Qjet question

[bobcooter]

I just moved my distbrutor vacum advance from my carb to manifold vacum and re adjusted the secondaries so they don't open up so fast and bog down the engine. Mine would actually kill the engine if you kept your foot in it. Anyway, now I need to replace the air horn gasket. It is just slowly seeping and getting the carb wet and dirty over a period of about 6 months. My question is: How much stuff comes off the carb when you remove the air horn? (choke pulloffs, acelerator pump actuator ...) Is there any thing that can fall down inside the engine or do I need to pull the carb first? It's a 79 C-20 with a 350 and M4ME.  I drive it daily and don't have a lot of time to spend on it right now, so not removing the carb would speed things up. Thanks,

[Captkaos]

The 4 bolts that hold it to the intake are going to have to be removed to get the Q-jet apart.  So you have to remove it to work on it.

[VileZambonie]

Yep, so just pull it and rebuild it. Get a couple cans of carb clean. It's not hard to do and a lot easier sitting in front of it on a bench.

[Stewart G Griffin]

Here's an ok video(s) showing how to rebuild a q-jet:

http://www.youtube.com/user/alpheus1975#p/u/6/us0mfq6q2KU

There are six videos in the series and i kind of wish i had seen these before i tried my rebuild, but ok videos nontheless.


NOTE: i have not had time to view all/any the videos to the end, but based on initial viewings, they seem ok.

[bobcooter]

You know what guy's I have another one on a 78 GMC in the back. I think I'll pull it and try to rebuild it. It's a little different looking from the one I'm running but I can compare them and see If there is a place to mount the solinoid for the A/C. There may already be one. It's a High Sierra that had factory A/C. Think it will work witout major surgery. My C-20 is my main vein and I can't be down long.
  Anything else I should know?
Pretty cool videos Stewart.

[HAULIN IT]

Guys, The back 2 bolts holding the carb on (with the cable bracket) can stay, just the front 2 go through the top portion.
 Bob, To be honest, if it just seeps a little & gets a little dirty over a half years time, try tightening the 2 front bolts & the top screws...spray it with carb cleaner & see how it does, by that description I'm not sure it's really worth fooling with.
 If your set on doing it, it's no big deal. Push the rolled pin on the accelerator arm in carefully until it lets the arm "pop"...rotate it out of the way. The small screw on the secondary hanger/rods needs removed, pull the hanger/rods up & out. Many have a screw on the side of the choke flap, remove it. Then the 2 front 1/2" headed bolts, the 7 (Phillips, straight or Torx) or so around perimeter, the 2 inside the choke flap & carefully lift the top off...once the brass tubes clear the gasket, rotate the Left side upward to remove the pull-off linkage from the secondary air door. The gasket has a slit to slide it out from under the power piston/rod assembly so it doesn't need to be removed. MAKE SURE the new gasket has the same holes as the old one (there are many similar, but not the same). Install the new gasket & put back together in reverse order. Any questions, just ask! Lorne

[bobcooter]

Thanks Lorne. My 84 year old Mother is really sick and living with my wife and me right now so between that and work I'm a little short on time. I'll try your advice and make sure everthing on top is all snugged up and spray it with carb cleaner and see what happens. It's more ugly than anything. It was wet (damp) and dirty when I bought the truck and rebuilt the engine. I was kind of on a budget when I did the rebuild so I just cleaned it up and stuck it back on. It runs fine. I cut and pasted your instructions to a folder I keep for future reference.  Thanks.