 rpm

326 ft. lbs of torque @ 3750 rpm

 ( These Numbers obtained with a Holley 600 CFM  Carb,1 3/4" headers , and an Edelbrock Performer intake part # 2101) (1 5/8" headers will work fine with this engine. the 1 3/4" headers listed above were dyno headers used for the test)

Block

 -part # 10066034, casting # 10066036 2 piece rear main seal 4 bolt main

Camshaft- Part#3896962 Hydralic Flat tappet

Intake Lift-.450"      Exhaust Lift-.460"


Intake Duration @ .050"- 222   Exhaust Duration @.050"- 222  Lobe Seperation-114

Cylinder Heads-  part # 14034808 casting #33417369

1.94" Intake valve , 1.50" Exhaust Valve 76cc Combustion Chamber 7 Bolt style Exhaust Flange


Standard 85' and prior intake manifold bolt pattern. Perimeter bolt style Valve Covers.


This head is very similar to the old #882 castings from the 1970's

 

[2502]

Sorry to be butting in here. I have not been here in awhile. But, I am going to guess this guy is full of BS? If its fresh water, and no rust? Why can't it be rebuilt? The water had to have gotten in there somehow. No hood on the truck but the motor was wrapped?? Did you ever have a hard rain??? Maybe a spot you missed? Was the intake or carb on the motor?? I would not give up so easily if it were me. BTW, if my memory serves, this is an Heche en Mexico Gm Goodwrench motor and they really are not so bad from all I hear. I have one myself that I bought for $100 with a 700r4. Get this, the only reason it needs rebuilt and I got it so cheap, is the idiot I got it from left it sitting out in the weather and it filled up with "fresh rain water" then it say for a week and started to rust and seized. Easily fixed. I have it unsiezed by draining the water by turning it over on an engine stand. The put diesel fuel in the cylinders thru the spark plug holes and put the plugs back in and let it sit outside in the direct sunlight and get hot this summer. Turned the balancer with a pry bar about and inch every hour after it soaked in diesel for 2 days. About the 4th inch I moved it, that was it. The motor is free as can be and the rust broke loose. I am probably just going to do a hone and rering it since I took the heads off and their is no ridge to speak of and I can still see some crosshatching in the cylinders. That engine is a 4bolt main, with Powder metal rods and a 2 piece main seal. I'd sure look again into rebuilding it, just need to find out how it got water in it. Good Luck.

no butt right on in...

the water i'm assuming is from the rain. but the truck was parked at my mother's house, and needless to say her husband and i have gone a few rounds over this truck not getting finished. so my guess is he may have run a hose in it just to be a douche. the carb and intake are both on it, the carb seems to be seized now, as well as my water pump.

i got the info when i googled it that it was the gm crate engine, which is what the previous owner told me it was. so i just didn't know whether to bother rebuilding it or find another one. if this was something "special" that i should be keeping or just look for another replacement. i heard this was a good engine but i keep getting conflicting opinions on whether to trash it or not...

[hotrodpc]

I hear you on the conflicting opinions. Seems to be a about a 50/50 split if they are good or not. So myself, I am going for the good ones because I know 2 people who personally bougth the engines also new, and that was years and years ago and they are still running today, one of them with over 200,000 miles on it. If it can do that, I'll tend to beleive the good side. Maybe not the best of a high performance build, but I would not be afraid to make a 6000rpm 375-400hp engine out of one. I have also heard the crank although cast, is Nodular iron, not just cast iron. Nodular cast is closest you will get to Forged but yet still be lighter in weight. But, I also thought all SBC cranks were Nodular. The trick as with any engine build, just be sure its balanced properly and I think it will hold together nicely. I have a feeling some of the people talking trash about it, are saying so maybe cuz its built in Mexico. I dunno, but I am going to be giving it a try. My machinist tells me they are not so bad and that he has seen some with a cracked head occasionally if it was overheated badly, but that does not suprise me a bit. If that is all he can complain about them, then I say they are workable.

[Captkaos]

Good is a relative term.  If you were building a drag motor that you were going to pump 1000's of dollars in they aren't good.

If you are building a mild street motor, there is nothing wrong with them, heck if it checks out ok, I would build a drag motor out of it also.

[hotrodpc]

I agree totally, I sure would not make it my squeeze motor or supercharged, but a mild cam and a few adders, I think would be fine.

[Captkaos]

I wouldn't think twice about putting a turbo on it.

[hotrodpc]

With some better heads I might too. I beleive those heads are prone to crack, and not sure they would handle the heat and pressure.