Ignition question

[talon]

Hi everybody,

I'm having a bit of a problem getting my 86 Jimmy (350) to start. It has been tough to start for several weeks now and once it did start it was missinig pretty badly. I just replaced plugs, wires, coil, and cap and now it wont start at all. It cranks but wont catch.

I did notice that what I *think* is the choke wire was disconnected but the only difference I get when it is plugged in is the choke light on the dash. It wont start with it disconnected or connected.

When I put the new cap and wires in, I started with the terminal 2 clockwise from the 'snout' of the cap (where the tach/batt connections go) and proceeded clockwise with 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2. Is that correct? I never moved the rotor while the cap was off... Does that sound like the correct place to have everything?

Any other thoughts? The PO has really hacked this truck up and I am at a loss as to what else to try.

[Captkaos]

I would put the engine on Top Dead center and verify you rotor is pointing to the terminal you put the #1 plug wire on, if you question the timing.   The firing order is correct.

[VileZambonie]

Why didn't you replace the rotor? I agree put it on tdcc and verify the rotor is pointing toward #1

[talon]

Rotor looked pretty good. I'm going to pick a new one up tomorrow and then do the TDC thing. I'll report what I find. I just got done replacing some REAL shoddy looking battery cables and tossed a new battery in as well. The more I dig into this thing, the more hack jobs I find that the PO did went he swapped the motor in.

[Lt.Del]

When I put the new cap and wires in, I started with the terminal 2 clockwise from the 'snout' of the cap (where the tach/batt connections go) and proceeded clockwise with 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2. Is that correct?

it doesnt matter where you start the #1 spark plug wire on your distributor cap.  Where mine is on my truck is going to be different from yours and your neighbor's etc..

What matters is that the rotor points to #1 spark plug wire (the plug that is closest to the radiator on driver's side) when #1 piston is at TDC.  Start the firing order at #1 at the 12 o'clock position, or the 3o'clock position, or the 9:30 position, it doesnt matter. BUT, ensure when the #1 piston is up, it isn't on the exhaust stroke.  The #1 piston goes up twice for each fire stroke.  When it is on the exhaust stroke, #6 will be at top dead center (180 degree difference).  When #1 is at TDC, that wire should have the rotor pointing to it, then time it.

  

[malibu795]

check postion..


also check your switchable hot to the coil on the HEI distibutor.. it will she "BAT" on the cap cover.. make sure the crimp on slide connection is good.. i have had those go bad/get loose ans reak all sorts of havoc.. and since you just had it removed for a rotor change/inspection... might have gotten fouled up....

me personally.. i run one 4ga wire to the starter and pull the other 2, 3, 4, etc wire up and run them with a 6-8gauge wire above the engine... gets them away from the headers..

i hook a wire into the starter solieniod wire  put a 3/8" fuel hose as sheilding and run it to the starter.. IMO make the starter MUCH easier to remove when ever.. pluss you can easily visiual inspection of your BAT hot wires to everything else...

get some white out.. clean off the balancer and paint the TDC grove.. also i would paint 0* on the timing tabe as well.. this will IMO make timing much easier.. notces on the timing tab are in 2* increments. esepecially on future timeing adjustements...

if you have a light that you can adjust advance.. you can bump up the * number and match the TDC mark on the balancer with the TDC mark on the timing tab.. makes it easiy for quick timing adjustments

as for ground..
i run
1 4 guage to the engine block
1 10 ga to the body
1 10 ga to the frame.

that covers 95% of the ground on the vehicle

[Marc]

Check where number one is as per above, and see if the choke is wired open, or stuck closed.  How cold is it where you are?  If the choke is open and it is cold out, it could be very difficult to start.  It should be closed when you check it.  Do you have a good spark? 

[talon]

Well its unseasonably cold here today (heck, it might even snow!) and I'm just wrapping up work. Gonna go turn on the heat in the garage and rope in a buddy to help me turn the motor over to TDC. Well, he'll probably do more standing around and drinking my beer...

I'll let everybody know how it goes.

[BOBS84]

Make sure you have spark .the pick up module in the distribitor can go bad.just A thought.

[Jim Rockford]

The engine in this truck I got would turn over fine  and act like it wanted to catch, I checked the dist and it was of, reset it and it was ran a little bit, but wouldn't rev high or idle and I found out why...

Timing chain was worn out so bad it slipped cam timing.

[malibu795]

dang jim been a while since i had seen one worn that bad....

hope you checked the vlv for contact..

[talon]

Well I got it going. Turned out ot be a faulty connector to the cap (the battery connection). While I was playing with all this, I found that the electrical wire for the choke was not connected. After hu nting around a bit, I found a dark green wire that runs in the area and was not connected. I can't find any other places it could connect other than the choke. When connected, I get a choke light on the dash, but it never goes out...

How do I check the choke for correct operation? I understand that the choke electrical wire should not be hot until the key is in the on position AND the engine is running. I believe this is controlled by some sort of oil pressure switch, but am not sure so any thoughts would be helpful.

Thanks!