Rear disc Brakes

[78 Chevyrado]

Im totally fed up with the rear drum setup on my 78 3/4 ton.   Before I do anything else, I'm switching to rear discs.

I like the TSM kit and I'll get the eldorado E-Brake calipers.

http://tsmmfg.com/2630E.htm

Has anybody bought this particular kit, and if so what do you think of it?  are the brackets quality?

Also  for anybody with a disc brake conversion, did you have to use an add on proportioning valve for the rear or did the stocker work properly?   Should I get a different master cylinder than the stock one?  Also how did you connect up the E-Brake Cables?

I'm getting this in a week or two, before I even get tires....  those drums been giving me fits since I got the truck and I'm tired of em.  They suck to remove and you cand do anything to them while theyre on there.   They grab and lock up and squeal no matter what I've done and I've tried it all and the backing plates are good.  I'm ready to oil the dang shoes and forget em, so theyre going away.  those drums will make excellent grinder stands... 

That and I almost got hit head on by some dumb chick in a jeep driving on the phone with her left leg out the window...  she came right over there and those dang drums locked up.  so I'm done with em, I want discs.  Plus they'll look cooler in the new wheels.

thanks fellas!

[VileZambonie]

Well we can't help with your drum issues unless we see pix of the rear brakes but if everything is mint back there and they're locking up the problem is most likely the combination valve. So if you're converting to disc brakes and using a quick take up master you will need proportioning valves. You don't want a metering valve so get rid of the combination valve.

[78 Chevyrado]

Well we can't help with your drum issues unless we see pix of the rear brakes but if everything is mint back there and they're locking up the problem is most likely the combination valve. So if you're converting to disc brakes and using a quick take up master you will need proportioning valves. You don't want a metering valve so get rid of the combination valve.

The drums just suck, so I dont mess with it much.  if they slid on from the front, I'd mess with em, but im tires of messing with hubs and heavy drums all the time.  even before they got crappy, on rainy days they lock up for the first 4 miles.... unless i ride the brakes for 1 mile.  not good for a cold engine.  Also the right side locks up way before the left....  and i loosened it so much it couldnt possibly grab before the left but it does anyway.   its that one part thats driven me so insane i just want them gone.  i dont want em fixed, just upgraded.


Will one of those small one line valves work routed into the rear line?   If I lose the proportioning valve, I'll have to totally reline the whole truck.

Are there any disc/disc valves that'll bolt in.  id assume no since none of these trucks came disc/disc.

[uptonogood99]

I don't know which rear end you have, but if you have a 14 bolt full floater, the best set up is off a newer chevy p/u [2500hd or 3500

]. If it's not a full floater, take a look at a 2500 g van or 2500 non hd p/u, they  should work.  Also if you have the level propotioning valve on the rear [the one that is hooked up with a lever to the axle] you will want to remove this.

[gambit23435]

I've installed this same kit on my 79 K30 1ton. I like it a lot. The brakes are much better. I'm still working on the e-brake cable. I ordered 2 brake cables (RAYBESTOS Part #BC93415) from Rockauto and modified it to work. I picked up a new intermediate cable from NAPA. I also ordered a new intermediate equalizer to replace the cracked rusted one currently on my truck now. I just haven't had time to install it and adjust the e-brake tension.  I have driven the drum with the new disks and it stops much better and looks cooler.

Rob